The place of action is the beginning of May 2017, we are in Paris and we have a week. Beckoned for a long time northern regions France, and therefore it was decided to spend this week on them.
Our route looked like this (map):
Day 1: Giverny - Rouen
Having jumped into the rented car, we leave the unloved Paris.
On the way to Rouen, the gateway to Normandy, there is at least one place worth visiting - the Claude Monet House Museum. If you want to see firsthand the water lilies that inspired the master to numerous canvases and glorified him, be sure to stop by Giverny (about 80 km from Paris).
The city of Rouen is notorious for the fact that it was there that poor Jeanne d'Arc was burned at the stake. If we ignore this sad event, then the city is very beautiful and definitely worth a visit.
Hotel: I can recommend the Mercure Rouen Center Cathedrale (there is nowhere in the center, there is underground parking, everything is new).
Food: Don't miss the market on main square, and especially the fish shop, where the freshest seafood is prepared right in front of you.
Day 2: Etretat - Fecamp
At 100 km from Rouen is the town of Etretat - a place of attraction for all tourists in Normandy.
It is in this place, on both sides of the town, limestone sheer cliffs that Monet loved to draw so much! The view from the cliffs is really fascinating .. The ascent uphill is quite difficult, however, both elderly people and with small children climb.
If you are lucky enough to find a decent hotel in Etretat, then you can spend the night right there and admire the white cliffs in the evening illumination. There were no places for my dates in local hotels, so we "had to" spend the night in the town of Fecamp, which is 20 km from Etretat.
Fecamp is a small port town known for the fact that it was here that Benedictine monks invented the famous Benedictine tincture. They say that the recipe was lost, but in the last century some enterprising person "found" it and amassed a huge fortune in the production of the drink. Benedictine on ice is wonderful! The town has a whole palace-museum dedicated to this liquor.
Note: The Norman coast is notorious for the battles that took place here during the Second World War. On the way there are many memorial tablets, fortifications, forts. There is also a huge cemetery and memorial. Everyone decides for himself whether to visit places of military glory while traveling in Normandy, or to limit himself only to historical and natural cities and attractions.
Rennes - pretty Big city, which did not impress me particularly with anything. A good stop-over for an overnight stay, no more.
Day 7: Tours - Vouvray - Amboise
When planning a route through Normandy and Brittany, I had a couple of "extra" days, which it was decided to spend on the Loire Valley!
The Loire Valley is a famous wine-growing region, stretching practically from the ocean to the middle of France. Vineyards are located on both sides of the river (the river itself, by the way, is not at all expressive and not pretty).
Whistling 250 km from Rennes, we made a short stop and stretched our legs in Tours, and from Tours along the Loire River we drove towards wineries.
I can recommend (1) an excursion and testing at the Marc Bredif winery in the Vouvray region - the guide speaks good English, the tasting is not expensive, as is the wine itself (there is even sparkling wine), (2) the biodynamic winery Domain Vigneau-Chevreau (no excursion, tasting and sale only), as well as (3) family winery Caves du Pere Auguste - headed by the founder's grandson, almost only family members work there!
Hotel: In the Loire Valley, I really wanted to stay in an old chateau, preferably with a good restaurant. After a long search, the choice fell on the Chateau de Pray, founded in 1244! Very beautiful interiors, small but well-groomed area.
Food: The chateau has a restaurant of the same name with one Michelin star, reservation is required. In short - the food is delicious, but the service is horribly slow and long! Our two meals lasted 3.5 hours !! It is impermissible, in my opinion, to torment the guests like that!
Day 8: Chenonceau - Sancerre
The Loire Valley is famous not only for its wines, but also for its castles, of which there are several dozen. One of the most famous is the Chenonceau castle, built in the 16th century and belonging to different years Catherine de Medici, wives and mistresses of kings, etc. The interior of the castle is very well preserved, including furniture, carpets, fireplaces, etc. A notable feature of the castle is the gallery bridge built across the river Cher! During the Second World War, the opposite bank was occupied by the Nazis, and, they say, almost all the time guns were aimed at the castle, ready to destroy it at any moment, but by some happy coincidence this did not happen, and the castle has survived to this day in its original form!
The Sancerre appellation is a very famous wine-growing region in France and the most replaceable representative of the Loire Valley wines (right next to Pouilly-Fumé). The main grape variety here is Sauvignon Blanc.
Map
The town of Sancerre itself is located on a hill, and around the vineyards - the view is amazing! Having bought wine and cheese, we had a picnic right on the fortress wall =)
We didn't have time to book a tour of the winery, so we just stopped by for a tasting almost at the first available - Eric Louis.
