Surfing was once a privilege of Tahiti's royalty. And he was not just entertainment, but a ritual that confirms and strengthens the authority and status of the ruler. Or depriving him. And although surfing has now become popular view sports, it is still not available to everyone. And it seems that modern surfers have inherited the ideology of the Polynesians: real "kings" strive to conquer the highest, most powerful and most dangerous waves.
Every surfer dreams of conquering a terrible and ruthless water element one day. We will tell you about the ten most dangerous and high waves for surfing.
Pipeline. Oahu, Hawaii, USA
This wave has already accounted for seven lives. Its height on average ranges from one to five meters. She is far from the title of "highest", in fact, the danger lies at the bottom of the ocean. The wave crashes against the mercilessly prickly reef that cripples and kills surfers. However, Pipeline is not becoming less popular. At the site of the wave formation, there are still many athletes eager for danger and adventure. Apparently, the game is worth the candle.
The main problem of surfing in these places is the lack of safe swimming zones, which creates difficulties for the rescue service. Getting to an injured or unconscious surfer on a jet ski is very difficult. Therefore, athletes rely on their own training and the ability to hold their breath for a long time.
How to get there
The beach where the Pipeline is formed is located near the small town of Pupekei and is called Pipeline Beach. The distance from Honolulu Airport to the beach is 50 km, travel time is about an hour.
From Honolulu Airport, take IH-1 W (JBPHH), then turn onto IH-1 W and continue towards Wilikina Dr, and then turn onto HI-803 towards HI-83 E, then continue towards HI-83 W (Pupukea). The beach is located on the Kamehameha Highway.
Waimea. Oahu, Hawaii, USA
In winter, the serene and calm Pacific Ocean is inhabited by giant twenty-meter monsters - the children of the storms of the North Pacific Ocean. Wave Waimea is formed "next door" to the Banzai Pipeline and is considered one of the first "monsters" conquered by pioneers in the history of surfing.
Big waves have claimed the lives of more than one athlete, but it seems that this only enhances the feeling of excitement. When the waves reach their prime, the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational hosts a big wave surfing competition.
How to get there
You don't need to rent a scooter and helicopter to try your luck and take a chance. You just need to get to Waimea Beach, which is located on the Kamehameha Highway, and grab a board with you or rent it there, on the beach. The landmark is Waimea Bay Beach Park.
Jaw. Hawaii, USA
The name of the wave Jaw (translated into Russian - "jaws") speaks for itself. Local surfers in 1975 nicknamed her in honor of the film of the same name released in the same year.
The wave "slams" with the speed of the jaws of a predatory animal and is just as merciless to any delay. In fairness, it should be noted that the analogy with the film was not drawn by chance: there are really many shark species in these places - from the usual gray ones to leopard and Brazilian luminous ones.
The wave reaches a height of 18 meters. This extreme size comes from the underwater reef. The only way to try to conquer the wave is to use a jet ski, which will take you to the place where the wave is forming. You can't cope here on your own, otherwise you can fall down from the 15-meter "wall". By the way, in addition to a jet ski, it would be nice to have a helicopter in stock, which will monitor your safety from above.
An Australian surfer once swept this wave at night. It seems that this athlete has not only a steel body, but also nerves.
How to get there
Jaws Beach, where the namesake wave forms, is located five kilometers west of Paia, an area on the north coast of Maui.
The Hana Highway runs along the entire coastline. The task of the motorist is to get on it from any adjacent street and then move north until the turn to the right between road signs 13 and 14. The dirt road will lead directly to the beach and to one of the most dangerous waves on the planet.
Mavericks. San Francisco, California, USA
The Mavericks wave reaches a height of 24 meters. For a second, this is an almost nine-story building. In addition, sharks are among the dangers. Although the opportunity to get to know these inhabitants of the underwater world is extremely small, the chances are one in a million. But the very realization of the possibility of such a meeting makes you periodically cast your gaze over the ocean, hoping not to miss the approaching "guests".
In 1994, a wave took the life of surfer Mark Fu. Rescuers could not find the body of the athlete for several hours. Many people assume that the leash (the rope, thanks to which, the board is not lost after the first fall), caught on the reef and did not allow it to float to the surface. In 2011, two more athletes failed to cope with the Mavericks.
How to get there
By car
To get to Mavericks Beach from Highway 1, drive through the Half Moon Bay Community, then turn north onto West Point Avenue until you reach the Pillar Point Marsh car park at the end of the road. From the parking area, go down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the trail to the pier.
