Crimean peninsula- this is such a fertile place that it is good here even in winter. On the southern coast, even more, even snow practically does not fall and the temperature below +5 generally does not fall. In general, the subtropical climate makes this region favorable for visiting all year round.
Almost all resorts operate year-round. You can safely go to the Crimea even in the off-season, here you can heal your health and you can walk all year round. The air temperature is very comfortable in order to enjoy a trip to the sights, which at this time are not crowded, but are accessible, just like in summer. It's nice to see all the exhibits without haste and crowds.
Accommodation prices, starting from October, are reduced to the lowest level, so you can relax with your family on a budget. The main thing is to discuss the issue of heating in advance, even at the booking stage. Not all settlements have gas and not every new building has centralized heating. In order not to freeze in the apartment after walking through the humid air, take care of this issue in advance.
A tourist destination for celebrating the New Year and Christmas is rapidly developing here. More and more sanatoriums, tourist bases and mini-hotels began to offer good holiday tours with a decent entertainment program.
In winter, the Yalta embankment turns into a real theater, where the main action is a grandiose storm. You can watch the vicissitudes of nature for hours and not get tired of changing scenery, the main thing is not to get too close so as not to get wet.
Of the things you must definitely take a waterproof jacket and shoes, snow is a rare guest here, but precipitation still falls and they fall in the form of rain. Yes, that's right, rain - in winter this is another feature of the Crimea.
In the cold season, gulls and ducks swim very close to the embankments and enjoy treats with pleasure - bread and rolls.
In the Crimea, in February, trees begin to bloom, almonds blooming with a pink cloud - this is an amazing sight, very beautiful. Already in February, here you find yourself in early spring and you can bask under the first really hot rays of the sun.
by the most warm places considered settlements from Foros to Alushta, frosts and blizzards will not overtake here, the mountain bulk reliably protects from them. Small villages, however, are better not to choose for those people who do not like solitude, because as soon as the summer ends, they are empty, you will hardly meet anyone on the streets, and you will not want to walk along the unlit streets. Although, if you are a man of science, or a creative person and you want to complete your next creation in silence, then the winter Crimea will suit you perfectly!
On Mount Ai-Petri, you can ski, snowboard and sled almost all winter, although there may be no snow at all on the coast. Ai-Petri offers gorgeous panoramas and a well-developed infrastructure. Crimeans dream that over time there will be tracks, at least remotely similar to Sochi.
In the cold months, the season of storms begins, it is interesting to roam the beach in search of seafood, always curious what will wash ashore, this time? If you breathe air, consisting of droplets sea water, you can get a better effect than inhalation, it is very useful. Winter aerotherapy energizes, saturates the body with strength.
Going to the mountains is another of the winter entertainments, you can climb right in a T-shirt, it is very warm here. Evergreen trees give a sense of liveliness, which cannot be said about gray deciduous forests.
Crimea is beautiful at any time and in any weather. If your vacation is for the winter period, then the peninsula will be glad to meet and entertain you. Come to Crimea all year round!
Everyone associates the sea with summer. Warm water, hot beaches, lots of fun on the water... But few people know that the Crimea in winter can offer no less entertainment than in the sunny summer months. We will talk about this further.
A mixture of different peoples
Beautiful Yalta, luxurious Koktebel, tourist Alushta every summer receive thousands of visitors from different parts of the world. Increasingly, travelers are choosing domestic resorts instead of Turkey, Egypt and Bulgaria.
The season here starts in May. Thousands of hotels and bases begin to operate. You can settle in the private sector or live in a "savage" tent.
People who really want to have a good time do not interfere with the cold season and snowy weather in Crimea. In winter, you can also have fun and relax here.
For many centuries, people of different nationalities, religions and mentalities coexisted on the peninsula. Taurians were the original inhabitants of this territory. The Greeks had a significant influence on the culture of this region. Until now, the ruins of ancient architecture have been preserved here. For some time, Romans, Bulgarians, Armenians and Slavic neighbors lived here.
In 1475, the Turks conquered the lands, and the power of the Ottoman state was established on the peninsula. From the middle of the 18th century, during the war, the territory passed to Russia.
Imperial period
The development of the coast as a health resort began in the 19th century. It was during this period that transport links between different regions of the country were established. The railway contributed to the flow of people wishing to receive medical treatment by the sea. So the resort direction began to develop. Then almost no one visited Crimea in winter. Here only in summer season could offer entertainment.
The royal family also rested on this territory. Summer estates were built for the nobles, some of which have survived to this day. Today these buildings are the historical face of the peninsula. They are also open to tourists in winter. Many of the mansions have not only aesthetic value, but also architectural. They have become symbols of the peninsula and host thousands of tour groups every year.