Admiring Sancerre, crying over the ridiculous prices of local wines, we plunged back into the car and after some 210 km were already in Paris.
Beach holidays in France are usually primarily associated with the south and Mediterranean Sea... Meanwhile, the French, who know their country well, prefer the beaches of Normandy. You just need to choose the right time and place.
Deauville - rich mansions gorgeous beaches, the purest ocean ...
Northwest Regions The Fifth Republic, Normandy and Brittany, which, due to their location, are difficult for a Russian person to relate to beach vacation- firstly, the "north", and secondly, not formally the open sea or ocean, but the coast of the harsh English Channel, - attract mainly sightseers in the framework of short organized travel from Paris. However, traveling through Normandy - a picturesque green land with a rich cultural and historical heritage, fantastic landscapes and no less glorious gastronomic specialties - is more entertaining than Mediterranean resorts. It is best to go here at the peak of summer, in July-August, when it is hot almost everywhere in France, and even the water in the English Channel warms up to an acceptable temperature for swimming. The beginning of September is also a good time: it is still quite warm, and in addition, Deauville is hosting the famous film festival of American cinema, which, in terms of the scale and level of visiting stars, can be called, if not a "little brother", then certainly a "cousin" of the famous Cannes Film Festival.
In general, a trip to the cities of Normandy can be called a real delight for the moviegoer: a huge number of cult French films were filmed here, and actors of the first magnitude, such as Jean Gabin, Alain Delon, Lino Ventura, Louis de Funes, Anouk Aimé, Robert Hossein, Michel Morgan , and dozens of others often came here to relax and gain inspiration.
The most famous historical resorts of Normandy - Deauville-sur-Mer and Trouville-sur-Mer, the so-called "Parisian Riviera", or even "XXI arrondissement of Paris" - are connected with the capital by highways.
It is also not difficult to get here comfortably from Paris by direct train in just two hours. And for traveling in Normandy, it is best to rent a car to see the remote major cities natural attractions and better experience the incredible rural beauty of Normandy.
Trouville and Deauville, which appeared on the route map for the aristocracy a little later, at the beginning of the 19th century, were, like most of the now famous French resorts, small fishing villages, notable only for their picturesqueness. With the advent of fashion for sea bathing and sunbathing here, attracted by wide beautiful beaches, more and more wealthy tourists began to come, after which it was not long before the appearance of infrastructure for the rich and famous. The rapid construction of luxury hotels, private villas, entertainment facilities and the promenades at Trouville. And by 1870, this resort had blossomed and became popular with representatives of the highest circles of the European aristocracy.
Deauville-sur-Mer, Truville's twin brother, is separated from him only by the riverbed of the Tuc River. “If you go to the right, you will get to Trouville, and if you go to the left, you will get to Deauville” - a landmark if you stand facing the ocean in the port area. The territory of the resorts is quite compact, and while resting in one of them, it is not difficult to move to the neighboring one.
In the 1860s, when Trouville had nowhere to expand, a project for a Deauville resort appeared, sponsored by Dr. Oliff, the half-brother of Emperor Napoleon III, Duke de Morny and banker Armand Donon. The emphasis was placed on the prestige of the new holiday destination. On the former marshland, a town with huge hotels, casinos, a racetrack and a tree-paved promenade with carved bathing booths, which to this day remain one of the recognizable symbols of Deauville, grew surprisingly quickly. The "golden age" of resorts fell on end of XIX- the beginning of the XX century, when the magnificent imperial style of architecture was supplemented by luxurious buildings in the Belle Époque style. Despite the fact that many unique villas from architectural ensemble Deauville and Trouville were destroyed (after World War II or through the efforts of some zealous town governors), but today you can stay in most of the old historical hotels built at the turn of the last century and the turn of the last century. The famous five-star Hotel Normandy is still impeccable, often the setting for movies such as Baron de L'Ecluse with Jean Gabin. The Hotel Royal in Deauville is still luxurious, it still opens its doors to the players of the Grand Casino in Trouville ...
Walks along the historic boardwalk along the ocean in Deauville refer to one of the most romantic paintings of our time - "Man and Woman" by Claude Lelouch. If you want to have a cup of coffee or dine overlooking the ocean, you should choose Bar du Soleil, Bar de la mer or Le Ciro`s restaurant - these are establishments that trace their history since the beginning of the 20th century and have seen many famous guests. The resorts traditionally demand a casino, a hippodrome, and horseback riding along the coast. In the immediate vicinity of Deauville and Trouville, you can find the impeccable golf courses that Normandy is famous for. Thalasso therapy center and many spas, heated swimming pools sea water, a yacht club, tennis courts, shopping centers are located between the hotels and the boardwalk.