By bus:
Travel time from the city to the beach is 50 minutes, the fare is $ 2.25.
At the intersection of Kelly Ave and Church Street, there is a bus stop from which SamTrans bus number 17 departs. Drive 18 stops to Pillar Point Harbor. Mavericks Beach is a 1.7 km walk from the stop. Turn left onto Harvard Ave and continue to the end of the road. Then turn right onto West Point Ave and continue to the Pillar Point Marsh car park. Walk down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the trail to the pier.
Teahupoo. Tahiti, French Polynesia
Teayupoo is called the queen of the waves. She is admired and at the same time feared by the most experienced surfers. They conquered it relatively recently: less than twenty years ago. The first was the fearless guru of big waves - Laird Hamilton, who, before taking the risk, thoroughly studied all possible "pitfalls". Since then, Teayupoo Beach has attracted surfers from all over the world.
Translated from the local, "Teayupoo" means "place of skulls or beheaded." Five people laid their heads at the feet of the "queen", including a surfer who stood on the board before he could walk with confidence.
On the beach where you can catch Teayupoo, Billabong hosts the World Surfing Championships every year. Riding such a wave and becoming the first means becoming the owner of a check for five hundred thousand dollars and joining the world elite of this sport.
How to get there
By bus:
Every day except Sunday, a bus with orange stripes departs in front of the entrance to the airport in Papeete with the words "Teahupoo" on the screen. The place where surfers ride is 800 meters from the coast. To get there, you need to rent a boat. There are many different companies on the shore that provide such a service. One of them is Taxi Boat & Surf Tahiti.
By car:
Distance from Papeete to Teayupoo - 76.7 km, travel time - 1 hour 37 minutes.
From the capital French Polynesia Papeete (Tahiti Island) from the airport to the beach can be easily reached by rental car. Follow the main road along the coast. In about 1.5 hours, you will reach the fishing village of Teahupoo. When entering the village after 100 meters, turn right onto Marina de Teahupoo. At the end of the street is Taxi Boat & Surf Tahiti, where you can rent a boat and other surfing equipment.
Nazare. Lisbon, Portugal
This wave is a real water monster on the Praia de Nazare beach - its height reaches 30 meters. This giant owes its record size to rare underwater geography, or rather to a canyon - a large gorge, the depth of which reaches 5 kilometers.
In 2013, the daredevil Garrett McNamara rolled down this 30-meter "wall" and broke the world record, entered in the Guinness Book of Records. At the lighthouse in Nazar, there is a small museum in honor of the record holder.
Athlete Maya Gabeira also risked riding the powerful element. The attempt was unsuccessful. Big waver from Brazilian Carlos Burle got even for this lady and walked around McNamara by 1.5 meters.
How to get there
By car:
From Lisbon Airport, follow the 2ᵅ circular road north. Then merge onto CRIL and head towards Cascais until the intersection with the A8 motorway. Take the Leiria exit and continue towards Nazare.
By bus:
There is no direct route to Nazare. You need to get from the airport to the Sete Rios bus terminal. This can be done either by taxi or by the Aerobus 3, which runs every half hour from the airport building (fare - € 3.50). Then you need to change to the Rede-Expressos bus. The journey takes approximately two hours. Follow the schedule and exact rates on this site.
Shipstern Bluff. Tasmania, Australia
The wave of Shipstern Bluff was discovered by a local surfer back in 1986, but kept everything a secret for a long time. However, you can't hide an awl in a sack. In 2000, the location was flooded with surfers from all over the world, despite the fact that getting to the place is extremely difficult and the skiing conditions are not the most favorable. If you dare, take a thick wetsuit, neoprene slippers and a balaclava with you, because the water temperature is very low - you won't be able to splash.
The only way to get to the wave is by renting a boat from the pier. But they say that all the obstacles are worth it.
How to get there
On the Port Arthur road from Nubeena, then via Highcroft Road to Stromlea Rd. You need to move to the end of Stromlea Road, which will lead you to Cape Raoul Nat.Park. In the car park you will see the Shipstern Bluff sign. Follow the signs and after walking for a couple of hours national park you will come out to observation deck Shipstern Bluff beach.
Cyclopos. Australia
The name "Cyclops" speaks for itself - an unapproachable monster that is difficult to defeat even with a jet ski. According to a ten-point school, the difficulty level is estimated at eleven - the wave rises almost vertically. The legendary big waver Ken Bradshaw, seeing the Cyclops, turned around and left without making a single attempt.