In the tsarist period, resorts were made from the territory on which forests grew, they exist there and now. Crimea was beautiful in winter, but rich people visited the peninsula only in the warm season.
Due to the reforms of the new government, the local Tatars were forced to leave the land. The peninsula received a new influx of tourists after the construction of the royal residence of the Livadia Palace here.
Transition from decline to prosperity
A new stage started under the Soviet regime. Tourism immediately developed in several directions. people organized hiking in the mountains, medical institutions and children's camps began to operate. There were a lot of hotels with different prices for rooms.
After the strengthening of Soviet power, Crimea became the main health resort of the Union. In winter, the resorts were closed, but in the summer people from all republics came here. Scientists have calculated that in 1988 more than 8 million tourists rested on the Black Sea coast.
After the collapse Soviet Union the number of vacationers who could afford a ticket to the peninsula fell sharply. If earlier 20% of travelers came to the resort for free (accommodation was paid by the state), then after 1991 the spontaneous flow of people increased. But it was during this period that other places began to grow, which the Soviet authorities ignored. They were opened by "savages".
It should also be noted that it became popular in winter.
Relief Mystery
For true outdoor enthusiasts, the peninsula is open all year round. Facilitate the flow of tourists weather conditions.
The land area is more than 26,000 km². In such a small area, scientists identify 3 large and about 20 small climatic regions. Researchers explain this diversity by the fact that the earth is washed by two seas: the Black and Azov. The coastline stretches for more than 2500 km. Relief also plays a role in weather conditions. Almost 70% of the territory falls on the plains, 20% - the mountainous surface, the rest - water bodies. The weather in the Crimea in winter is certainly associated with all these factors.
If the air temperature and precipitation in summer are the same for the entire peninsula, then in the cold months the forecast for different climatic regions varies enormously. For example, in July the temperature difference between south and north can be 1°C, while in January these figures differ by 11 degrees.
Cool weather
Plays an important role in this process mountain range, which becomes a kind of shield that protects the island from cold and dry continental winds. What is winter like in Crimea? The south is more like Mediterranean countries.
The cold season is mild here. Most low temperature fixed, of course, on the tops of the mountains. There, the indicator sometimes reaches -5 ... -6 ° C. In turn, in the steppe zone, it does not fall below -3 °C.
The Miskhor zone was recognized as the warmest part of the peninsula. This territory is surrounded by the Black Sea on one side, and Mount Ai-Petri on the other. Here, even in the first month of the year, the average reaches +5 °C. Each time, severe cold causes significant damage to this area. Freeze unique plants, which are the pride of many gardens.
Spring instead of frost
The average winter temperature in Crimea (in its southern part) is +2...+4 °C. In the steppe zone, the indicator is lower by 3-4 divisions. The most severe cold that can catch you in this area is -6-8 °C. But such frosts rage only at night, and during the daytime, the figures increase. Usually, even in winter, the peninsula has a positive temperature (+10...+15 °C). Absolute minimum scientists registered in the village of Klepinino, which is in the steppe zone. There, the thermometer once dropped to -30 °C.
Winds often blow over the north of the peninsula, mountains. They rage in the first months of the year. But the south sometimes suffers from significant storms and storms. Meteorologists warn about all possible dangers, so the weather is not able to spoil your holiday in the Crimea in winter.
This land is very poor in rain. The main precipitation in the north falls in summer, and in the south - in cold weather. In fact, the weather conditions of this region are more reminiscent of spring.
Minor obstructions
For people accustomed to bitter cold and snowstorms, the weather on the peninsula will seem like a real thaw. When the cold reigns in your house, the warm and moderate winter of the Crimea will seem just a cool summer. All frosts disappear with the morning sun. Sometimes slight rains and fogs can spoil the mood, but they do not linger on the ground for a long time.
In general, tourists note that such weather conditions are quite suitable for excursions and pleasant walks along the sea coast.
Almost everyone thinks about rest on the peninsula. The resort is worth attention due to affordable prices and acceptable quality of services. Recently, more and more people visit Crimea in winter. Feedback from guests of the resort is positive.
Benefits of cold tourism
Travelers note that housing and entertainment prices are much lower, and the service is still of high quality. Due to the fact that the peninsula is resting, employees can pay more attention to each client. Tourists who are not enthusiastic about crowds and queues especially like this kind of vacation.
In winter, the main resort cities of Crimea turn from buzzing hives into quiet and cozy cities. You can safely stroll along the embankments and admire the picturesque landscapes.
Meet here winter holidays- Christmas, New Year. Vacations are fun and useful in Crimea.
Tourists who vacation on the peninsula in winter know one more advantage. When the season ends, many inexpensive but good tour desks continue to operate. If in the summer months it is not easy to use the services of professionals, then in the cold season they have a lot of free time, and the prices are much lower.