Embankment Honfleur
Visit the picturesque town of Honfleur, as if descended from the paintings of the impressionists, 15 km from Trouville. The heart of Honfleur and the main tourist attraction is its harbor, framed by charming old Norman-style mansions.
Continue along the 40 km Cider Route, which starts about 20 km east of Caen and passes through authentic small farm villages. Here one of the main specialties of Normandy is produced - apple cider and its stronger derivative - Calvados brandy, you can taste and buy all this. In addition, the region is home to the world famous Camembert cheese, and nowhere, except Normandy, you will find such a choice of varieties and flavors of this cheese.
Walk along the edge of the almost sheer cliffs around the village of Etretat (20 km southeast of the city of Fecans) and see the powerful cliffs-arches that have become one of the most recognizable symbols of Normandy in the world. Marvel at the deserted cliff-side beaches that are wild and striking with the power of the waves.
Visit one of the wonders of France - the island of Mont Saint-Michel with the abbey located on it, and in fact - perfectly preserved medieval town, the first mention of which dates back to 709. Mont Saint Michel is one of the most popular attractions in the country and is listed world heritage UNESCO, therefore, not to see him, being in Normandy, would be at least a shame.
See memorable places the second world. The northern coast of the region at the end of the Second World War became the site where the landing operation of the Allied landing forces, codenamed "Overlord", took place on June 6, 1944. The beaches of Omaha, Utah, Sward, Juneau and Gold became the sites of the bloodiest battles of the airborne divisions of the British and Americans with Hitler's troops. One of the most emotionally powerful sights in these places is the American military cemetery with seemingly endless rows of modest white crosses.
Read about the most interesting exhibitions, concerts, auctions and other significant events from the art world at.
Text: Elena Kurylenko
Finally, my hands got around to summarize the information on Normandy - not a lyrical part, but a more practical one. Hope it comes in handy if you intend to travel around these wonderful places by car. I will make a reservation right away that all of the following is personal experience, it does not pretend either to the absolute completeness of the information, or to the optimal route (although the route suited us very well in the end).
Where is it?
Normandy is a region in the northwest of France. It is divided into upper Normandy with a center in Rouen and lower Normandy with a center in Caen. From the southwest, Bretonne adjoins lower Normandy, which we also captured a little on our journey.
Why go there?
If you have already visited Paris, Venice, Barcelona, etc., and you want to discover new places in Europe - pay attention to Normandy. You are guaranteed a rich visual experience (landscapes, parks, architecture, rugged northern beaches), gustatory pleasures (cheese, cider, seafood, etc.), historical excursions (as in ancient history Normans, and in the military operations of the Second World War - the famous beaches of "D-Day"), and surprisingly pleasant locals... They speak decent English and are very tourist friendly but not intrusive - perfect combination!
When to go?
The best season is from about April-May to the end of October. Since November, many attractions and farms are closed for visiting (out of season), and the weather becomes nasty. Normandy is already the rainiest region in France (and they never get tired of joking around on this topic), and in winter the rain is cold and the daylight hours are short. We drove in early October - it was, to put it mildly, not hot :))) but this is no longer the peak summer season, when tourists are not crowded - it is easy to find places to spend the night, there are no crowds anywhere.
Idea and general planning of the route
Without pretending to be absolute truth, I will tell you only about our thought process. We originally wanted Jersey and Guernsey, the Normandy idea was born as a logical addition to them. Then we began to look for information about what is interesting in Normandy, marking the cities and places where it is definitely worth visiting (we turned out to be Rouen, Giverny, the beaches of the D-Day Beaches), Mont Saint-Michel, the road of cheese and cider ) and those that would be nice to visit, if possible.
Based on these estimates, and not wanting to move from place to place every day, we decided that we would book hotels in three strong points for several days - Rouen, Ken (or rather, a town near Ken on one of the landing beaches), San Malo - and will travel from there to other points. As a result, the tactics fully justified themselves, although on the spot it turned out that housing options, incl. inexpensive - a great variety (including farms and cute boarders, which are not available on international booking sites). So you can just go and look for an overnight stay along the way, especially not in the "hot season". But we are paranoid in this sense, we plan in advance :)
We flew to Paris in the afternoon (Charles de Gaulle airport), took the metro to Saint Lazare station and took the train to Rouen.