Of the obvious disadvantages: the remoteness of the nearest medical station from the place of wave formation (about two hours drive).
How to get there
By plane:
The Cyclopos wave forms off the coast of Western Australia, near the town of Esperance. Esperanza can be reached from Perth by local airlines. Travel time is 1 hour 35 minutes.
By bus:
The bus departs from the East Perth Railway station. Follow the schedule on the website.
Ghost Trees. California, USA
The wave on Pebble Beach is named after the white cypress trees that grow along the coast. From English "ghost trees" is translated as "ghost trees".
This wave reaches 25 meters in height and 6 in width. Perhaps the coldest and most "shark-populated" place in our top ten. It is advisable to carry a thick wetsuit with a special coloring to protect against sharks, which was developed in Australia especially for surfers taking into account the physical characteristics of shark vision.
How to get there
Pebble Beach is located in Monterey, which was proclaimed the first capital of California. You can get to the beach where you can catch this wave by car from the city of San Jose along the highway number 101. Distance from San Jose to Monterey - 116 km, travel time - 1 hour 11 minutes.
Dungeons. Cape Town, South Africa
Dungeons translates to "prison". The wave was awarded this name by a local athlete, who was covered by two eight-meter waves in a row.
The wave crashes on rocks in a place called Shark Alley, and this nickname is not accidental. The fact is that Dungeons is located near the habitat of seals, which are the main food in the shark's diet.
Since 2000, Red Bull has hosted the Big Wave surfer competition here.
How to get there
The place of formation of the "Prison" can only be reached by boat, which can be rented in the port of Bay Harbor. The harbor is located in the town of Hout Bay near Cape Town. It can be reached from the city center by bus 108 from Helgarda Station on Victoria Ave. Get off at your seventh stop, Atlantic Skipper. Then a couple of minutes walk down the avenue to the pier.
Waves are most often calming and mesmerizing to the person watching them. Just imagine: the beach, the setting sun is sinking in the ocean waves, one after another running white foam on the golden sand. Idyll, you say. Now imagine: strong gusts of wind, a chilling breeze and a huge 30-meter wave that rose right in front of you in a matter of seconds. Idyll, Big Wave Surfers will say.
Today we will tell you about the most famous spots with big waves: how and where these ocean Hulks come from and who is hunting them. Source: birdymag.ru
(14 photos total)
Mavericks, California
1. Perhaps these giant waves have become the most popular and familiar even to people far from surfing, and all thanks to the film "Conquerors of the waves" (2012), which tells real story young surfer Jay Moriarty, who conquered those very Mavericks. But now is not about that.
The spot got its name back in 1967, when three friends-surfers came to ride on an unnamed spot. With them was a dog - a German shepherd named Maverick, who loved to swim next to the guys. Leaving the dog on the shore, they took a boat to the line-up, but the dog still went after them. The boat had to be turned around in order to tie Maverick more tightly - the weather turned bad and it was unsafe for the dog to be in the water. In terms of skiing, that day was not successful: the guys were surfing near the coast, and the giant waves rising far in the ocean seemed very dangerous to them. Back on the shore, they decided to name the place after the dog, who was much more fortunate that day.
2. Since then, the small town of Half Moon Bay in Southern California has become a Mecca for surfers who do not know life without deadly waves. But not for everyone. For many years, the spot was a great secret, jealously guarded only by a select few. And all the rumors about the Mavericks were more like crazy nonsense. Only in the 90s, thanks to Surfer Magazine, the spot received wide publicity and became a magnet for everyone to gawk and break in killer waves.
3. These waves acquire such power due to the unique bottom topography: at a distance of about one and a half kilometers from the coast, the reef has depressions, which, like a pump, pump the wave with an additional volume of water coming from other deep-water reefs. But this is just a "meeting of a good friend on the doorstep": the waves themselves are formed long before approaching the shores of California. Mavericks, in their pristine state, are echoes of storms in the nearby North Pacific. Covering a distance of 320 km (ideal), the waves move south, driven by the westerly wind. Another important component for the great Maverick is the period with which the swell waves reach the reefs, this period must exceed 16 seconds. When all factors add up, a huge 25-meter wall rises in front of you.
Nazare, Portugal
4. Who would have thought that an ordinary fishing village would instantly become a surfer's center of attraction? And all thanks to the recently opened eponymous spot with truly frightening waves.
