Moscow, of course, is large, but its entire center can be easily explored on foot. The capital has retained the structure of a traditional Russian city - in the middle there is a fortress, from which streets radiate in beams and circles. Therefore, all walks in the center can be started from the Kremlin. Several routes are suggested below:
Kremlin - metro station "Smolenskaya"
The route from the Kremlin to the Smolenskaya metro station stretches for about 3 km. You need to get off the metro at the Teatralnaya or Okhotny Ryad stations and walk along Mokhovaya Street to the side. On the right hand, there will first be the National Hotel (house no. 15), built in 1903 by the architect Alexander Ivanov. There is an interesting mosaic under the roof of the building. Further down Mokhovaya Street, two old buildings of Moscow University (houses # 11 and 9) will appear on your right, and the central exhibition hall "Manezh" (house # 1) on your left. When you reach the Lenin Library metro station, turn right to Vozdvizhenka Street. After a while you will reach the Arbatskaya metro station. On the right, directly opposite the exit of the Arbatskaya station, there will be a Moorish-style mansion of Arseny Morozov (house no. 16). This is one of the strangest buildings in Moscow, built in late XIX century. According to legend, when the house was ready, Morozov's mother said that before only she knew that her son had bad taste, but now all of Moscow will know it. However, tastes are changing: over time, Muscovites sincerely fell in love with this building, and today Vozdvizhenka is already unthinkable without it. If you walk a few meters forward, you will find yourself at an underpass. On it you can go to the other side of the street to find yourself on Arbat Square. On it there is a cinema "Khudozhestvenny" (house number 14) - one of the oldest in Moscow: back in 1909, an electro-theater was opened in this building. Behind the "Artistic" is old station metro station "Arbatskaya" (in Moscow there are two "Arbatsky" and "Smolensky" stations - old and new). It is stylized as a mausoleum.
Along the underground passage you need to go to the other side, and you will find yourself at the beginning of two Arbats - Old and New. On the corner between them there will be a restaurant "Prague" (house No. 2 on Arbat Square). From the side of Old Arbat in the same building there is the entrance to the store where you can buy culinary products from the most famous Moscow restaurant. Then you can move along the Old or New Arbat. Old Arbat is a pedestrian street. There are shops and cafes on it, there are souvenir shops. The famous Arbat lanes, praised by Bulat Okudzhava, diverge in both directions.
House No. 26 on Arbat is occupied by the E. Vakhtangov Theater, at which a statue of Princess Turandot was placed. House No. 53 is known for the fact that Alexander Pushkin lived there. Now this building houses the poet's museum. Closer to the Smolenskaya metro station, there is McDonalds (building # 50/52, building 1). Stary Arbat ends at the metro station.
You can walk along Novy Arbat. This is a passing street with modern buildings (including high-rise buildings in the form of books), on the ground floors of which there are shops and restaurants. On the right side, at the corner of Novy Arbat and Povarskaya street, you will see a small and very cozy church of Simeon the Stylite (house no. 5 on Povarskaya). In house no. 8, on the same side, there is a large bookstore "Moscow House of Books". Closer to the Smolenskaya metro station is the Oktyabr cinema (house no. 24), which hosts the Moscow International Film Festival in summer. To get on the metro, you need to turn left at the intersection with the Garden Ring (there is an underground passage), after a few tens of meters there will be the Smolenskaya metro station.
Kremlin - Cathedral of Christ the Savior
The length of the route from the Kremlin to the Cathedral of Christ the Savior is approximately 2 km. This route runs almost in a straight line. You can walk along the Kremlin along or along Mokhovaya Street. Accordingly, you will walk around the building of the central exhibition hall "Manezh" (house No. 1 on Mokhovaya Street) from one side or the other. If you walk along Mokhovaya Street, on the right you will see the old buildings of Moscow University (houses No. 11 and 9). If along the Alexander Garden, then on the left is the Kremlin wall, and on the right is the "Manezh".
Along the underground passage you will need to go to the Lenin Library (house no. 5). Leaving the passage, you will see the Dostoevsky monument next to the library. Moving along it along Mokhovaya Street, you will come to the Pashkov House, one of the most beautiful buildings in the city center, built by Vasily Bazhenov in the 1780s. Its long-term restoration has recently finished. After Pashkov's house there will be Borovitskaya Square and the intersection with Znamenka Street, at the corner of which there is A. Shilov's gallery (house No. 5 along Znamenka). Mokhovaya Street grows into Volkhonka Street. Moving along Volkhonka, you will come to the Cathedral of Christ the Savior (house number 15), next to which there is an entrance to the metro (station "Kropotkinskaya"). On the road on your right, you will have a Museum of Fine Arts named after A.S. Pushkin (house number 12), and directly opposite him - the gallery of I. Glazunov (house number 13). If, before reaching the temple, immediately after the museum fine arts, turn right into Maly Znamensky Lane, then you will come to the N.K. Roerich (house no. 3/5).