Winter is a time for reflection
In the midst of holiday season the crowd heads for the beaches. But in winter, Crimea also has a positive effect on the body. Healing fresh air will not only improve health, but also set the mind in a positive way. At this time of the year, as travelers note, here you can take a break from the noise of the city and concentrate on creative work. Great ideas come to mind.
Helps to move away from the ordinary and active rest. In the mountains you can ski, snowboard and sled. This activity is no less exciting than jet skis and catamarans. There are trails for both professionals and amateurs.
Thousands of families visit Crimea in winter with children. All of them leave good feedback about winter sports. The guests note that the amount for the equipment is low, and the inventory is almost new.
Minor cons
Along with positive reviews, there are also criticisms. Parents note that kindergartens do not work at hotels and bases, where the crumbs could have fun while adults agree on tours. Another disadvantage is that there is poor contact between hotels and ski resorts. Therefore, you have to look for entertainment on your own.
For people who love a relaxing holiday, walking tours to the Crimean caves are offered. What could be better than walking through a snow-covered forest? Groups are usually small, so the guide has time to answer everyone's questions. It seems that you are walking in a circle of close friends.
It is easier to get to Crimea by car in winter. Drivers say the roads are empty big cities No traffic jams. Also, guests of the peninsula say that almost every hotel or base has a parking lot, which is free at this time of the year.
Fairy tale in reality
Positive impressions await those who climb to the top of the mountain in winter. Even tourists who have repeatedly visited Crimea in the summer note that the land covered with snow evokes completely different emotions. If the weather was rainy, then you should visit the waterfalls. Lively, energetic streams will not leave you indifferent.
Unforgettable will be the New Year in the Crimea. For the weekend with the whole company, you can rent a comfortable house in the mountains. For a fee, a delicious dinner will be prepared for everyone. The establishments also offer a special concert program for adults and children. You can rent a house both for the day and for the whole vacation.
Winter in Crimea is really fabulous. Everyone who visits the peninsula will be convinced of this.
Crimea strikes with the beauty of its nature not only in summer, but also in winter. In addition, during the winter months, you definitely won’t run into crowds of tourists, and the prices can be a pleasant surprise.
D
you think there is nothing to do in the Crimea in winter? Let's check!
Go skiing on Ai-Petri
In winter, the picturesque mountain Ai-Petri turns into ski resort with lifts. The season lasts approximately from December to March. Even if you don't like winter sports, it's definitely worth visiting the mountain. The local mountain landscapes combined with fresh air are worth coming to Crimea in winter.
See Demerdzhi
This is another natural attraction that is worth admiring. Mount Demerdzhi is popular both in summer and winter. Mountain peaks covered with snow caps look amazing. It is especially worth paying attention to the Valley of Ghosts, which is a fabulous stone forest.
Visit palaces
If you are tired of winter walks in the fresh air, then you can go on excursions to Livadia, Vorontsovsky, Massandra and other palaces, because in winter you will not hustle among tourists, as in summer. By the way, in winter, as a rule, entrance tickets to palaces are lower.
Take a walk along the Yalta embankment
As in any other maritime city, the embankment in Yalta is the most visited attraction. However, if you are in Yalta in winter, you will definitely not run into a crowd of tourists and you will be able to breathe calmly sea air and take wonderful sea photos. You can also find palm trees covered with snow, which in itself is an amazing phenomenon.
Go down to the caves
Crimea is famous for its abundance of cave chains, which are a great place for exciting excursions. If in the summer you may not have warm clothes with you on vacation, then in winter you can definitely explore the caves, the temperature in which is only about 10 degrees. Be sure to visit the Red, Skelskaya, Marble caves.
See frozen waterfalls
Waterfalls in the Crimea can be called a real miracle of nature, and there are a lot of them here. Huge streams of water falling from the rocks look great. And if the air temperature outside is below zero, then the waterfall turns into huge blocks of ice, which cannot but bewitch. Be sure to visit the Wuchang-Su, Su Uchkhan and Silver Jets waterfalls.
Visit the Tauric Chersonese National Reserve
If you like antiquities, be sure to visit the ruins of an ancient Greek city built in the south-west of Crimea more than 2500 years ago, as well as the local archaeological museum.
Thermal springs on the Arabat Spit
Who said that you can't swim in the Crimea in winter? The sea can be completely replaced by hot thermal springs, which can be found on the Arabat Spit. And nearby are sanatoriums and hospitals, where accommodation in winter is several times cheaper than in summer. An excellent occasion to improve your health and admire the winter Crimea.
Wine tours
You can bask in winter in Crimea not only in thermal springs, but also on wine tours, tasting centennial wines. Tours of wine cellars and adits are very popular with tourists. It is especially worth visiting the Massandra winery and purchasing special varieties.
