The good thing about a traveler's life is that you don't know what to expect from the coming day and new place. I didn’t expect much from Azerbaijan; it became the first country on my trip to the countries of Transcaucasia. And herein lies another secret of the wise universe. Don't expect much and you will be rewarded. The country has exceeded all my most optimistic expectations. I absolutely didn’t want to leave, because how to leave a country where people treat you with incredible respect and participation, always try to help, creating a cozy home environment along the way, where food hits all taste buds with an orgasmic wave at once, where mountains are adjacent to the sea, and forests with cities.
Space landscapes, mud volcanoes, juicy fruits and vegetables, eclectic, melting fat tail, carved caravanserais, perky songs - this is what accompanied me on this wonderful trip. And, of course, I can’t help but mention the magical event, because where else but in an oriental fairy tale can miracles happen? In a small Azerbaijani village, where, due to the lack of attractions, I learned about the local culture at the market, absolutely unexpectedly we came face to face with Gerard Depardieu himself, and I, remembering my school French lessons, explained to him on my fingers what I was doing in this not very popular among tourists place. Gerard starred in a film about the travels of Alexandre Dumas Sr. in the East (and Dumas knew a lot about interesting places).
Azerbaijan is a country whose emotions I could measure in hours of laughter or tons of positivity.
So, if you value the warmth of human hearts more than stars in a hotel, if nature is closer to you than shopping centers, if you are open to new experiences and consider travel as an adventure, if you adore emotional outbursts and laughter, then Azerbaijan is for you.
Visa and border crossing
Russian citizens can enter Azerbaijan without a visa with a valid passport and stay in the country up to 90 days. If for some reason you want to stay in the country longer than the allowed three months, then the visa issue can be resolved at the Embassy of Azerbaijan in Moscow, at the address: Leontyevsky Lane, 16.
What to pay attention to:
Import and export rules
How to get there
You can get to Azerbaijan by land, by water and by air, depending on the complexity of your route and the starting point of your trip.
By plane
The easiest and fastest way to get to Azerbaijan is by plane.
To Baku from Moscow
The flight from the capital of the Russian Federation to Baku lasts about 3 hours, here are the airlines that fly on this route:
- from Domodedovo ( 216 USD- round trip price);
- Ural Airlines from Domodedovo ( 180 USD);
- Pegas fly from Zhukovsky airport ( 180 USD);
- Azerbaijan Airlines from Vnukovo ( 190 USD);
- Utair from Vnukovo ( 160 USD);
- AEROFLOT from Sheremetyevo ( 190 USD).
To Baku from St. Petersburg:
To Baku from other Russian cities:
- from Novosibirsk The airline's planes fly to Baku on Sundays and Wednesdays. Travel time - 4.5 hours, ticket price - 340 USD.
- from Kazan Azerbaijan Airlines planes fly to Baku on Sundays and return on Mondays. Travel time - 2.5 hours, round trip ticket price - 210 USD.
- Azerbaijan Airlines also operates flights to Baku from Ekaterinburg on Thursdays and Sundays. Travel time - 3 hours, ticket price - 310 USD. Uralair airline flies on the same route on the same days. The flight lasts 3 hours and costs 300 USD.
- from Mineralnye Vody to Baku Heydar Aliyev Airport, a flight on an Azerbaijan Airlines plane lasts only 1.5 hours and is carried out on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays ( 160 USD).
All current prices for different airlines can be found on the websites of the carriers themselves or, for example,.
Airports of Azerbaijan
There are 6 international airports in the country:
The second most important airport in Azerbaijan Ganja accepts flights from Moscow on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays (4 hours, 215 USD).
By train
A train in the post-Soviet space is already an adventure, so if you have time to spare and you are inclined to leisurely contemplate the landscapes outside the window, read books while listening to the sound of wheels or savor tea in the famous cut glasses in a metal cup holder, then do not deny yourself pleasure and take a few days out of your own life for the road from Moscow to Baku.
From Moscow to Baku
Train no. 55 departs from Kursk station to Baku on Saturdays. Travel time is 2 days and 4 hours, and ticket prices range from 100 USD in a reserved seat carriage until 140 USD in the compartment If you want luxury, then buy a ticket for the SV carriage: 260 USD and a comfortable trip is guaranteed to you!