As with the Mavericks, the deep canyon of Nazare (Canhão da Nazaré) plays into the hands of surfers. This is the largest underwater gorge in Europe, stretching along the coast for 170 km. In some places, the width of the Nazare canyon reaches 5 km, and the depth is about 300 m.
5. Find a surfer
6. The waves of Nazaré are "fed" by strong Atlantic storms, the swells of which are moving to Europe. The canyon, like an arrow pointing straight to Praia do Norte beach, amplifies the power of the wave, and the sharp difference in depth between the gorge and the reef allows the waves to grow in height, reaching 30 m, and sometimes even more. There are plenty of madmen who have conquered such giants.
7. Take, for example, the Guinness World Record holder, American Garrett McNamara, who in 2011 rode a 23.7-meter wave. And two years later, he multiplied his success, conquering the 30-meter giant in the same Nazar. The deadly storm "Saint Jude" helped the Brazilian Carlos Burle to outrun McNamara by 1.5 meters. By the way, Burle's girl - big wave surfer Maya Gabeira - almost said goodbye to her life, falling from a giant wave in Nazar.
Garrett McNamara catches the monster Nazaré
Jaws, Hawaii
8. Hawaiian spot Jaws ("Jaws") on the north coast of Maui is pleased to open its jaws to everyone from November to March. This name was christened by local surfers in 1975 in honor of the just-released blockbuster of the same name by Steven Spielberg. The waves rising here really look like the unpredictable behavior of a shark: suddenly, a completely friendly wave can turn into an 18-meter monster.
9. The Jaws are coming thanks to the storms of the Pacific Ocean's big-wave entertainment. These high, fast and powerful waves attract town-in-surfers. those who get on the wave by towing on a jet ski. By the way, this method was invented precisely on the "Jaws" spot in the 1980s.
10. "Jaws" appear due to the underwater ridge, which appeared as a result of a volcanic eruption. The ridge abruptly slows down the rapid movement of the swell driven by sharp gusts of wind, and the reef, concentrating all this mass, brings it down into a certain place... In the same place where the XXL Big Wave Awards will take place on May 1.
"Jaws": surfer for mom, surfer for dad ...
Teahupoo, Tahiti
11. Spot Teahupu (or rather, in the local dialect the name is pronounced as "Chopu") is located in the southwest of the main island of French Polynesia - Tahiti in Pacific... Translated, the name sounds like “to take your head off” and it justifies itself. Of course, it appeared as a result of bloody tribal wars that took place in these parts hundreds of years ago. But these days it does not lose its relevance. And all because giant heavy waves rise 500 meters from the coast and collapse on reefs slightly covered with shallows, sharp as a thousand knives. This is the merit of the strong south-western swell, carrying the left wave, and the unique semicircular "jagged" relief of the reef, steeply going down, allows it to show itself in all its insidious heavy beauty. It seems that giants simply grow out of nowhere.
Rhys Wartenberg, surfer, traveler: “When I got out of the water after my first cruel“ kiss ”with the reef in Chopu (on the thigh), one of the surfers stretching on the shore said that I was lucky to not grab this beauty in my face. And then I realized: yes, damn it, I really am lucky! "
Chopu is included in the list of "Top 10 Deadly Waves" by Transworld Surf magazine. The full power of the "daredevil" was experienced in 2000 by the surfer Bruce Taerea. An unsuccessful attempt by a duck dive to dive into a 4-meter wave ended in death for a professional athlete: a powerful wave pushed the athlete out, throwing him onto the reef. Bruce fell into a coma from a fracture of his neck and spine, and then died in the hospital.
Chop gave
Pipeline, Hawaii
12. What can we say, Hawaii is the historical homeland of surfing, attracting riders of all levels and ages to its waves. But big wave hunters have a certain point here - the Pipeline spot on the coast of Oahu, or rather, on Banzai Beach. In winter, huge (up to 10 meters) pipes rise here, which, closing in shallow water, add another 10 points to the level of danger.
13. It is noteworthy that depending on the size of the incoming swell, the wave on the Pipeline breaks into several peaks, the most worn out of which is First Reef. It is logical, because the reef that goes into the ocean is divided into three parts by depressions, which give the incoming waves additional power. When faced with shallow water, all this huge mass collapses, creating a perfect but damn dangerous pipe.
Speaking of pipes. The spot Pipeline got its name, surprisingly, not at all for the features of the waves. It was 1961 when director Bruce Brown decided to shoot a few guys on nameless waves for his surf film Finding Summer. And very close by, work was underway to lay underground communications in the ocean. That's how Brown christened the place - "Pipeline" - very unromantic.