Admire the sea
The mild winter climate in Crimea allows you to enjoy seascapes and mountain panoramas, and walks along the sea will give peace and tranquility.
Breathe in the fresh sea air
In winter, in the Crimea, the sea smells in a special way! Not sweaty bodies from unbearable heat, cheap women's perfumes and chebureks fried in machine oil, but the fresh sea - one of the most pleasant and romantic smells!
Meet spring!
Almost always something blooms in Crimea, even in winter! And the real spring in the Crimea begins in February. At this time, you can see an amazing sight when the trees are in clouds of lilac and pink flowers!
Have a good trip to the winter Crimea!
It is difficult for most people to imagine what Crimea looks like in winter. And this is not surprising. After all, everyone is used to going there with the onset of hot days, when daylight hours approach their maximum, and the air and water become so warm that you can swim for hours or wander through the mountains.
Winter holidays in Crimea
But the peninsula is beautiful not only when summer is on the calendar. Holidays from December to February, although radically different from summer, can give completely new impressions and vivid emotions. And even the weather is not a hindrance, but on the contrary - fresh, cool air has a great effect on health, increasing immunity. The local climate itself is unique, as it combines the healing influence of the sea and almost untouched by civilization mountain ranges. Such conditions are especially beneficial for the functioning of the respiratory system. If a person has accumulated fatigue, there are signs of depression or stress, a trip to this resort will help restore and strengthen the nervous system in a short period.
What do you need to know about the weather?
If there is any doubt about what the winter will be like in the Crimea, you need to get acquainted with the statistics for the past years. Judging by the data, on the coldest days the temperature did not fall below -2 °C. Basically, you should tune in to the fact that the street will be from 1 to 8 degrees above zero. These are quite comfortable weather conditions, especially if you take warm clothes with you, and take a thermos with hot tea with you on hikes.
It is really cool only in February, and then only because of the winds that blow from the sea. A unique feature of these territories is that it is very warm near the coast, and a snowstorm will rage in the mountains at this time, sweeping meter-long snowdrifts. But this has its own charm. For example, you can go skiing or snowboarding in the morning, and take a walk along the sunny embankment in the afternoon.
Where can you stay?
Fortunately for tourists, in the Crimea in winter you can find premium-class housing for quite low prices. Sanatoriums, hotels, guest houses and private boarding houses are ready to provide a good discount on the best rooms and apartments. Further, it depends on the purpose of the trip and financial possibilities. If you plan to improve your health, examine the body and undergo a course of therapy, you can find a suitable spa complex and stay there. Many of them even have their own pools. But what if you just need a place to relax between excursions and hikes? Then you can see the villas and boarding houses. Such tourism gives a huge advantage - the choice is so great that you can find luxury apartments for half the price, from the windows of which you can enjoy stunning views of the seascapes or cliffs.
What could be better than mountains?
Peaks attract not only those who want to get extreme sensations from a rapid descent on skis or snowboards. On clear days, unusual views for tourists open from there: only needles turn green on the slopes, and deciduous trees stand bare, allowing you to consider the features of the relief. When the air is clear, nearby areas are clearly visible and photographs of extraordinary beauty are obtained. The weather on the peninsula in cold weather is conducive to unhurried contemplation, which allows you to get away from the daily hustle and bustle.
If you want to go skiing, you should go to the ski resorts of Crimea. There are two of them, the first is located on the Angarsk pass. Usually the snow cover here reaches 30 cm and there is everything for outdoor activities: 2 tracks of different complexity are equipped - for pros and for beginners. You can rent equipment. There is also the opportunity to take a training course to master professional techniques and feel confident on any descent. Things are no worse on Ai-Petri, watch the video:
If the amount of snow matters, then here it is several times more. A one and a half meter layer of snow is considered a common occurrence, on which you can go down on anything - sleds, snowmobiles or on a backpack - for those who have not yet had time to master modern devices.
You can even go deep into the bowels of the earth
You should definitely visit the famous caves. Almost all of them maintain the same temperature throughout the year. For example, the six-level Kizil-Koba is not only one of the largest in area, but also an incredibly beautiful cave with a unique underground river, stalactites and stalagmites of unusual shape and size. It is located near the village of Perevalnoe. And next to the village of Marble, there is another grotto, no less significant for history - Emine-Bair-Khosar, which keeps traces of life that took place here about 2 million years ago. The bones of mammoths and other animals are carefully stored in one of the many exhibition halls. If you go to the lower plateau of Chatyr-Dag, you will get acquainted with the galleries of the Marble Cave.
