Hiking along the old streets of Yalta. Unknown palaces of Yalta The history of the house in Yalta

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A descendant of the Meltzer family, Fyodor Fyodorovich was a merchant of the first guild, and also became the successor of a furniture factory inherited from his father Friedrich Johann Meltzer. Fyodor Fyodorovich skillfully managed the factory and achieved quite high results for his brainchild: the factory was popular with many people of that time, including influential ones. All products manufactured at the furniture factory can be called very refined, high quality and very graceful.

The factory also accepted orders for restoration work. Fyodor Fyodorovich was helped to manage the factory by his brothers: Ernest and Roman. In turn, Ernest, being a military engineer, helped Fyodor Fedorovich move the factory from one city to another. Roman was responsible for the decoration of furniture sketches. He had his place in the art workshop, where he created all his masterpieces.

The history of the house in Yalta

The mansion of Fyodor Fedorovich is one of the architectural monuments built in Yalta at the beginning of the 20th century. It is located at the address: Yalta, 43 Sverdlova Street. The first construction work began there in 1914. Engineer I.M. Kefeli. After the revolutions (February and October), the house is transferred to state use. Later, it will be used as a sanatorium for the military. From the 41st to the 44th year, the Gestapo was located in the house.

The architecture of the house of Fyodor Fedorovich Maltsev in Yalta

This two-story building looks like a small castle. The entire castle is made in the style of the Renaissance. Beautiful narrowed windows, which can be seen from Sverdlov Street, are made in the Gothic style.

The entire facade of F.F. Meltzer is executed in the Art Nouveau style with rococo elements. A patterned composition of concrete was laid in front of the main entrance; this platform served as a kind of resting place for those who saw off or met guests by the owners of the estate. A heavy wrought-iron fence depressing and delighting at the same time - at the entrance it resembles an old medieval castle, taking away all visitors in the era of that time.

Now the building is in a rather dilapidated state, but nevertheless the architecture of this room has been preserved quite well and upon closer examination you can see all the grandeur of this building.

The entire estate was previously leased to the sanatorium of the Ministry of Defense of Ukraine. Due to the deplorable state of the building, excursions were not conducted here.

Palaces in Yalta itself are usually unknown. Of course, it is impossible to call these beautiful architectural structures completely unknown - historians, architects and ... realtors know them - since these buildings are put up for sale, but the usual prices for these objects are so fantastic that they rarely find their buyers.


What surprised many of these palace houses, built by famous (and not so famous) architects, is their location.

V ancient cities mansions are usually located along rivers, but Yalta surprises with the fact that at the same Derekoyka visitors see only Soviet five-story buildings, and in order to find something more beautiful, you need to climb higher, into the mountains ...

And then I remembered the report read last year at the conference, here in Yalta. It said that the first naval minister of Russia, vice-admiral and count Nikolai Mordvinov was nevertheless a tyrant, and believed that "since they gave me this land, I will not give it to anyone." The entire territory from the current bus station to the Lenin monument belonged to him. It was planted with gardens and exotic trees, but despite the requests of the Yalta "mayor's office" to allocate land at least for a road, the count refused. So instead of the old road by the river, it was necessary to build new ones, on high altitude, over the hills surrounding the city by the sea.

This is how Pochtovaya (Sverdlova) Street appeared, along which they entered the city, it became popular, and new mansions appeared here, now mainly belonging to the Ministry of Defense. One of them - House of Architect Wegener- a beautiful, albeit rather abandoned mansion above Mordvinovsky Park, almost at the end of the current Sverdlov Street.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


This unusual building more than a hundred years ago was built for himself by the famous Petersburg architect Oskar Emilievich Wegener, known as the manager of the construction of the Alexander III palace in Massandra, as well as the palace of Count Mordvinov in Yalta and many famous Yalta buildings.