- Train timetables and booking tickets for French railways... It makes sense to book key tickets in advance, because it is possible to buy them in advance at cheaper prices. The reservation is printed and exchanged for a ticket at the train station at the SNCF office (or at other points - everything is written on the reservation). Important: do not plan a train trip "close to" important connections - in France, a strike is a norm of life, the likelihood of a train being late is great!
- Do not forget to make an international "booklet" to your rights before the trip to the traffic police! There is a problem in the Russian license - although all the data seems to be duplicated in Latin, but the descriptions of the categories are made only in Russian, which gives the rental company the right to refuse you (they may not refuse, but why risk it ???). It is also recommended to get international rights to Israeli rights (in MEMSI this is done in 5 minutes and 15 shekels) - Israel somehow signed some conventions there, so it's better to play it safe
- And be sure (!) Take with you a GPS navigator with updated maps! If you don’t have it, don’t spare the extra money (7-10 euros per day), rent it along with the car. Without a navigator, even from the very the best card, you will fray all your nerves in this region and spend a lot of time wandering! Yes, you will spend more on gasoline for these wanderings than on renting a navigator !!!
Currency
Euro, of course. Cards are accepted everywhere. The only difficulty in terms of currency that we encountered was that it was very difficult to change cash dollars (and we had a part of the amount in them). For example, in Rouen this is not done even in banks, only in the tourist office in the city center.
Language
French. But unlike Parisians, locals are fluent in English and don't frown when you speak broken French. Still, the proximity to England and the historical past are evident.
Food
France in general and Normandy in particular is a culinary paradise. The food here is really delicious, and the food here is not just a life-supporting necessity, but a separate experience and pleasure. Of course, try local cheeses, pears (oh, what juicy pears are here!), Cider, pommo - a mixture of Calvados and cider (but Calvados itself is a stool :))), pastries, seafood (including oysters - for lovers).
We did this - in the morning we had breakfast in a hotel or in a nearby coffee shop, dined in a restaurant, finding a profitable and tasty formule - like a set lunch, for dinner we bought cheeses, cider, baguette, apples-pears, sausages or hams, and had a picnic. It could be more economical, but we decided that pleasure is our priority. Personal recommendation - restaurant L "Orbecquoise in the small town of Orbec near Lisieux.
Car affairs
Toll roads- there are a lot of them in France! Usually these are autobahns and major roads connecting the regions of the country, as well as bridges (the most famous is the Normandy Bridge). Cost - from 2 to 6 euros, each road has its own. Pay at checkpoints (sometimes at the entrance, sometimes at the exit, sometimes both there and there - keep your receipts to leave!), There are signs on the road warning that the track is toll. It is best to carry small change for payment, although bills and cards are also accepted (cards are not all, you need some kind of specific chip). A toll road always or almost always has a free alternative (you can set the GPS to go around them) - this is usually longer, but much more scenic.
Speed limits- city 50 km / h, out of town 90, highway - 110, autobahn - 130. There are cameras everywhere !!!
Gasoline- quite expensive and prices are not regulated by it, i.e. different at different gas stations (even at gas stations of the same company prices may differ!). Therefore, it is worth looking closely where it is cheaper.
Parking- usually free in small towns, in the center and large cities there can be paid zones with a payment machine (color-coded) or paid parking... In general, there were no problems with parking, with the exception of the center of Rouen.
Tactical planning
We initially had a rough plan of what we were going to do on what day, but, of course, it was corrected along the way. We used the Rough Guide to Normandy and Bretonne for planning. We also actively used local tourist centers- they are in Normandy in every village !!! - do not ignore them, they will tell you about current events, give you all kinds of useful waste paper and maps, recommend a place to eat or stay overnight. Find out the dates of festivals and schedules of farmers' markets in different cities - both are worth a visit.
- Pay attention to the opening hours of museums, farms and other attractions so as not to stumble upon a closed door. The schedule can be quite exotic - the cheese farm can be closed for "lunchtime" from 12:00 to 14:00, and the museum is closed on Wednesdays and Fridays.
Hotel Stars Rouen is a basic nautical-style hotel. Normal place to spend the night, very reasonable price, free parking and easy access to the A13, the main road from Rouen. Convenient only if Rouen is not the main purpose of the trip, and there is a car, because not in the city center.