Masterpieces of architecture
We are accustomed to summer excursions with visits to luxurious palaces and palace territories, when you need to break through the tops of people in order to look at at least one eye at amazing halls, chic interiors, paintings and household items. To take a decent photo for memory, you have to wait until the main stream of tourists moves aside. Visiting Crimea in winter, the photos will be amazing. Firstly, you can give a guarantee that there will be no one in the frame except you. And secondly, the surroundings of the palaces may be covered with snow, which will add even more charm to the sights. Mostly people go to the Livadia and Massandra palaces. As for the Swallow's Nest castle, it is equally good at any time. Numerous cathedrals are no less beautiful - the Yalta Church of Alexander Nevsky, the Resurrection Church in Foros or the Exaltation of the Cross in Livadia.
waterfalls
When planning a vacation, you should definitely include a visit to the waterfalls in the program. Mountain streams on frosty days look completely different than usual. Drop by drop turns into an icy stream, which froze in anticipation of a thaw. Dzhur-Dzhur, Wuchang-Su or Silver Streams are just some of the water features that deserve attention. The weather can change very quickly, so you need to follow the forecast to see what you want.
What about the botanical garden?
It would seem that life in such places with the advent of cold weather freezes, but no. For example, the Nikitsky Botanical Garden is available for visits all year round. After all, it has huge greenhouses with cacti and other heat-loving plants. But the area under open sky no less attractive. And if you come there in the snowy season, palm trees under the snow look very funny, and wide spruce paws under a white blanket create the feeling of a New Year's fairy tale. Cypresses, junipers and cedars exude a fragrant aroma that has a beneficial effect on health. If you are lucky enough to visit Nikita in January, you can see huge meadows of blooming snowdrops, this is also the period of flowering of winter flowers. Some people deliberately go to the Crimea in winter to relax their souls properly.
What promise walks along the coast?
The coast on cool days is so beautiful that many artists come there to get inspiration and find a plot for a future masterpiece. If you just want to breathe in the salty breeze and admire the scenery, you should visit the places equipped for this. The leading position is occupied by the Yalta embankmentbecause it offers charming views of the sea horizons and the rocks surrounding it. There are many museums around and entertainment centers. Alushta embankment follows. Its length allows you to go for a long walk. It is very interesting to arrange a promenade along the coast, when the sea is restless and the waves break one after another on the shore, producing loud, bubbling sounds. If it gets a little chilly, you can always go to a cozy, warm restaurant or cafe and drink a warming drink.
Cultural and entertainment events
The peninsula is rich in various museums - archaeological, local history, historical, literary, in which high season it's not that easy to get in. And with the advent of December, several visitors a day are also welcome there. You should definitely visit the Aivazovsky art gallery in Feodosia. Performances are held almost daily at the Chekhov Theater in Yalta. Not far from it is the Crocodilearium. With children it will be interesting to go to the local zoo "Skazka". An excellent terrarium has been opened in Sevastopol, and a huge aquarium with amazing fish and other inhabitants of the depths has been opened in Alushta. If communication with animals was not enough, the best way to satisfy this desire is to go to any equestrian club you like, where you can both take a riding course and recover on horseback. scenic spots. Pleasantly pleased and the cost of this pleasure. From December to February it will always be much lower.
When does warming come?
The weather here is pretty predictable. February often brings with it a cold snap, strong gusts of wind and storm warnings, but a thaw usually comes at the end of the month. Sometimes the thermometers even overcome the mark of 15 degrees and people who want to swim appear on the beaches. The days are getting sunnier, and the first flowers are blooming in the parks - everything heralds the arrival of spring. And when the soil is warm enough, and the temperature becomes stable, fruit trees begin to bloom profusely, from which delicate floral aromas emanate. But this will be a completely different story.
MOSCOW - SEVASTOPOL
New Year's Eve car trip
Winter Crimea
4,500 km
From Moscow to Sevastopol and back
Ferry crossing and mountain passes
New Year in Crimea
Are you crazy? To Crimea? In winter, by car? And even with a small child? - Outraged friends tried to dissuade. - At the crossing of the storm, and if the sea freezes completely? There is terrible ice in Crimea - do you want to celebrate the New Year in a ditch? Yes, and the Ukrainian army is about to unleash a new offensive, and Crimea is nearby!
Well, to be afraid of wolves - do not go to the Crimea ... Filling a full tank and throwing hastily collected jackets, hats, boots into the car, we rushed away from Moscow. Down the map of Russia, towards the unknown...
Poor, poor Muscovites! Suffocating from the exhaust gases of a metropolis teeming with cars and people, going crazy every day from the radiation of millions of wires, repeaters and concentrated human voltage - the inhabitants of Moscow are like hamburgers in a microwave oven...
And only having escaped beyond the Moscow Ring Road, far and for a long time, you suddenly experience incredible lightness and delight! Somewhere behind are all your problems, difficulties, worries; the pins of the stretched nerve-strings weaken. Ahead is an endless ribbon of road, the whiteness of snow-covered fields, the flashing of rivers, forests, villages - the speed and happiness of freedom ...