From the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, you can go straight and walk along the streets of Ostozhenka and Prechistenka and the lanes in that area. Or you can turn right and go along Gogolevsky Boulevard to the Arbat.
Kremlin - Pushkin Square
The road from the Kremlin to Pushkin Square takes about 1 km. From the Kremlin you need to go to Tverskaya Street and walk up it to Pushkinskaya Square. Tverskaya is the central street of Moscow with many historic buildings... On the left side, at first, there will be a Drama Theater. M.N. Ermolova (house No. 5), then the building of the Central Telegraph (house No. 7), built in the 1920s.
After house No. 9, to the left of Tverskaya Street, Bryusov Lane departs, where the museum-apartment of V.E. Meyerhold (Bryusov lane, house number 12).
If you continue along the street, then approximately halfway between the Teatralnaya and Tverskaya metro stations, on your right hand, you will see Tverskaya Square with a statue of Yuri Dolgorukov standing on it. Opposite the square is the building of the City Hall (house # 13).
Further interesting houses are located on the right side. In the house number 8 there is one of the main bookstores of the city, called "Moscow". In the next house there is a bakery "Filippovskaya" (house no. 10). Before the revolution, the Filippov family owned a bakery known in Moscow and a bakery attached to it. The bakery was revived on its own historical site after the end of Soviet power. The central grocery store "Eliseevsky" is located in the house number 14.
Then you go out to Pushkinskaya Square, where there is a monument to the poet, designed by M. Opekushin in 1880. On the right will be the "Pushkinskiy" cinema, and on the left - Tverskoy Boulevard. In the area of Pushkinskaya Square there are three metro stations at once - "Tverskaya", "Pushkinskaya" and "Chekhovskaya". You can go to the metro, or you can continue. If you go straight, then along Tverskaya Street you will reach the Mayakovskaya metro station. If to the right - then you can walk along Strastnoy, and then Petrovsky boulevards and get off to Trubnaya station. If to the left - then along Tverskoy and then Nikitsky boulevards you can walk to the Arbatskaya metro station.
Kremlin - metro station "Chistye Prudy"
Walk from the Kremlin to the metro station " Chistye Prudy"will stretch for 2 km. A good walking route lies from the Kremlin to the northeast. To do this, you need to go to Manezhnaya Square and walk between the Moskva Hotel (house No. 2 on Okhotny Ryad Street) and the red chambers in the Russian style (in this passage usually there are souvenir shops), and then turn left.You will find yourself on the Revolution Square.There is a monument to Karl Marx, made by the sculptor L.E. passage, in front of you will be Teatralnaya Square, on which stands the Bolshoi Theater (house No. 1). In front of it fountains beat in summer, and in winter a Christmas tree is usually erected. this moment closed for large-scale renovation. If you face him and turn right, then along Teatralny Proezd you will reach Lubyanskaya Square (formerly Dzerzhinsky Square). Here is the famous Moscow store "Detsky Mir" (house No. 5 on Teatralniy proezd). Now it is also closed for reconstruction.
Walking along " Children's world", cross the intersection where Pushechnaya Street and Bolshaya Lubyanka Street meet at the corner. You will find yourself near house number 2. In Soviet times, it was the personification of repressions: the Cheka, the NKVD, the GPU and the KGB were sequentially located in it, now - the FSB of Russia. It was built in 1898 and at first housed apartments and shops.It was given to the state security authorities in 1919. In 1930, reconstruction was carried out according to the project of A. Shchusev.
If you walk along it, and then cross the underground passage to the other side of Myasnitskaya Street, you will find yourself next to the V.V. Mayakovsky (Lubyansky passage, 3/6). A little further in the same building is one of the main bookstores in Moscow - "Biblio-Globus".
Continuing along Myasnitskaya, you will find yourself surrounded by old Moscow houses. Their first floors are now occupied by shops and cafes. On the right hand, at the corner of Myasnitskaya Street and Krivokolenny Lane, there is a cafe "Mumu" (house no. 14/2). Then you will come to Bankovskiy lane (it will also be on your right hand). If you go along it, then you will run straight into the cafe-club "Bilingua" (Krivokolenny lane, 10, building 5). Bilingua is not only a cafe. There is also a bookstore and haberdashery with designer products, lectures and poetry evenings are held here.