Hotel Le Canada, Hermanville-sur-mer - a hotel in a small seaside town near Ques and Bayeux, in a classic Norman half-timbered building, delicious breakfast, beautiful rooms. The disadvantage is in the middle of nowhere, the nearest cafe, for example, is a couple of kilometers away :))
Éthic étapes Patrick Varangot, Saint-Malo is a large hostel with a ton of different features and options (shared room, bike rental, different activities for guests). The disadvantage is very spartan rooms (although new and clean), they won't even put soap :))
Visa
Regular Schengen. To be honest, it was dreary for us to show all our movements at the embassy (especially since they were still in the planning stage by that time), so I booked for
Preparation:
In July 2009, I went on vacation to Paris with my friends Katya, Kolya and Dima.
The decision that we would take a car to go to Normandy was made by us a week before the trip. It just so happened. Only 7 days before the vacation it turned out that everyone has a desire to get to Mont Saint Michel, and the journey by bus-trains there will be very hemorrhoids and will cost a pretty penny.
The car rental option looked quite attractive. One small "but" slowed us down. Of the whole company, only I had rights, and my real driving experience was only 2 months: (In addition, I only knew how to drive a car with a gun.
When I started digging the Internet in search of a suitable car for rent, it turned out that there were NO cars. The automatic machine is rare in France, and again - the season :(. Well, that is, there were, for example, C-class Mercedes at some exorbitant prices, but nothing "average" was observed. an autobroker who provided us with a C3 with an automatic machine in the ALAMO rental office for 210 euros in 2 days.
1st day: Paris - Les Andelys-Etretat-Le Havre-Aromanches
The first problems of "dummies"
Red C3 was waiting for us in the parking lot of the Gare de Lyon. Dima, who took over the function of a navigator, for some reason was sure that the rental office would give him a navigator for rent. What naivety! If suddenly someone thinks the same, I hasten to disappoint you - the navigator is "leased" only in a set with premium cars, where it is simply built-in. Nobody will give you a separate navigator.
In our arsenal we only had the Michelin-starred road map of France, 1990 edition :)
The rental clerk gave us the documents and the key, drew on a piece of paper how to get out of the parking lot to the embankment. You had to go straight along the embankment to get to the Parisian Ring Road (originally Périphérique). Already from it we, according to all calculations, had to move onto the A13 highway leading to Rouen.
And then there was an entertainment called "departure from Paris" for an hour and a half. First, we accidentally passed the junction with Peripherik, and left on the wrong highway. Then they turned around, drove to the Peripherics, drove off it to the Parisian suburb of San Denis and wandered around it for at least half an hour in search of an exit to the A13. Then they found an exit, but missed a little - at the junction they chose the wrong tunnel, which eventually led us to the Parisian quarter of La Defense skyscrapers. Everyone was on their nerves, and they were already starting to swear, and then the heavens had mercy on us, and in just 15 minutes we were able to take the right direction.
On subsequent travels, I always took a GPS with me. Which I advise everyone. It greatly facilitates the life of a young car traveler.
On the A13 highway, we met the first toll station. Of course, I knew about how to enter it, how to pay, but I did not know about one important detail. If in your credit card there is no chip, it will most likely not work in the payment machine! Thank God, we were 4 adults with a variety of bank cards, one of which came up to the machine. It would be extremely inconvenient to give back and change to another queue.
First Joys: Les Andelys
Thanks to Katya, she dug up information about this scenic location and made us make the first stop on the route right here. The town is located 85 km from Paris and is famous for the castle of Richard the Lionheart and amazing views of the River Seine. The Seine here is not at all the same as in Paris.
The ruins of the castle proudly rise above the area.
We bought groceries at the supermarket, went up the hill to the castle and had a picnic there.
By the way, with all the incredible beauty and tourist value, there were not very many people here - literally one bus with tourists (they all scattered through the ruins), and 5-6 private cars.
Étretat
And that was my "fad" - to see the rocks and arches of Etretat. I've heard about him so many times, saw friends in the photo, and hurray, finally I'm here!
At Etretat, the pebble beach is very steep and inconvenient to enter the sea. But this did not stop us - we went swimming. Diving into the cold waters of the English Channel helped to relieve the stress of leaving Paris.
After resting a little on the beach, we climbed to take pictures on the famous rocks.
Normandy bridge and coast
The next item on our route was "Inspection of the Allied Landing Places." It was "dima's theme", he was responsible for this part of the route. By the way, there are war memorials almost along the entire coast. Even in the same Etretat there are several objects from the Second World War. And it's hard to say which of them are required to watch and which are less interesting.