The building has preserved sculptures of white marble that can decorate a real palace.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


On the balcony you can see clearly the Masonic coat of arms with the image of a triangle, compasses, ruler and protractor.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


Glass windows are also unusual here. The mansion, which has a clear historical and architectural value, is now badly neglected; families live in it, who installed double-glazed windows in several windows, which disfigured the old look of the mansion. But even despite this, in general, in the former Wegener's estate, ancient window frames, doors, parquet floors, carved wood panels, fireplaces and tiles have been preserved.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


What is surprising: Yalta residents do not seem to notice in what beautiful houses, surrounded by wonderful parks, they live. Here's another house like this - mansion of princess Baryatinskaya"Uch-Cham" (Three pines), on the same Sverdlov street.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


The building belonged to the princess until 1918. And it was built back in late XIX century. Although the name of the architect is unknown, it is believed by the time of construction, by its style and materials that the mansion of Princess Baryatinskaya was built by the same architect Wegener.

Maria Baryatinskaya was well known to Yalta residents for her charitable and social activities, she devoted all of herself to helping the sick and needy. In the winter of 1918, she was arrested and spent several weeks in custody. In 1920, she left Crimea forever and died in America in 1937. This mansion of the princess was used for military sanatoriums, and in 1951 it was restored and reconstructed. Just recently it became known that it was acquired by a certain owner and organized a hotel here.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


Not wanting to build up his gardens below, and Count Mordvinov himself built his palace in this area. It was built in the spirit of the Renaissance and resembles classic Mediterranean villas.


And Nikolai Semenovich Mordvinov received the land in 1794 from Empress Catherine II "For zealous service to the Fatherland." He named the estate "Good Wasteland", its construction was started in 1898 according to the project of the St. Petersburg architect F. Nagel. And the work was supervised by the same architect Wegener.


And already the palace itself appeared here in 1901 - 1903, already under the great-grandson of Mordvinov, Alexander Alexandrovich II. In 1927, the Mordvinovs' house became the rest house of the People's Commissariat of Naval Affairs and also passed into the department of the USSR Ministry of Defense.


It is reported that at the end of the 2010s this palace of the Mordvinovs was put up for sale, and this object is considered the most expensive real estate sold in Crimea - they want more than $ 22 million for it ...

And Yalta began with a very small village of a dozen houses in the area of ​​the monument to Lenin - it was the so-called "Greek settlement", and many of the current districts of the city were distant villages - Ai-Vasil, Autka, Dereka, etc. all sides church of St. John Chrysostom.


But higher, on the mountain, is a lesser known Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, which was built in 1916 according to the project of the architect Maksimov for the "Alexandria sanatorium for the ranks of the fleet." The temple was built in the Old Russian (Byzantine) style. Such a “two-story” temple is the Vladimir Cathedral in Chersonesos. For a long time there was a collection of Old Russian icons in the church.


Photo by Elina Pristupa


If in the center of Yalta, on the Embankment, the palaces are not visible, then it is worth going into small courtyards - and you can find beautiful old buildings. In one of them, in the former hospital of Dr. S.N. Vasiliev, is now located Yalta Center for Children and Youth Creativity.


The building has not been repaired for a long time, according to the stories of Yalta residents, all the time someone wanted to take it away from the children, but it is being used for its intended purpose. The mansion is crowned by two griffins - these symbols of the Crimea, "strong as lions and free as eagles."


Another famous building of the city by the sea - Palace of the Emir of Bukhara, who was, by the way, "an honorary citizen of Yalta." The emir had two palaces here, and you won't get into the first and the second (the first is still under the jurisdiction of the Black Sea Fleet, although attempts are being made to make it a historical and architectural object).


The second (the emir's dacha) is located on the territory of the sanatorium "Uzbekistan" and is considered the property of this Central Asian republic. The two buildings were connected by a very long and winding road, which in tsarist times bore the name of the street of the same Emir of Bukhara. (Now Shcherbak Street). A description of the lower palace is available in many resources, and very little is known about the emir's dacha.