If you go further along Myasnitskaya Street, then on your left you will find one very curious building in the Chinese style. This is the "Tea-Coffee on Myasnitskaya" store (house No. 19) - the bottom of the few shopping places that was opened even before the revolution and did not close even in Soviet times. People call it "Tea House". This is the main tea shop in Moscow. On the other side of the street is the Main Post Office (house # 26).
Myasnitskaya street will lead you straight to the Myasnitskiye Vorota square, where the Chistye Prudy and Turgenevskaya metro stations are located. If you go to the right, then you will find yourself on Chistoprudny Boulevard (at the beginning of it there is a monument to A.S. Griboyedov, erected in 1959), if to the left, then on Sretensky Boulevard.
We continue our walk through the center of Moscow. Those who have just joined can see the beginning here:, but since we returned to the starting point of the first part of the route, we can consider the next proposed route as an independent one. I propose a diagram of the upcoming walk:
So, we start from the intersection of st. Vozdvizhenka and Nikitsky Boulevard (Arbatskaya metro station). We cross the road along the underpass to the right and go out to such a beautiful house - the Shakhovsky - Krause - Osipovsky city estate (Vozdvizhenka st., 18/9). This two-story house with a mezzanine floor, with wings and front gates was built in 1783 by Prince Alexei Yakovlevich Shakhovskoy. Since 1842, the property passed into the hands of doctors. At first it was owned by the famous doctor I. I. Krause, and in 1852, when the house belonged to the staff captain Nikolai Yakovlevich Kozlakov, the architect N. I. Kozlovsky rebuilt the house. The changes were mainly related to the decor of the facade and indoor spaces... The house received a very spectacular facade, made in the Rococo style with very interesting decorations in the form of flower garlands and shells. In 1868, the estate was bought by the doctor Dmitry Timofeevich Osipovsky (1812-1881). On June 14, 1878, he was granted the nobility, and from that time on the coat of arms of the Osipovskys was located in the pediment of the house.
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We turn off onto Nizhniy Kislovsky lane. By the way, the streets are called Kislovsky, where people once lived who were engaged in cabbage sourdough, making kvass and similar products. These names are typical for Moscow, where many streets are named according to the nature of the work done by the people who lived in the area.
We reach house number 5, which is now the residence of the Swiss Ambassador. This mansion, built in the 18th century, changed owners and was rebuilt several times. The front part of the house opens onto the street, which in 1894 received a new facade designed by the architect P. M. Samarin, and the letters "VD" appeared on the pediment of the house - the initials of its then owner Vladimir Dumnov, the owner of a publishing house well-known in Moscow. which published the first works of Turgenev and Gogol. By the way, the Turgenev family also lived in this house in 1832-1833. Also here was the composer P.I.Tchaikovsky, who often stayed here with his student and friend V.S.Shilovsky, who had also been the owner of this house since 1872.
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We go further along the lane, and we reach the house 13 (Bolshaya Nikitskaya street, 19/13). The famous Mayakovsky Theater is located here. The original name "Theater Paradise" it received after the German Georg (George) Paradis (1846 - 1901), an actor and owner of his own enterprise, who began theatrical performances in this building in 1886. The building was built according to the project of the architect K.V. Tersky (the author of the facade is F.O.Shekhtel, we will get acquainted with the most famous house of this architect a little later). Initially, the premises were played by European stars who came on tour; world famous artists played on this stage, but after the revolution these tours ceased. Theater in different years It was headed by various famous directors and many famous actors have played and continue to play on its stage. I will not dwell on this topic, otherwise the story will be endless. But going to this theater has always been very prestigious, so I recommend it!
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We turn left along Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street and almost immediately on the right we see another very famous building TASS ( Tverskoy blvd, D 2). The building of the new TASS building, built on the site of the old buildings in 1977, was called one of the successful architectural projects of the 1970s. The windows of the building resemble TV screens, reflecting the essence of the organization that is located here.
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And we cross Nikitsky Boulevard (by the way, from Arbatskaya to this place it was possible to walk along the boulevard, there are also many interesting things), and we turn to the continuation of Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street. There, our attention was attracted by an ensemble of previously tenement houses of 1901-1903. on B. Nikitskaya, 31, built in the Art Nouveau style according to the project of architects ND Strukov and VP Zeidler. It is now an administrative building.