From St. Petersburg to Baku
If you are traveling from St. Petersburg and dream of conquering Azerbaijan by rail, then you can get to Moscow in any convenient way and start realizing your dream from there. How and what to get from the northern capital to Moscow is interesting and detailed here.
How to get from the station to the center of Baku
Baku railway station is conveniently located in the center of the capital, so if you choose to travel by train rather than by plane, then your acquaintance with Azerbaijan will begin in the very heart of this beautiful city.
By bus
From Moscow
You can travel from Moscow to Baku by bus, the average price of a one-way ticket is about 60 USD. But keep in mind that most carriers are private and you can find out information at bus stations. The bus travels a distance of 2,200 kilometers in 31 hours.
You can find out more information at the South Gate bus station or at the Sadovod market, where departures take place. international buses and minibuses. But be prepared for the fact that you will be traveling with migrants who move only in this way from the capital of Russia to their homeland in Azerbaijan.
Due to the difficulties with an accurate schedule and purchasing tickets in advance, as well as the length of the journey, those who like to travel by land are better off considering the good old train.
From other cities of Russia
From some Russian cities, for example, Kazan, Samara, Naberezhnye Chelny, Krasnodar, Rostov, Nizhny Novgorod, buses go to the Azerbaijani capital. However, it is unlikely that you will be able to find information on flights in online booking systems, so you should contact the bus station in your city directly for information.
Baku bus station
Buses arrive at the central bus station in Baku, from which you can reach the city center in 20 minutes by bus and metro or in 10–15 minutes by taxi. I will talk more about this type of transport below in the section “Moving Around the Country”.
By car
For those who like adventurous actions, there is an option - to get to Baku by car.
From Moscow to Baku
The travel distance will be approx. 2,300 km. The most convenient route passes through Makhachkala.
Gasoline costs will be 150–200 USD, and the travel time is unlikely to be less 28 hours. Time at the border is unpredictable; you can get through in a couple of hours, or you can get stuck for half a day. This is due to both objective factors (the number of cars) and subjective ones (the mood and performance of state border employees).
As in almost the entire post-Soviet space, crossing borders is accompanied by extortions, especially mentioned by motorists when recalling the territory of the Republic of Dagestan. They can ask for a bribe for something, or they can simply “as a gift for an employee.” You can refuse, but then, at best, the car may be sent for additional inspection, and at worst, they may find something you didn’t put there.
Therefore, the route by car is for the most daring.
From Makhachkala to Baku
As an alternative, minibuses and buses run from Makhachkala, in which crossing the border is more clear and simple. Travel time from Makhachkala to Baku - about 5 o'clock.
From St. Petersburg to Baku
If you decide to travel from St. Petersburg, then add 800 kilometers and 8–10 hours of travel to the total distance.
Tourist regions
Let's talk about where a traveler in Azerbaijan should go first.
On the map I showed why the regions of the country will be interesting, and then I will tell you about this in more detail.
Absheronsky district
The main region of the country, since this is where the capital of Azerbaijan is located - a modern, futuristic, vibrant, historical, incredible metropolis and cultural stronghold of the country.
I find it difficult to single out any one specificity in the region; probably, like Baku, the region is too eclectic.
Here on the coast of the Caspian Sea extend sandy beaches , operating seasonally, the most famous of which are Mardakan and Shikhovo.
Shikhovo is an area of more representative resorts, where in addition to hotels, tourists are offered a full range of water activities, water parks and an equipped beach area. The best resorts: Aqua Park Shikhov and Crescent Beach.
The Mardakan area is a little more down-to-earth, although it also has everything you need for a beach holiday. Popular resorts: Khazar Golden Beach and Fras Beach.
Absheronsky district is famous mud volcanoes , the most famous of which are located in Martian Gobustan. I keep remembering with what concentration I stood in the middle of the desert near the mud pool, waiting for the new “bully”.
Except mud splashes Gobustan I remember the cosmically deserted landscape. It was as if I had visited another planet. If you're lucky, you might stumble upon rock paintings and try to imagine what the inhabitants of the region looked like thousands of years ago.
Right here on the Absheron Peninsula there is the same name reserve .