14. Since the 1970s, The Billabong Pipeline Masters has been held here annually, in which the strongest athletes fight against the elements for a prize of $ 425,000. But everything is not so rosy: since 2000, six deaths of professional surfers and photographers have been recorded here.
Of course, these are not the only places on earth where you can come face to face with huge waves. But to find out, and most importantly, to understand all of them, you need to make a lot of effort. Not only physical, but also mental. After all, big wave surfing is a deadly enterprise. And for those who still dream of riding, for example, Mavericks, we have come up with a motto: “Study. Go for a ride. Conquer. "
What caused the appearance of most of the waves in the oceans and seas, about the destructive energy of waves and about the most gigantic waves, and the largest tsunamis that man has ever seen.
Highest wave
Most often, waves are generated by the wind: air moves the surface layers of the water column at a certain speed. Some waves can accelerate up to 95 km / h, while the wave can be up to 300 meters long, such waves travel huge distances across the ocean, but most often their kinetic energy is extinguished, consumed even before they reach land. If the wind dies down, then the waves become smaller and smoother.The formation of waves in the ocean obeys certain patterns.
The height and wavelength depend on the wind speed, on the duration of its impact, on the area covered by the wind. There is a correspondence: highest height the wave is one-seventh of its length. For example, a strong breeze generates waves up to 3 meters high, an extensive hurricane - on average up to 20 meters. And these are already truly monstrous waves, with roaring foam caps and other special effects.
The highest ordinary wave, 34 meters, was recorded in the Agulhas ( South Africa) in 1933 by sailors on board the American ship "Ramapo". Waves of this height are called "killer waves": in the gaps between them, even a large ship can easily get lost and die.
In theory, the height of normal waves can reach 60 meters, but those have not yet been recorded in practice.
In addition to the usual wind origin, there are other wave formation mechanisms. An earthquake, a volcanic eruption, a sharp change coastline(landslides), human activities (for example, testing nuclear weapons) and even the fall into the ocean of large celestial bodies - meteorites.
The biggest wave
This is a tsunami - a serial wave that is caused by some powerful impulse. The peculiarity of tsunami waves is that they are quite long, the distance between the crests can reach tens of kilometers. Therefore, in open ocean tsunami does not pose a particular danger, since the average wave height is no more than a few centimeters, in record cases - a meter and a half, but the speed of their propagation is simply inconceivable, up to 800 km / h. From a ship in the open sea, they are not visible at all. The tsunami acquires a destructive force as it approaches the coast: reflection from the coast leads to compression of the wavelength, but the energy does not disappear anywhere. Accordingly, its (wave) amplitude increases, that is, its height. It is not difficult to conclude that such waves can reach much higher heights than wind waves. 
The worst tsunamis occur due to significant disturbances in the seabed topography, for example, tectonic faults or shifts, due to which billions of tons of water begin to dramatically move tens of thousands of kilometers at a speed jet plane... Catastrophes occur when all this mass slows down on the coast, and its colossal energy first goes to increase the height, and eventually falls on the land with all its might, a water wall.
The most "tsunamo-dangerous" places are bays with high banks. These are real tsunami traps. And the worst thing is that a tsunami almost always comes suddenly: in appearance, the situation at sea can be indistinguishable from an ebb or flow, an ordinary storm, people do not have time or do not even think to evacuate, and suddenly a giant wave overtakes them. The warning system has been developed in few places.
Territories with increased seismic activity are areas of special risk in our time. No wonder the name of this natural phenomenon is of Japanese origin.
The worst tsunami in Japan
The islands are regularly attacked by waves of various calibers, and among them there are truly gigantic ones, entailing human casualties. Earthquake near east coast the island of Honshu in 2011 caused a tsunami with a wave height of up to 40 meters. The earthquake is rated as the strongest in the recorded history of Japan. The waves struck along the entire coast, together with the earthquake, they claimed the lives of more than 15 thousand people, many thousands were missing. 
Other highest wave in the history of Japan collapsed in 1741 to the west of the island of Hokkaido as a result of a volcanic eruption, its height is approximately 90 meters.
The biggest tsunami in the world
In 2004, on the islands of Sumatra and Java, the tsunami caused by a strong earthquake in the Indian Ocean turned into a major disaster. Killed, according to various sources, from 200 to 300 thousand people - a third of a million victims! To date, this particular tsunami is considered the most destructive in history. 