The M-4 "Don" highway, which used to be narrow and broken, considered the "road of death", today is a quite decent autobahn. There is paid sections, but they are worth it: the speed limit in places is not 90, but all 130 km / h. True, there are many cameras.
If you do not want to study geography for six months later on incoming fines, it is better not to violate the speed limit above reasonable limits.
Kashira, Novomoskovsk, Efremov, Yelets, Zadonsk remain away from the expressway. To the left beyond the fields appeared the domes of the main cathedral of the monastery of St. Tikhon of Zadonsk. Having crossed ourselves, we whisper a prayer to another Russian saint, Mitrophanius of Voronezh.
Every region has its saints.
After spending the night somewhere beyond Voronezh, we again rush to the south. The monotony of the route is brightened up by roadside billboards with information about the achievements of the region: milk yield, livestock, industry, museums and estates. In the Rostov region, we accidentally notice that there is no snow anymore - only the black earth of the steppes and rare groves of pyramidal poplars.
Krasnodar Territory, Kuban. Soon after the village of Kushchevskaya we turn off the road to the right. Further only on the navigator (it is easy to get lost on country roads): Timashevsk, Slavyansk-on-Kuban, Temryuk. Finally, the long-awaited sea appeared in the village of Golubitskaya! Azov. And after a few kilometers, a panorama of the Black Sea opened up.
The Taman Peninsula, the picture is incredible: on the left - the Black Sea, on the right - the Sea of \u200b\u200bAzov, in front - the Kerch Strait, and behind it - Crimea. The Chushka spit goes into the strait for several kilometers - a narrow strip of land along which Railway and autocanvas (they rest against the berths of the ferry crossing of the Kavkaz port).
V Kerch Strait the day before, a storm had raged, the crossing had just resumed, and a long line of cars and heavy trucks managed to accumulate on the Chushka Spit. But the most unexpected thing: not only we dared to break into the Crimea on New Year's Eve! There are several hundred cars in the queue, in every second there are small children.
Either the crisis had such an effect, or we really are the most desperate nation in the world - but neither ice, nor bad weather, nor the war going on in the neighborhood were able to keep our fellow citizens.
The Kerch crossing took 13 hours ... For the end of December, given the "off season", a very long time! Many were not ready for such a standing, after all, it’s not summer!
Cold wind, rain. Someone in the queue was running out of fuel, they were pushed to the ferry by hand. But the inconvenience experienced was soon compensated by the exoticism of the winter Crimea. Russian Crimea!
We crossed the Kerch Strait by ferry after midnight. Having reached the center and found out the prices in hotels, from the embankment we went further along Sverdlov Street. After a couple of kilometers near the Sea Fishing Port at the intersection with Marata Street, we stumbled upon the Meridian Hotel. A huge and unsophisticated hotel of the Soviet type, but the prices, respectively, are also Soviet. To lie down and recuperate until the morning is quite acceptable.
The first thing that surprised the winter Crimea was changeable capricious weather. Showers could pass at night and in the morning, and after a couple of hours the sun was already shining over the sea. In contrast to Moscow covered in snowstorms, almost no snow was observed in Crimea (it fell "pointwise", and then mainly in mountainous areas).
In the morning, Kerch met with a gloomy sky and cold rain, instead of vacationers, wet seagulls walked along the central embankment. Through Lenin Square, past the decorated New Year tree, rare Kerchans scurried somewhere. Either the city was still sleeping, or everyone was washed away by the rain ...
From Kerch to Sevastopol 280 kilometers. First over hills and plains. Before Feodosia, the road leads to the Black Sea coast and runs for several kilometers along deserted sandy beaches. The mountains of the southern coast of Crimea will appear ahead.
To get to Sevastopol from here, you can go by two routes: turn to Sudak and further along the sea along the endless serpentines of the South Coast (through Alushta, Yalta, Foros). Breathtaking landscapes await you along the way, but only auto travelers with a good vestibular apparatus can appreciate them with pleasure. You have to wind through the mountain slopes for half a day: if someone in the car is prone to "sickness" - the marvelous beauty of the road can turn out to be torture, and then you will need to dry-clean the cabin ...
A simpler and, apparently, faster option is to go along the direct route through Stary Krym to Simferopol, from there turn to Sevastopol. There will also be mountains on the way, but rare serpentines on them with the South Coast cannot be compared.
Sevastopol. Beloved Hero City, for the defense of which my grandmother received a medal during the Great Patriotic War, after returning to Russia, she became especially close. Again, relatives, their own!
Now Sevastopol was preparing for the meeting of the New Year and Christmas.
Decorated pines were already standing on Nakhimov Square. The center of the city in terms of the beauty of illumination, perhaps, was not inferior to Moscow. In the evening, parents with children poured into the streets. Sevastopol lived in anticipation of the holiday!