Connoisseurs of antiquity will be interested Mardakan guard fortresses , who have seen a lot in their lifetime. As the enemy approached, oil was set on fire in the tower, thereby notifying residents of the danger.
35 kilometers from Baku is Ateshgah fire temple . As you know, the region is rich in mineral deposits, and natural gas came to the surface here in ancient times. And since in that era not all phenomena could be explained by facts, the area quickly became famous and acquired a religious interpretation.
Guba-Khachmaz district
The region is located in the northeast of the country and is the closest mountainous region to the capital.
What I remember most here is the town of Guba. On the one hand, there is nothing remarkable here except for the curious Krasnaya Sloboda : an area originally called the “Jewish Settlement”, where Jews still live. The place is considered the only compact region inhabited by Mountain Jews throughout the entire former USSR.
On the other hand, despite the fact that Sloboda is practically the only attraction of Guba, it is here that you can see real Azerbaijani life: meet real people and see the Caucasian village routine in all its beauty.
But the real treasure of the region can be safely called located high in the mountains Khinalig village . You can get there by special car and be amazed at how the small Khinalig people (about 3,000 people in the world) were able to preserve their language and their customs.
In addition to people with big bright eyes, the mountain landscape itself is striking, into which old men in jackets and geese in love organically fit in.
After visiting the remote Khinalig village, it will certainly be pleasant to soak up the beach resort Nabran , where there is the sea, forests, and nightlife.
Ganjabasar district
This is a region for nature lovers, of which I consider myself. Of course, Baku is also interesting, but mountain lakes, wild rivers, life-giving air, meadows and snow-capped peaks are dearer to my heart.
At an altitude of 1,500 meters above sea level there are resort areas of Goygol and Adjikend , where people come to treat their respiratory system and just relax.
Blue Lake Goygol appeared here more than 1,000 years ago and since then has delighted the eyes of local residents and visiting travelers.
Not far from Ganja is Khanlar town , famous for the production of delicious wines and cognacs. And before tasting, I recommend wandering around the surrounding area with beautiful forests, parks and lakes.
Astara district of Lankaran
This area surprises with a combination of very different natural resources. It has access to the sea, which is now atmospherically overgrown with reeds.
The region of the mouth of the Kura River is a favorite place for migrating birds and an oasis of joy for the amateur ornithologist. Well, most importantly, there are two significant natural parks in the region: Hyrkan National Park And Gizilagach reserve .
Hyrkan National Park, just 5 hours drive from Baku, is a place where there are no bars, no shopping malls, no discos, but only forest. Beautiful and virgin forest. It’s good not only for guests, but also for the indigenous inhabitants - plants and animals.
Nature lovers organize a real photo hunt for animals, the apotheosis of which can be the happiness of seeing deer swimming in a mountain lake at dawn.
The Gizilagach reserve is a paradise for ornithologists; almost all species of birds that exist in Azerbaijan are represented here.
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Nakhichevan region
This is an isolated region of Azerbaijan. Due to the unrecognized Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, which cuts Azerbaijan into two parts, the route to the region is difficult and is only possible by air.
Still, it's interesting here. Beautiful landscapes, ancient villages in which little has changed over the last hundred years, hospitable people, rock paintings, the old fortress of Yezdagerd, sacred mountain Gamigaya is what awaits those who dare to fly over disputed territory and end up in an enclave on the other side of the country.
Sheki-Zagatala region
The region not only has a wealth of natural beauty and amazing landscapes, but also the most vibrant city in Azerbaijan Sheki .
In the very center of Sheki there is a magnificent ancient caravanserai, converted into a very affordable hotel. Living there, you can’t help but feel a slight taste of antiquity in every detail. By the way, the word “shed” is translated as “palace”, but not at all as we thought.
Sheki is a magical city, especially in the evening sunset light. I strongly recommend not to miss it!
Shirvan district
Mountain climbing, easy walks, visiting waterfalls - there is everything for lovers of active recreation.
Shirvan Valley incredibly picturesque. I give you my personal recipe for a reboot: a leisurely walk through the most beautiful Shirvan valleys with rivers, peaks, meadows and giant boulders that have found their eternal shelter here.