And the record holder for the height of the wave is named "Lituya". This tsunami, which swept through Lituya Bay in Alaska in 1958 at a speed of 160 km / h, was triggered by a giant landslide. The wave height was estimated at 524 meters.
Meanwhile, the sea is not always dangerous. There are "friendly" seas. For example, not a single river flows into the Red Sea, but it is the cleanest in the world. ...
Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Zen
5 of the most famous surf spots where legendary huge waves come
The biggest
waves of the world
5 of the most famous surf spots,
where do the legendary
huge waves
Waves are most often calming and mesmerizing to the person watching them. Just imagine: the beach, the setting sun is sinking in the ocean waves, one after another running white foam on the golden sand. Idyll, you say. Now imagine: strong gusts of wind, a cooling breeze and a huge 30-meter wave that rose right in front of you in a matter of seconds. Idyll, Big Wave surfers will say. Today we will tell you about the most famous spots with big waves: how and where these ocean Hulks come from and who is hunting them.
Mavericks, California
Perhaps these giant waves have become the most popular and familiar even to people far from surfing, and all thanks to the film "The Conquerors of the Waves" (2012), which tells the real story of the young surfer Jay Moriarty, who conquered those very Mavericks. But now is not about that. The spot got its name back in 1967, when three friends-surfers came to ride on an unnamed spot. With them was a dog - a German shepherd named Maverick, who loved to swim next to the guys. Leaving the dog on the shore, they took a boat to the line-up, but the dog still went after them. The boat had to be turned around in order to tie Maverick more tightly - the weather had deteriorated badly, and it was unsafe for the dog to be in the water. In terms of skiing, that day was not successful: the guys were surfing near the coast, and the giant waves rising far in the ocean seemed very dangerous to them. Back on the shore, they decided to name the place after the dog, who was much more fortunate that day.
Since then, the small town of Half Moon Bay in southern California has become a mecca for surfers who do not know life without deadly waves. But not for everyone. For many years, the spot was a great secret, jealously guarded only by a select few. And all the rumors about the Mavericks were more like crazy nonsense. Only in the 90s, thanks to Surfer Magazine, the spot received wide publicity and became a magnet for everyone to gawk and break in killer waves.
These waves acquire such power due to the unique bottom topography: at a distance of about one and a half kilometers from the coast, the reef has depressions, which, like a pump, pump the wave with an additional volume of water coming from other deep-water reefs. But this is just a "meeting of a good friend on the doorstep": the waves themselves are formed long before approaching the shores of California. Mavericks, in their pristine state, are echoes of storms in the nearby North Pacific. Covering a distance of 320 km (ideal), the waves move south, driven by the westerly wind. Another important component for the great Maverick is the period with which the swell waves reach the reefs, this period must exceed 16 seconds. When all factors add up, a huge 25-meter wall rises in front of you.
Nazare, Portugal
The waves of Nazaré are "fed" by strong Atlantic storms, reaching a height of over 30 m.
Who would have thought that an ordinary fishing village would instantly become a surfer's center of attraction? And all thanks to the recently opened eponymous spot with truly frightening waves. As in the case of the Mavericks, the deep Nazaré canyon ("Canhão da Nazaré") plays into the hands of surfers. This is the largest underwater gorge in Europe, stretching along the coast for 170 km. In some places, the width of the Nazare canyon reaches 5 km, and the depth is about 300 m. The waves of Nazare are "fed" by strong Atlantic storms, the swells of which move to Europe. The canyon, like an arrow pointing straight to Praia do Norte beach, increases the power of the wave, and the sharp difference in depth between the gorge and the reef allows the waves to grow in height, reaching 30 m, and sometimes even more. There are plenty of madmen who have conquered such giants. Take, for example, the Guinness World Record holder, American Garrett McNamara, who ridden a 23.7-meter wave in 2011. And after 2 years, he multiplied his success, conquering, all in the same Nazar, the 30-meter giant. The deadly storm "Saint Jude" helped the Brazilian Carlos Burle to outrun McNamara by 1.5 meters. By the way, Burle's girl - big wave surfer Maya Gabeira - almost said goodbye to her life, falling from a giant wave in Nazar.