Dima decided to head to some small town on the coast in the Caen region. It was in this area that the landing took place on June 6, 1944. Our choice fell on Arromanches. Dima knew this place from the game Call of duty :) We planned to spend the night there.
From Etretat we drove along the coast through Le Havre (where we got a little lost again), and then, across the Normandy bridge to the highway to the city of Caen.
The Normandy Bridge is the longest cable-stayed bridge in Europe. In fact, it is another attraction that attracts tourists to the region. We actually hit it by accident (it was not marked on my map of 1990, because it was built in 1995 :)), leaving Le Havre following the signs to the A13 highway. But of course they were impressed by the beauty and scale of the building.
The bridge, by the way, is paid, the fare for cars is 5 euros.
Only around 9 pm did we reach Aromanches. We were lucky, we found the hotel quickly enough. It was Wednesday to Thursday evening and seats could be found without prior reservation. Quite decent 2 *, 50 euros for a double room without breakfast.
By the way, if you are counting on an overnight stay in some small town on the coast of the English Channel, try to arrive there no later than 8 pm. At 10 in the evening, when we threw our things into the room and went to look for dinner, everything in the city was already closed, there was no kitchen in any cafe. We only managed to buy beer and some creepy burgers in a closing shop not far from the hotel.
2nd day: Allied landing sites - Mont-Saint-Michel - road to Paris
In the morning we had a wonderful breakfast in a restaurant overlooking the sea, walked along the beach, examined the local war memorials.
Then they took at the hotel a plan of the nearest locations of military fortifications during the war and headed there (15 minutes by car along the winding village paths).
After examining the German pillboxes and climbing the fortifications, we headed to Mont-Saint-Michel.
On the way, we stopped at a farm where we bought Calvados. Such farms are found everywhere on the roads of Normandy.
Mont-Saint-Michel
Well, I don't think it makes much sense to talk about him, because this is the second after Eiffel tower the most famous landmark in France.
Here are just a few practical tips.
I was in Mont-Saint-Michel 2 times - both times on weekdays. There are always a lot of people there. But in the summer there is just an incredible amount. I think you need to come there either very early in the morning, or already late in the evening, when the people have subsided. We got there about half past twelve, and got there at the most popular time. There were more people on the main street of the city than in the Moscow metro during rush hour :(
When you enter the huge parking lot at Mont Saint Michel, do not park at the beginning, thinking that there are no more places closer to the castle. Everyone thinks the same way, so there will be places closer to the castle. As a result, we, "successfully" packed at the beginning, walked one and a half kilometers to the castle and then back again.
The road to Paris.
On the way back we decided to take the N12 road through Alencon and Dieu.
As a result, our road home stretched for 5 and a half hours, taking into account a short lunch stop at a roadside inn.
So if your goal is to see the most interesting things in a couple of days and not die of fatigue, forget about saving on free roads. They are for short distance travel. In France, most of the normal tracks are toll. On our route, there was only one successful free motorway - the A84, along which we traveled from Caen to Mont Saint Michel. Everything there was like on a toll road: 2-3 lanes in one direction, maximum speed 130 km / h, in some places 110 km / h.
An ordinary free road (they are on the map with the letter N, "nationale", ie state) has one or two lanes in one direction. The permitted speed on it is usually 90 km / h.
In this case, road N passes through a heap settlements, where the permitted speed is 50 km / h. And if you find yourself in a section with one lane, and there is a tractor in front of you, then you will be slow to drive in a convoy behind it until the road widens or there is a rare opportunity to overtake it in a place where overtaking in an oncoming lane is acceptable.
So we scratched this national road. The only consolation for us was the sweetest provincial landscapes.
We arrived in Paris at about half past nine. Thank God, this time we managed to orient ourselves more or less normally, to find the Periphery first time, and the necessary interchange, the embankment, and then the Gare de Lyon and the parking lot.
I did not regret at all that we went by car to Normandy. Our route for the first acquaintance with the region turned out to be very good. Of course, we didn't see Honfleur, Deauville / Trouville, Rouen and Saint Malo. But nothing prevents you from visiting these places next time.
Good day!
We are going to France with my husband in June, we have already bought air tickets (St. are located in Normandy. In this regard, the question arose:
Can you please tell me if it is realistic, traveling by public transport, to see Giverny, Rouen, Etretat, Honfleur, Mont Saint Michel? How many days should be planned for these places? And where is it better to book a hotel so that it is convenient to get to all cities?