NOTE: If you go further along this street, then cross the Garden Ring and turn right, then you will come out to the Moscow Planetarium, or you can walk a little forward along Barrikadnaya Street, which is a continuation of B. Nikitskaya, there will be a Moscow Zoo.
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In general, our goal of the ball was the Great Ascension Church (36, B. Nikitskaya St.).
In one of the chapels of the still unfinished Church of the Ascension of the Lord, A.S. Pushkin was married to Natalia Goncharova. In honor of this event, in 1999, the Natalia and Alexander fountain was opened near the church with the figures of the poet and his wife. On a granite pedestal, there are columns of gray marble brought from Italy, crowned with a golden dome, symbolizing the dome of the Church of the Ascension of the Lord. Inside the rotunda there are sculptures by Goncharova and Pushkin, made by Mikhail Viktorovich Dronov. The sculptures are very hard to see, it is quite difficult to photograph them.
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The building of the Church of the Great Ascension in its current form was built on the site old church, and was finally completed in the 1830s. The consecration of the Cathedral of the Great Ascension took place on September 19, 1848. After the revolution, the bell tower was demolished, and the church was used first as a warehouse, then as a laboratory. On May 20, 1999, on the feast of the Ascension of the Lord, the temple was re-consecrated by His Holiness Patriarch of All Russia Alexy. And in 2002-2004 the bell tower was restored. Now the temple looks like this.
Interior decoration temple:
After visiting the temple, we crossed to the other side, to Malaya Nikitskaya Street.
I really liked the facade of house No. 10 - the former apartment building of A. I. Toropova (1906, architect O. O. Shishkovsky).
Then we moved on to house number 6, known as Ryabushinsky's house (Gorky's house-museum). We arrived here at 17 o'clock (2 hours after the start of our walk, including the first part). The museum is open until 17-30. We had half an hour for a quick tour of this beautiful house-museum. I wrote about this separately.
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NOTE: If you go further from Ryabushinsky's house along the street. Spiridonovka, and then turn into Bolshoi Patriarshy Lane, then you will come out to the Patriarch's Ponds. Bypassing this famous place on Malaya Bronnaya to the left, you can exit to the Garden Ring. Turning to the right and walking a little forward, you will see a house with the famous Bulgakovskaya apartment No. 50 (Bolshaya Sadovaya st., 10), where the writer's museum is now located. Going further, you will reach Triumphalnaya Square, where there are a lot of attractions: the Peking Hotel, the Satire Theater, Concert hall them. Tchaikovsky. On Triumfalnaya Square, a major reconstruction was also completed recently, and now there is a wonderful recreation area around the Mayakovsky monument. After taking a walk, you can go down to the metro to the most beautiful Mayakovskaya station.
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Well, after visiting a wonderful museum, we returned to Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street and walked along it towards the center. The buildings on it are interesting and beautiful, especially after restoration. But we will not dwell around them, we will just see.
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On this street, at 18 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street, there is the Church of the Ascension of the Lord (Small Ascension). This temple was first mentioned in the Moscow annals in 1548. Since the 1830s it has been called the "Small Ascension", so as not to be confused with the "Great Ascension" temple, which we recently visited. It is believed that a new stone church was erected on the site of an ancient church by Tsar Theodore Ioannovich, son of Ivan the Terrible, in memory of his wedding to the kingdom on the day of the Ascension of the Lord on June 10, 1584. The head of the temple is crowned with a beautiful cross with a crown and a tsata (the so-called "crescent" or "new moon") - a symbol of the grand ducal and patriarchal power, which dates back to the end of the 18th century. It has survived and was restored to its place in 1992. This year is the second year of the birth of the temple, which was closed in 1937 and completely lost its decoration, but for last years restored and painted by famous artists Ivan Glazunov, Irina Starzhenetskaya, Dmitry Alimov. The temple is small, but very cozy. It contains several rare icons and church values. Since the temple is located opposite the Moscow Conservatory, many of its students and graduates sing in the church choir.
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Across the street from the church, at 13 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Street, the Moscow Conservatory is located. The building was designed by the architect V.I.Bazhenov and purchased in 1766 for Ekaterina Dashkova. In 1812 the house belonged to Count M.S.Vorontsov, during the war the house burned down and was restored by 1824. In 1878, the building was bought by the Moscow Conservatory, founded in 1866. Soon this building became scarce and the Small (1898) and Big (1901) halls were completed with donations. In 2011, the reconstruction of the Great Hall was completed, which was carried out in just a year, so now this place has become even more beautiful. If you have time, I strongly advise you to go here!