At the sight of joyful Crimeans, neighboring Donbass and Ukraine were involuntarily recalled. There is still hunger and cold, shelling, death of people ... If the peninsula had not returned to Russia then, perhaps now the whole Crimea would have been drowned in blood. This is not propaganda - I know what I'm talking about.
Although, to be honest, Crimea has never been Ukrainian. Just look at the monuments: cathedrals, embankments, palaces and bastions. Malakhov Kurgan, burial vault of Russian admirals. Chersonese, Sudak, Bakhchisaray. Everywhere the heritage of Greek, Tatar and Russian cultures. Over the past decades, Ukraine has brought to Crimea only yellow and blue symbols, tridents and road signs on the "move", but even those have already been imperceptibly and painlessly replaced ...
I do not like stereotyped phrases, but in this case, indeed, historical justice has triumphed.
During the night, the wind dispersed the clouds, and the winter sun shone over Sevastopol. Along the most beautiful Yalta highway, past Balaklava and Foros, we are heading to visit our friends in Gurzuf.
Having sold an apartment in Yekaterinburg, journalist Elena Golovanova moved to the Crimea with her husband. They settled high in the mountains, on the slopes of the lavender fields above Gurzuf. From the veranda of their house, lovingly named "Lavender", a marvelous view of the impregnable rocks of the Yalta Reserve going into the clouds and the Bear Mountain - Ayu-Dag, climbed far into the sea, opened up.
Having somehow parked the car on the slope, we immediately got involved in New Year's Eve chores. While the women were decorating the table with fruit mosaics, my daughter and I decided to decorate the Christmas tree. True, there were no Christmas trees in the Golovanovs' house (they were not required) - cedars and firs grew right in the yard.
Christmas trees for the Crimea are very rare, instead of them, only pine trees are sold at the "Christmas tree markets". Even in the famous Nikitsky botanical garden(located on the slopes between Yalta and Gurzuf) - in the absence of firs - it is customary to decorate a huge centuries-old sequoia for the New Year ...
All this was outlandish and exotic. Last days December, and here on south coast Crimea - the grass is green, palm branches flutter in the wind and flowers bloom ...
And yet, we, the northerners, really lacked snow! 3 days before the New Year, a heavy cloud caught on the top of Ai-Petri, and the long-awaited snowfall finally passed in the mountains above the Yalta Reserve.
In search of New Year's Crimean snow on December 30, we drove the car along the mountain serpentines to Ai-Petri. The Wuchang-Su waterfall, usually dry in the summer, now shook with its power. Tons of icy water crashed down from the rocks, spreading a brilliant rain of freezing drops for hundreds of meters around.
Near the waterfall, with some anxiety, we noticed a temporary road sign, which warned that the further ascent to Ai-Petri was "closed". An exception was allowed only for cars "with increased cross-country ability."
Since there was no barrier or cordons nearby, our beloved Russian "maybe" won over common sense. Deciding that the Renault Logan on winter studded tires (however, it was completely “bald”, but the studs were gone) was in no way inferior to off-road vehicles, we boldly continued climbing ...
I note that "maybe" has never let us down. With reverence remembering the folk wisdom "the cooler the jeep - the farther to run after the tractor", we always found the opportunity to get stuck in the most exotic places. They didn't change the traditions this time...
The higher, the colder. Finally the car reached the strip of snow. Getting out on Mountain pass, we got into a real winter fairy tale!
To the right was an icy village. The walls and roofs of houses, radars and radio towers, parked cars - everything is covered with a snow-white crust, everything is frozen, died out, as if we had arrived at the kingdom of the Snow Queen.
The view of the village both fascinated and disturbed - what happened here, why not a single car started? The frozen landscape was suspiciously reminiscent of the disaster movie The Day After Tomorrow.
A narrow track, winding in snowdrifts, leads to the horizon and merges with the sky. And all around are snow-covered pine trees, similar to coral reefs (apparently, the result of an freezing rain that has passed over the mountain plateau).
“White Silence”, it seems, was the name of one of the songs of Vladimir Vysotsky ...
How long have we had only white dreams,
All other shades of snow have been brought in.
We have long been blinded by such whiteness,
But we will see clearly from the black strip of the earth.
Our throat will release silence
Our weakness will melt like a shadow.
And the reward for the nights of despair
There will be an eternal polar day.
(V. Vysotsky)
Having traveled alone along the mountain plateau for another couple of kilometers, we finally rolled down the ice to the station cable car"Ai-Petri". It got dark, with observation deck the sea was almost indistinguishable, far below, behind the black spurs of the mountains, Yalta shimmered with thousands of lights.
There were days left until the New Year. It's time for Return trip, for the night they were waiting for us in Gurzuf ...