I went to Rouen last year by train from Paris - left at around 9 am, returned around 8 pm. I was very impressed, charming city, amazing main cathedral and exceptional churches and smaller cathedrals. But one day was enough for me to inspect the old part of the city and even wrap myself up in the local museum of forged products.
In Giverny I was passing through in the summer, but by car - according to my prevailing stamp - it is obviously possible to get there by public transport (train + bus), but with difficulty, mostly people came there tourist buses and machines.
I haven’t been in other places, so I don’t presume to advise.
Galinka2009, thanks!
It's easy to get to Giverny, I found out. The question is, should we go back to Paris that day or go to Rouen? Then where do you put your things while we are walking around Giverny?
And if you live in Rouen, is it really possible to independently get to the attractions that I listed in the first message? Maybe some of them can be combined in one day?
How many days do you have to travel in general? And how much time do you want to spend in Paris? With all my love for provincial France - first you need to understand how much you need for Paris, and then you can try to squeeze everything else in the rest of the time ...
Quote:
Absolutely real - a couple of years ago I made such a route personally.
I took hotels in Rouen (3n), MSM (2n) and San Malo (our journey went on). During the trip, I regretted that I had not taken to Etretat for a day - I only had to lick my lips during the day.
Quote:
Nothing like this!
Quote:
Then I immediately went to Rouen - I watched and all that, and from there I went to Giverny a full day, and to the second Étretat - and that and that is very convenient. Therefore, I took 3n in Rouen. And do not regret that you are passing Giverny from Paris to Rouen - but with things you will get in a straight line without weaving, and it is very convenient to return to Giverny from Rouen.
Quote:
And in no case should you squeeze in anything! - just spoil the whole impression. You need to travel around the province fully and slowly, and if you have not seen Paris yet, you must first explore Paris, or at some other time. I do not advise you to knead everything in one bottle.
HM....
Quote:
I really like it, but I'm impatient, and more than a day in one city (that is, sometimes day and night in a hotel) - having made a couple of circles around all the attractions in three to four hours, I usually figure out which nearby town I would like to dash for. impressions :) .... and when after that it will be possible to return to Paris.
Galinka2009,
we will have 10 days, although the 10th can not be considered (we leave early), but the 1st is almost full - we arrive at 10 am.
By the way, I am also impatient :-)) I always want to embrace the immensity - it is not known if I will return to this country ... I haven’t seen so many things yet ...
Probably, fans of Paris will not understand me, but I plan to spend 3 days on this city, no more. For some reason, he does not attract me at all (maybe later I will change my mind :-)), because of this, I never considered France as an object for travel before. Until I came across several provincial reports and a photograph of Mont Saint Michel on Vinsky's forum. Well, I didn't dare to visit France and not see Paris :-)) But still it is not a priority ...
Mademoiselleka,
How did you get from Rouen to Etretat and Honfleur? How long does it take (I looked at the map - it seems close ...) And how much time should you spend on exploring these towns?
9 days is great! Of course, it would be logical for you to loop the route, but here a little difficulty arises. As far as I understand, people usually get to Mont Saint-Michel via Rennes, Pontorson and Caen. But if you try to make the Rennes-Rouen crossing or vice versa, the railway message site voyages-sncf.com does not give a direct message between them - everything turns out through Paris ...
Inspired by the task, I figured out the following as one of the options:
Paris - Mont Saint Michel - Paris-Rouen - Paris
It turns out that from Rouen you can visit Giverny, Etretat and Honfleur, that is, it is worth spending three nights there ...
But with Mont Saint Michel, look at the reviews, there are options how to turn around in one day, or make one night in Rennes. In principle, if Paris is not a priority, there is just a chance to get some impressions from Ren too :))) Or, alternatively, you can look at the dates and buy a one-day organized excursion from Paris to Mont Saint-Michel ....
Then (if you stay overnight in Rennes) you can get the following - although there are a lot of options here:
Day 1 - Paris
Day 2 - transfer to Rennes + Mont Saint-Michel, overnight in Rennes
Day 3 - return to Paris and probably, as an option, immediately move to Rouen
(you just have to move between stations)
There you can, depending on your desire, spend 3 days with trips around Normandy, and then return to Paris (let's say on day 6)
If Paris is not a priority, you can even look at another city, for example, Reims.
The only thing is that with things it turns out a lot of crossings, it's tiring!
Galinka2009, thank you very much for your responsiveness!
Now I'm all in thought - my husband really wants to add Alsace, at least 2 days (to Strasbourg and Colmar), how to shove them ??? We'll have to give up something ...