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And we turn into Bryusov Lane. Walking along it, you can see a part of the Anglican Church located at Voznesensky Lane, 8/5, bld. 3. This church, built for the English community of Moscow in 1885, was closed during the Soviet years and was used, including , for the all-Union firm "Melodia" - many famous gramophone records were recorded here. And the revival of divine services in the church began in 1991, which are now held here every Sunday at English language and organ concerts are also organized.
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We didn't go to church. We had more carnal needs. At 2/14 on Bryusov Lane there is this Meat Point street-format establishment, where they cook Turkish national cuisine... A kind of "Window to Turkey" was advised by my son, saying that there is very tasty Turkish kufta (lavash with lamb, vegetables and spices) for 200 rubles, which is cooked in front of you (you can watch the cooking process on the monitor screen). You can also order Turkish coffee, tea or other drinks. The establishment turned out to be popular. There were several people in front of us, and the girl took the order, which she left, as I understood it, over the phone. For ever-running Moscow, such a food format is very suitable. And we also liked the kyufta.
Resurrection on the Uspensky vrazhka (Bryusov per., D. 15/2, p. 3). The church has survived many fires, and yet it never closed, even during Soviet times, which is a rarity for Moscow. It was not closed at the request of many famous actors and composers who lived in the area. Therefore, this church was and still remains one of the most visited in the center of Moscow. It has a special atmosphere, the interiors of the last quarter of the 19th century have been preserved, when the church was re-painted and received the existing iconostases, in which old icons are located, some of them are especially revered. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit this temple normally, but it’s not worth just running into such a place. So we went further.
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In this area, due to the proximity to the conservatory, many cultural figures lived and live. The House of Composers is also located here. Several monuments to famous composers have been erected around. Opposite the church in 2012, in honor of the 85th anniversary of his birth, a monument to Mstislav Rostropovich was erected, created famous sculptor Alexander Rukavishnikov.
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And in the courtyard of the House of Composers there is a monument to Aram Ilyich Khachaturian, which was created at the expense of the Yerevan Municipality and donated to Moscow in 2006, the Year of Armenia in Russia. The authors of the monument were sculptor Georgy Frangulyan and architect Igor Voskresensky.
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We pass by the House of Composers and past the Church of the Assumption on the Uspensky vrazhka (Gazetny lane, 15) we leave on Gazetny lane, turn left towards Tverskaya street. On the clock of the Central Telegraph 18-20, which means that we got from the Gorky Museum to this place in 50 minutes. It was decided to build the Central Telegraph building in 1925, it included a radio center and a long-distance telephone exchange. The project by Ivan Rerberg won in an open competition, according to whose design the building has already been built Kievsky railway station in Moscow. Note the coat of arms near the clock. Here the hammer and sickle are not located side by side, but along the edges. This was one of the first versions of the coat of arms of the Soviet Union.
For lovers of fast food - opposite the Telegraph is located "McDonald's" (the second of the opened in our country, the first was - on Tverskaya, near the Tverskaya metro station). And we reach the crossing over Tverskaya. Take a look at the expanded and renovated pedestrian zone, the Kremlin and Manezhnaya Square ahead.
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And we ourselves are leaving for the pedestrian zone, which was recently opened in the center of Moscow, but it has become so beloved by residents and guests of the capital. This zone begins from Tverskaya with Kamergersky lane, on which we go.
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A number of programs are designed in such a way that the trip takes place during the holidays. Outdoor activities are the best way to fill your little vacation with events. A full-fledged journey and exciting impressions remain in the memory.
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How to show the city to someone who is in the capital for the first time? Kremlin, Red Square, Cathedral of Christ the Savior? A frantic attempt to plan a route results in the most standard set. But I want Moscow to be remembered not only by the usual postcard set, but also by something special. The route includes several amazing back streets that will be a novelty even to the indigenous people.
Walk down the street. Bolshaya Lubyanka 250m.
Walk along Varsonofyevsky Lane, turn right and go up to Zvonarsky Lane, turn left and walk straight to Ul. Petrovka, then turn right and walk straight to Petrovsky Lane, turn left and walk 150 meters.
Go down the street. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 250 meters, turn right and walk through Tverskaya Square.
Go down the street. Tverskaya 150 meters and go to the courtyard of house number 6.
Exit back to st. Tverskaya, go down 100 meters, turn left onto Kamergersky per. and walk 100 meters.
Facing the Bolshoi Theater, look to the right - this is TSUM