Jaws, Hawaii
Hawaiian spot Jaws (Jaws) on the northern coast of Maui is pleased to open its "jaws" for everyone from November to March. This name was christened by local surfers in 1975 in honor of the just-released blockbuster of the same name by Steven Spielberg. The waves rising here really look like the unpredictable behavior of a shark: suddenly, a completely friendly wave can turn into an 18-meter monster. Jaws comes from storms of the Pacific Ocean's big wave entertainment. These high, fast and powerful waves attract town-in-surfers. those who get on the wave by towing on a jet ski. By the way, this method was invented precisely on the Jaws spot in the 1980s. Jaws are formed due to the underwater ridge that appeared as a result of a volcanic eruption. The ridge abruptly slows down the fast movement of the swell driven by sharp gusts of wind, and the reef, concentrating all this mass, brings it down in a certain place. In the same place where the XXL Big Wave Awards will take place on May 1.
Teahupoo, Tahiti
Spot Teahupu (or rather, in the local dialect, the name is pronounced as "Chopu") is located in the southwest of the main island of French Polynesia - Tahiti in the Pacific Ocean. Translated, the name sounds like “to take your head off” and it justifies itself. Of course, it appeared as a result of bloody tribal wars that took place in these parts hundreds of years ago. But these days it does not lose its relevance. And all because giant heavy waves rise 500 meters from the coast and collapse on reefs slightly covered with shallows, sharp as a thousand knives. This is the merit of the strong south-western swell, carrying the left wave, and the unique semicircular "jagged" relief of the reef, steeply going down, allows it to show itself in all its insidious heavy beauty. It seems that giants simply grow out of nowhere.
Rhys Wartenberg
Surfer, traveler
“When I got out of the water after my first cruel 'kiss' with the reef in Chopu (on the hip), one of the surfers stretching on the shore said that I was lucky to have not grabbed this beauty with my face. And then I realized: yes, damn it, I really am lucky! "
Chopu is listed in the Top 10 Deadliest Waves by Transworld Surf magazine. In 2000, surfer Bruce Taerea experienced the full power of the "rip-head". An unsuccessful attempt by a duck dive to dive into a 4-meter wave ended in death for a professional athlete: a powerful wave pushed the athlete out, throwing him onto the reef. Bruce fell into a coma from a fracture of his neck and spine, and then died in the hospital.
Pipeline, Hawaii
What can we say, Hawaii is the historical homeland of surfing, attracting riders of all levels and ages to its waves. But big wave hunters have a certain point here - the Pipeline spot on the coast of Oahu, or rather, on Banzai Beach. In winter, huge (up to 10 meters) pipes rise here, which, closing in shallow water, add another 10 points to the level of danger. It is noteworthy that depending on the size of the incoming swell, the wave on the Pipeline breaks into several peaks, the most worn out of which is First Reef. It is logical, because the reef that goes into the ocean is divided into three parts by depressions, which give the incoming waves additional power. When faced with shallow water, all this huge mass collapses, creating a perfect but damn dangerous pipe. Speaking of pipes. The spot Pipeline got its name, surprisingly, not at all for the features of the waves. It was 1961 when director Bruce Brown decided to shoot a few guys on nameless waves for his surf film Finding Summer. And very close by, work was underway to lay underground communications in the ocean. That's how Brown christened the place - The Pipeline - very unromantic. Since the 1970s, The Billabong Pipeline Masters has been held here annually, in which the strongest athletes fight against the elements for a prize of $ 425,000. But everything is not so rosy: since 2000, 6 deaths of professional surfers and photographers have been recorded here.
Of course, these are not the only places on Earth where you can come face to face with huge waves. But to find out, and most importantly, to understand all of them, you need to make a lot of effort. Not only physical, but also mental. After all, big wave surfing is a deadly enterprise. And for those who still dream of riding, for example, Mavericks, we have come up with a motto: “Study. Go for a ride. Conquer. "
The most dangerous waves are those that every surfer “must know by sight”. The waves that made surfing what it is today, waves that challenge the brave. This article will focus on the largest and most dangerous surfing waves, which have claimed many lives. These include Pipeline and Jaws in Hawaii, Mavericks in California, Teahupoo in Tahiti and Shipsterns Bluff in Australia, off the coast of Tasmania.
The most dangerous waves for surfing.
The Banzai Pipeline Wave, which is located off the coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is considered a surf mecca. A legendary wave with stunning pipes emerges where swell energy meets a coral reef. Pipeline hosts many competitions including the Pipeline Masters. Professional surfers come here from all over the world to ride one of the largest and most dangerous waves on the planet. In winter, waves reach 30 feet (about 10 meters) in size. Depending on the size of the swell, the Pipeline breaks on several peaks: the most famous is First Reef - this peak works most often and is the most powerful; Backdoor - right wave at the same peak; and Third Reef, which is not surfed as often, but the waves are even bigger here.