The car started easily, but for some reason did not budge. No forward, no back ... We were trapped. The wheels slipped helplessly along the icy road as smooth as glass ...
To go downhill to Yalta, we first had to overcome 500 meters up the ice. "Bald" winter tires with remnants of studs are unsuitable for such a rise. Local Tatars on the "Niva" promised to help, but soon they themselves, despite the four-wheel drive, almost rolled back. Winter skating rink Crimean mountains became an absolute barrier for us.
Night ahead, little daughter in the car, minus 15 degrees outside, and the gas gauge is almost at zero. Looking for a New Year's Eve adventure? Get ... It remains only to pray to Nikolai Ugodnik - so that he does not freeze in these Tatar mountains of the Russian Crimea.
What, Muscovites, stuck? - A voice from the darkness brought him out of his daze. Near us, like a wonderful chariot sent down from above, stood a huge SUV with chains wound around the wheels. Two "yellow-black" flags were sticking out above the cab, Ukrainian numbers were shining under the body.
- And how long have you been here, Muscovites, resting? Is your child frozen? - Seeing a child with us, the dashing Ukrainian driver softened. - Come on, the cable, I'm on chains, I'll pull you uphill and across the ice! Where did you go in such weather!
Fastening the cable, the driver considered it his duty to scold the Russian media and politics:
We in Ukraine treat the Russians normally, but your television, what nonsense it shows! Here, I am a Ukrainian, and what, now I am a Banderist?
Well, you know, and your Ukrainian media, TSN, for example - are they not lying?!
I do not argue, probably, ours are also lying.
And who benefits from this tragedy, to quarrel two peoples, so that Russians and Ukrainians kill each other? ..
Okay, let's not argue, let's go... Glory to Ukraine!
Glory to friendship! Go…
Having cut the darkness with its headlights, the jeep briskly pulled us up the ice on the rise. Some surrealism! Nearby in some 500 km there are fierce fighting. And here, along the peaks of the Ai-Petri Yayla of the Russian Crimea, in the new year's eve two cars go in one bundle: a Ukrainian family helps a Russian out of trouble ... And no matter what they say later about “Khokhols” and “dills” - we will remember this Ukrainian driver for a long time to come, who came to the rescue in an extreme situation ... Apparently, in the mountains still retain some kind of internationalism.
We celebrated the New Year in Evpatoria, in the apartment of my classmate from the philological faculty of Moscow State University. Muscovite Dmitry Yemets, a well-known children's writer, author of sensational books about Tanya Grotter (the Russian answer to the British sorcerer Harry Potter), together with his large family moved to the Crimea a long time ago. And he doesn't seem to have any regrets. Peace and freedom are the best companions of creativity!
Although "peace" in a large family is a relative concept. On the eve of the New Year, the younger Yemtsy were in Brownian motion: they scattered toys and tools around the apartment, then they collected it all back, constantly getting under their feet and did not allow their parents to concentrate on thoughts about the main thing - how to fit everyone at the table, what would be such a festive and fasting feed and where to get a Christmas tree ... However, we managed to solve the last problem. Even on the slopes of Ai-Petri, we collected cedar branches, and on the track we bought a real New Year's pine, which the noisy family immediately began to dress up.
Electricity, despite all the fears, was not turned off on New Year's Eve, and the Crimeans finally watched the congratulations of Vladimir Putin (now their President), heard the Kremlin Chimes. And on the morning of January 1, hundreds of Evpatorians were already walking along the Black Sea coast.
On New Year's Eve, frost hit, although without snow. sandy beaches crowded with parents and children. The restless boys from the family of Dima Yemets immediately managed to get sea water into their shoes, and the writer had no choice but to put gloves on their feet instead of socks.
The next day, January 2, together with the Yemtsov family, we went to Bakhchisarai in two cars. The fountain sung by Pushkin in the Khan's palace did not work in winter, it was not quite affordable to feed our entire children's horde in a cafe for tourists - in the end we decided to go to the mountains again, show the kids real snow. From Bakhchisaray there is a slightly dangerous, but very beautiful road, which through a mountain pass leads straight to Yalta (that is, it is an ascent to Ai-Petri, only from the opposite side). They say that there should even be a ski resort (which means that we will definitely meet snow).
The path passed through the villages of Tankovoye, Kuibyshevo and Sokolinoye. This is where the snow begins. The road became narrower and worse, mostly SUVs and cars with chains on wheels descended from the mountains. Dmitry Yemets, knowing about our New Year's adventure on the top of Ai-Petri, did not dare to repeat the same thing on his old minibus and stayed to wait for us in Sokolino. And, as it turned out, he did the right thing!
We, confident that the "maybe" will not let you down this time, slowly and carefully began to climb the snow-covered serpentines. We decided that as long as the wheels somehow cling to the road surface, we will drive forward - and we'll see.