The building was built in oriental colors. It is surrounded by a beautiful park area, consisting of ancient and huge cypresses, palms, mammoth trees. At present, the territory of the sanatorium is declared a monument of landscape gardening and is protected by the state. Sad events in the life of Yalta were also associated with this dacha - white officers were tried here, after which they were led to execution in the mountains above Yalta, to Frolov-Bagreev's dacha, in a place that is now infamously known as Bagreevka.

Yalta is lost and modern. Photo excursion. December 19th, 2010

PART ONE
As an introduction

By the beginning of the 20th century, Yalta, from a Greek fishing village, as it was in the first half of the 19th century, turned into a real Russian Riviera. Here, among the picturesque landscape of the mountain range, having a villa was a matter of prestige, and, of course, only very rich people could afford such a luxury, who did not skimp on either an expensive project or rich decoration. Mansions of incredible beauty were built on the green mountain slopes under the guidance of the best architects. Oriental motifs, represented by "ethnic modernity *" and pseudo-Moorish style, were especially popular here. To a lesser extent, the neo-Greek style was in demand, as such, Art Nouveau, classical and baroque.

Considering the remains of estates, most of which are in a terrible state, one is surprised by the masterly work of stone and wood craftsmen. Wonderful architectural and artistic solutions please (with bitterness you realize that today it is hardly possible to restore these unique monuments, because there are no masters capable of repeating delicate manual work, and if there are, then it will cost a lot of money.)

The indifference of the Yalta residents themselves and the city authorities to the priceless decaying monuments of architecture, and the inaction to the incredible ugliness that is being built today, endlessly saddens.

* * *

Yalta embankment is perhaps the main attraction of the Pearl South Shore Crimea. It acquired its modern look in 1955, when, according to the project of the famous Crimean architect I. Tatiev, its restoration was started: the bank was fortified, pedestrian zones were paved, basalt and cast-iron fences were installed, and original lanterns were mounted.


View of the Embankment from Polikurovsky Hill


The Embankment opens with Lenin Square, with the statue of the same name in the center, the work of P. Yatsino, A. Fomin. And although Vladimir Ilyich came out not bad, his coat looks rather ridiculous in the summer sun ... The building of the Yalta City Committee of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union (in the background) is the work of the already mentioned architect Irakli Tatiev, who with blood won the portico and 12 columns from the "persecutors of architectural excesses".


Yalta Embankment is illuminated by beautiful Stalinist-Empire lanterns made of milky glass, painted with antimony oxide. This splendor, like nothing else, emphasizes the pretentiousness of the main street of the resort town.


In the center of the Embankment, a breakwater juts out into the sea above which the Golden Fleece restaurant soars. The very idea of ​​a Greek galley is not very bad, and organically links with the legend of the toponym Yalta (exhausted by the storm and long journey the Greeks, seeing the long-awaited shore, cried out: Yialos! Yialos! What the shore meant. However, this legend is false, for the word "yalos" did not exist in the ancient Greek language. And the city, most likely, got its name from the name of the Turkic commander Jalit). But the execution of this idea from cheap oilcloth and diode hoses clearly does not correspond to the pretentiousness of the place, and the prices requested in the institution.

These edelweiss umbrellas, established in the 60s, are not very bad either. They look especially beautiful at night, in the lower illumination installed during the "October" restoration of the Embankment in 2002.

View of the embankment after a grand restoration in 2002.




During this restoration, the embankment was covered with slabs of red and gray granite. Facades of buildings were restored, landscaping was carried out, and small architectural forms were installed. It was also planned to ban all remote trade, although it was not possible to cope with this to the end, and in the season the Embankment quite looks like an eastern spontaneous market.




On September 26, 2009, Metropolitan Lazar of Simferopol and Crimea consecrated a chapel in honor of the Cathedral of New Martyrs and Confessors of Russia, which was also rebuilt during the general restoration of the Embankment.


The first, a wooden chapel not far from this place was erected on August 15, 1881 in memory of the Russian Emperor Alexander II. In the original version, the chapel stood on wooden piles, but then, due to repeated destruction by the waves of the sea, a stone foundation was laid under it.