By the way, I just discovered that on March 1, the Alliance Voyage excursion plan for the whole year was posted on the Infrans forum. And it turns out that on our penultimate day (on the eve of departure home) they have a full day excursion to Mont Saint Michel for 57 euros per person. So, let's probably turn to them ...
Then maybe a route like this:
1 day - arrival, we walk around Paris
Day 2 - Paris
Day 3 - Paris
Day 4 - Transfer to Strasbourg, overnight at a hotel in Strasbourg
Day 5 - Colmar, return to Strasbourg,
Day 6 - transfer to Paris, walk around Paris (or go to Giverny)
Day 7 - one of the Loire castles
Day 8 - Giverny (if you didn't go on day 6) or something else
Day 9 - MSM
Day 10 - flight home.
Somehow I don't really like it yet: - (((
Yes, I also found a schedule there - however, for the duration of my trip, they obviously decided to arrange a vacation for themselves :)) 57 euros per person is just a super price, take it! I figured that on May 6-7, if I suddenly decide to reserve tomorrow or the day after tomorrow, it will be about 80-90 euros, and since I usually buy a ticket the day before, it will be very expensive ... Again, it’s easier by bus. ...
About Alsace - obey your husband :)) Strasbourg is a fairy tale, with a slight touch of Germany, it is very worth visiting, from Paris by expressway about 3.5 - 4 hours. Colmar is cute but old part, where "little Venice" is very small.
Why throw Rouen away? It is close to Paris, an hour and a half by train. Maybe on the 5th day late in the evening you will return to Paris, and on the 6th you will go to Rouen and / or Giverny?
It is a pity that the Alliance has nothing on your dates ... But look at this company -http: //www.francetourisme.fr/uk/mont-sa ... rsion.html They, however, are more expensive, but more options excursions and it is possible to book in advance. I found information about them on some forum, the reviews were also good.
I also really want to go to Alsace, to Colmar even more than to Strasbourg, he reminded me from a photo of Rothenburg in Bavaria, where we really liked ...
Probably, then we will go to Giverny either on the 3rd or 6th day, and on the 8th day - to Rouen. What do you think?
Oh, thanks for the link !!!
About Giverny - I still can't say how to get there by public transport. Sncf, if you ask for Paris-Giverny, gives out the Vernon station, so from there you have to take another bus. That is, in time it will take quite a lot, too, almost the whole day. The main thing is for the weather to be good and everything to bloom!
Quote:
"Hobotov, don't flicker!" :)))
There is no need for such throwing - the best time you will spend on the train what you will regret very much! :)
So let's point by point ...
Quote:
Reasonable program, but Ruan crashes completely. + All the time you wander through Paris, of course all roads go through it, but this is how you get an excursion to "all the train stations in Paris" :) and not a trip.
What are you flying with? Take AirFrance, at a price often the same as Aeroflot, but you can be quite good at the right point for the same money.
Try this every day:
...
(sorry, the message fell through)
Try this every day:
1) Flight Moscow-Paris-Strasbourg (or moving to Strasbourg directly from SDG - 2.5-3 hours 60-90s, if the tickets are already on hand).
2) Colmar (30min 11th)
3) Here the question is - where did the Loire come from in your plan? ;) Have you decided to compress ALL of France in 10 days? - I really do not advise! From Strasbourg, you can easily get over to the Loire, but it takes a long time (more than 3 hours by train) and it is very difficult to get out to the north from it. So the advice: you go from east to west - optimally through Paris. Leave the Loire alone for the next visit, there will be enough castles for you and the MSM for now - do not try to pull yourself in three different directions from Paris.
Then the 3rd day: Strasbourg-Paris.
4) Paris
5) Paris-Rouen (10-21e 1-1.5h)
6) Etretat
7) Giverny
8) Rouen - MSM (transfer via Caen 40-50e 4h)
9) MSM-Paris (55-75e 3-4h)
10) Departure
It is possible (perhaps even more optimal) to twist this entire program exactly in the opposite direction with the same order. Then you have to go to MSM from SDG directly through Ren and Pontorson.
I will write separately about Etretat and Giverny. :)
Quote:
Ride for a day - not worth it: a long drive, with transfers. It is worth going with an overnight stay, especially with teenage children: this is a corsair fort! ;)
Quote:
Thank you very much, but I am not ready for full-fledged ones because of unspeakable laziness. : -R I smear all thoughts here on the forum. :)
Quote:
|