The most dangerous waves are here: the Pipeline is called the deadliest wave in the world. Several professional surfers and photographers have died here, including Malik Joyeux, a surfer from Tahiti who became famous for his Teahupoo riding.
This wave is on southwest coast islands of Tahiti. Teahupoo is often referred to as the heaviest wave in the world. The name in the local dialect is correctly read as Chopu, but many call her simply Teahupu. Chopu became popular in the sixties of the last century, thanks to its unique shape... It is simply impossible to confuse this wave with any other. A semicircular reef that goes straight down - it is thanks to him that Chopu gets up so abruptly, quickly and has such a thick linden during large swells.
Since 2000, five deaths have been reported on Teahupoo. In 2001, surfer Briece Taerea, having fallen from a 13-foot wave (just over 4 meters), hit a reef, broke his neck and spine in 3 places, fell into a coma, and two days later said goodbye to his life.
Shipsterns Bluff
Known in the past as "Devil's Point" after a promontory that looms over the ocean, Shipsterns Bliff is located in southeastern Tasmania, which is absorbing storms in the Indian Ocean. The spot is famous for its difficult bottom topography, which creates a wave that seems to mutate while breaking.
“The wave doesn't just break here,” says Shipsterns master Marti Paradisis, “the ocean is shaping up, trying to destroy everything in its path. To surf here you need to set yourself up for battle ... this wave is completely unpredictable. " And this is true, especially when the famous "steps" begin to appear, trying to knock the surfer off his feet.
“When you start on Sheipsterns, you see the ocean sucking the water off the reef, and the surface begins to curve according to the bottom topography, and that is what forms the 'stepping stone',” explains Marty. - As soon as you see it, you have to decide what to do: either jump the step as quickly as possible, when the wave is small, or, when its size becomes larger, go through the pipe. It's a challenge!"
Many surfers who dared to ride this wave could not get away unharmed. “I remember being stuck in a current 300 meters from a safe dry rock, bleeding to death. At this point, I tried not to think of myself as food, ”recalls Kieren Perrow, referring to shark food.
Jaws
A wave called Jaws, or Peahi in Hawaiian, sits on the northern shore of Maui under imposing cliffs. For the first time windsurfers rode this wave, and in the late 90s the Jaws became a testing ground for the nascent surfing to-in movement led by Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama.
The largest waves here can reach heights of 40-70 feet (13-23 meters) due to winter storms. To reach the speed required to start on the wave, toe-in surfers are accelerated with the help of water scooters. However, in recent years, surfers such as Shane Dorian, Carlos Burle and Mark Healey have begun to rake this wave by hand, for example.
“Of all the big waves in the world, I think this is the fastest,” says Mark Healy. - She moves faster and hits harder. Water scooter rescue operations are very difficult because an avalanche of foam hits a 300-foot rock. "
Joes got its intimidating name when Hawaiian surfers John Roberson, John Lemus and John Potterick, while riding here in 1975, noticed a sudden change in conditions as the wave turned into a huge, dangerous monster. They nicknamed it after the film of the same name, comparing the unpredictability of conditions to the suddenness of a shark attack.
Mavericks
Known to most Russian surfers from the Chasing Mavericks movie, this wave is located in Halfmoon bay in northern California. And it became the site of the most dramatic events in modern history big wave surfing. Only a select few risk riding this dangerous, sometimes deadly wave, which can reach 80 feet (about 25 meters) in height.
Grant Washburn has been riding the Mavericks for almost the longest time. He says that when you experience the incredible sensations of riding this wave, you become obsessed with it, but sometimes you have to pay for the desire to "beat" the most dangerous waves. This fact is confirmed by several deaths and tragic incidents when surfers nearly drowned in the waters of this spot.
But besides the dangerous conditions common to huge waves, the Mavericks has its own hidden threat.
“Right below the huge peak is a deep hole in the ocean floor, into which it sucks water at a rapid rate with each passing wave,” says Washburn. - This place is called "The Cauldron", and "thanks" to it surfers are kept under water for two waves, and it is he who is to blame for the deaths of Mark Foo and Sion Milosky.
As you can see, the most dangerous waves attract people whose surfing is not just a lifestyle, but their passion and passion. But, unfortunately, not everyone was able to compete with nature. We invite you to watch this video so that you can clearly see which giants are in question.