The fate of the chapel on the Embankment was dramatic. Having stood on the Embankment for more than half a century, in 1932 it was closed, and then dismantled "as unnecessary."

Villa "Sofia"


Villa "Sofia". Around this building of a tenement house, built according to the project of N.P. Krasnov in 1897, a scandal broke out at one time. Yalta residents were extremely outraged by the fact of the purchase of the destroyed and demolished building (in which the clinic was located) by the notorious singer Sofia Rotaru, with whose personal funds the building was restored, and today it functions as an elite hotel.
In front of the main entrance to the villa there is a terrifying composition based on the motives of Chekhov's "Lady with a Dog", consisting of a log-shaped woman, an amorphous dog, and a man with chicken thighs.
With its composition, clumsy execution and plasticity, this small architectural form is capable of killing a blue whale.

For most of those idly strolling along the Embankment, it ends with a four-star hotel "Oreanda", which is located not far from the confluence of the Uchan-Su river into the sea. The hotel, built in 1907, was immediately recognized as one of the best in the Yalta district.








In 1918, during the revolutionary events in Yalta, the hotel was used as a refuge and a defensive post for the Crimean opponents of the Bolshevik regime.
After the establishment of Soviet power in Crimea, the hotel building was nationalized, but it was used for its intended purpose. The "Crimea" guidebook advertised the "Oreanda" hotel in Yalta, for 50 rooms from two to ten rubles a day. At the beginning of the Great Patriotic War (1941), the hotel housed a military hospital. In the post-war period, the hotel "Oreanda" was transformed into a sanatorium, where soldiers and officers wounded during the war continued treatment. In the late 1950s, after a major overhaul, Oreanda again acquired the status of a hotel.




In the early 1970s, it was decided to reconstruct the hotel, with the condition of complete preservation of the historical appearance. The second renovation was undertaken in 2001.

A lot of wonderful buildings are concealed in themselves and the gateways of the Embankment.
For example, this utility room is lovingly decorated with carved wooden cornices.


In general, the south coast manor architecture is inconceivable without carved wooden details. Surprising is the virtuosity with which the openwork facades are made. Unfortunately, most of them are in disrepair and disfigured condition.



The Museum of Lesia Ukrainka, opened in 1991 on the occasion of the 120th anniversary of the poetess in the estate of the merchant Leshchinskaya, where Larisa Kosach-Kvitk lived for some time, is especially beautiful for its magnificent carvings.

It was here that the outstanding Ukrainian poetess wrote the cycles of poetry "Crimean Memories", "Crimean Echoes", the story "Over the Sea" and the dramatic scene "Iphigenia in Taurida"

However, my favorite estate in this area of ​​Yalta is a small mansion built according to the project of P.N. Krasnov, which once belonged to the outstanding Russian theologian, philosopher and economist Sergei Bulgakov. It is built, as, in fact, the L.Ukrainka Museum in the style of "ethnic" "Bakhchisarai Art Nouveau".

The history of this ethnic modernity is very peculiar, begun by the court architect of Alexander II, Ippolit Anatolyevich Monighetti (1819-78), who was inspired by the motives of the Bakhchisarai palace of the khans, and having reworked them, created the first Livadian palace (from which today only the palace church of the Exaltation of the Cross remains Lord). All the charm of this new architectural style, in turn, was appreciated by the leading architect of Yalta, the favorite of the courtyard, Nikolai Petrovich Krasnov, who erected more than a dozen buildings in a similar style, setting a fashionable vector for other architects of the peninsula.

Unfortunately, today the original appearance of Bulgakov's estate is disfigured. The polygonal masonry of the Gasprin limestone is plastered in places, in places covered with a "fur coat", the facade is crowned with air conditioners. The entrance was also changed, which initially opened from the second floor, where the stairs led (which is behind the gate on the left).


The initial design of Bulgakov's house.

Not far away is the Yalta Children's Art House, located in a building that housed a private gynecological clinic-boarding house before the revolution.

A huge two-story building built in the neo-Greek style, from interior decoration, alas, only the entrance hall and the staircase railings have been partially preserved.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Greetings! An independent excursion along the old streets of Yalta took us about two hours and now I can say for sure that you will not recognize the city until you visit its historic district. It is known that Yalta grew out of a small fishing village on Polikurovsky hill, it was there that all the flavor and spirit of the times were preserved. It was interesting for my niece to see, so we headed to st. Drazhinsky.

The article was updated on 24.05.2019.

The old part of Yalta is located next to the Lenin embankment and Massandra beach. It is enough to walk to the end of the street. Roosevelt and turn onto st. Drazhinsky. My niece and I visited the historic district for the first time, so we went the other way: we passed the embankment, turned onto the street. Ignatenka and up the stairs to the street. Sverdlov. Our goal was the old Yalta courtyards.

I liked this house observation deck on the roof, from there a beautiful panoramic view of Yalta opens.



The first to see the old buildings in need of restoration.


Some houses took part in the city competition AntiKrasnov, which was held by the Yug Yalta website. Anyone could send a photo of an ugly architectural object. This balcony, in the house on the street. Sverdlov, was named - "Yellow armored train".


There are many shops in the old area. Near st. Drazhinsky, 22 there is a grocery store that works around the clock. On the other side, on the street. Drazhinsky, 15 a - a brand store of Crimean wines "Massandra".


From st. Drazhinsky went down the stairs towards the sea and walked along the market street. To the right - shops, to the left -.


The boutique with Crimean herbal teas, aroma oils and other souvenir products has a very good assortment, although the prices are also high. Only the sea view was allowed to be photographed.


We returned back and continued the planned route. Here, as well as in the city center, there is a big problem with parking spaces and traffic jams often occur.

Street Drazhinsky or "Drazhinka" got its name in honor of the Crimean underground and revolutionary Yuri Drazhinsky, who lived in one of the houses until 1920.



All courtyards are hidden behind high stone fences and trellises and can only be seen by guests.

Another "masterpiece" of Yalta architecture.


And next to the parking lot. How harmonious everything is ...


There are different types of vacation rentals everywhere. The owners put the phone numbers on the fences and not only ...


We saw the passage to the courtyard, went down to look.







And this house did not even fit on its site, part of the balcony hangs over the sidewalk.


I did not choose objects for this reportage, I photographed everything that came across on the way.



Abandoned house.


We decided to go back and turn onto st. Danchenko, where the "Yalta favelas" begin. It was followed by st. Verkhne-Slobodskaya or "Slobodka".


I liked that even in the back streets the streets were clean.


We were looking for such old houses.


But the chaotic buildings hid all the beauty, revealing something completely different ...



We returned and walked along the street. Roosevelt.

Chapel of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker.

Hotel "Bristol" 3 *


Walk along Old Yalta - st. Ekaterininskaya

In May 2019, I decided to take a walk through another historical district of Yalta. If you want to see the oldest streets of the city, turn off the Lenin Embankment, next to the monument to Nikolai Krasnov, onto Ekaterininskaya Street.


Despite the proximity to the noisy embankment, there is a more secluded space here. There are not many old houses, maybe there will not be ten. They tried to give many of them a modern look, hiding the original architectural forms under the decoration.


In a beautiful corner under century-old pine trees there is a 19th century mansion - a department of the Yalta Historical and Literary Museum and a house where the Ukrainian poet Lesya Ukrainka lived for two years. Nowadays, various exhibitions are held on two floors.

Lesia Ukrainka Museum

Ekaterininskaya street intersects with st. Chekhov, where the pump-room of mineral and drinking water is located. Water composition: sulfate-hydrocarbonate, magnesium-calcium.

There are still many old streets and houses in Yalta. It is a pity that the demand for the most popular Crimean resort destroys historical part a city that needs protection. Every free piece of land is built up and incomprehensible constructions are molded. A tour of the old streets of Yalta left an ambiguous impression. I wanted to see the originality and old houses, not building chaos, from where even the sea is not visible.

Thank you for the attention!