Top cities
Baku
A city of unimaginable contrasts, where incredible futuristic buildings and cozy quarters of Old Baku coexist hand in hand.
While walking, the contrast is striking. Now I’ve wandered into the old entrance, where the forever names of former residents have not yet been erased on the mailboxes, and after a few steps I find myself in a city of skyscrapers, reminding me that there is oil here.
The beautiful embankment is especially beautiful in the evening, when the high-rise buildings are painted in the colors of the Azerbaijani flag, and the water breaks with a pleasant noise on the well-worn stones.
According to my observations, the embankment looks like during the day and like in the evening.
The city has a lot of interesting sculptures, successfully integrated into its architecture.
A girl talking on the phone, a stack of books, a sad violinist - these statues seem as real as shoe shiners, reminding us that in the Caucasus cleanliness is held in special esteem.
Surprisingly, silk carpets in old shops, a monument to tea, mosques, birdhouses and cats of all kinds coexist together quite organically. Probably one of the few cities I have visited that suits eclecticism so well.
It’s worth setting aside a few days to get to know the city so that you can take your time, feel free to get lost in the narrow streets of the Old Town, look at the doors made in the shape of backgammon and other cute details, and enjoy gastronomic tourism to the fullest.
And, of course, don’t forget to take a memorable “damn it” shot on Kichik-Gala Street near the very house where the episode of the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed.
Sheki
Unlike Baku, this city is small, but very atmospheric: terracotta houses with carved balconies surrounded by picturesque green mountains, cars from the 80s and the warm colors of the setting sun couldn’t help but please me.
The most famous landmark of the city is the Palace of Sheki Khans.
From here you can travel in half a day to Kish, a small village with an Albanian church.
A ride on a minibus in Azerbaijan is already an adventure. All the passengers got to know me, and during these 40 minutes on the way, everyone shared their story. Without a doubt, the most valuable thing on the road is the people we meet.
They are the ones who form impressions of the country; only they can make a trip on a broken minibus unforgettable, or they can ruin the experience of a hotel with stars.
And I remind you that in Sheki you should only stay in the caravanserai - the oldest and most beautiful hotel in the city!
Lip
This is the village where I found myself on the way to the village of Khinalig. A place with a single hotel, old dilapidated baths and remnants of former luxury in the form of a grand staircase in the middle of an empty park. Well, this is what real local life looks like far from oil money.
However, I felt great here. Because the older residents of the city speak Russian well, because they treat you with respect, because they strive to feed you.
The part of the city behind the bridge is called Krasnaya Sloboda. If you cross the bridge and walk along this very Sloboda, it will seem that you have been transported to happiness, because on every corner there is no less than a real “Palace of Happiness”. However, the truth turned out to be more prosaic.
Registry offices are called houses of happiness here.
The history of the settlement is interesting. Mountain Jews live here, and the settlement itself is divided into quarters with synagogue centers. Initially, representatives of this rare nation spoke their own language, reminiscent of Farsi, but now it is not difficult to meet bilingual Jews who understand and speak Azerbaijani, and trilingual residents who speak excellent Russian, too.
Also in Guba, as in any place where there are few attractions, or rather, in places that in themselves are one big attraction, you cannot miss the bazaar. I remember I bought figs, and they gave me a kilogram of pears as a gift, and this is not uncommon here!
In my case, the market was marked by an event that, according to my estimates, could not have happened in Guba. Anywhere, but not there. While tasting grapes at the market, I noticed some movement, and a local boy said: “Depardieu is coming now.” “Of course, of course,” I thought skeptically. But he really came and was no less surprised than we were to see fair-haired girls at the bazaar in Guba. The conversation was brief but memorable.
This is the town of Guba - a city of surprises and unexpected meetings.
Minibuses depart from the Baku bus station to Guba every half hour for 2–3 USD, travel time is 3 hours.
Nakhchivan
This is an enclave city, so if you decide to include it in your itinerary, you will have to fly from Baku with Azerbaijan Airlines for 40 minutes and in 40 USD(tickets for this flight cannot be purchased online, but only at the ticket office). The city itself is located on the border with Iran, so residents of the capital often take a detour to Nakhchivan: by car through Iran. If you have a visa, this journey can be completed in 10–12 hours.
There are many ancient monuments in the city, and if you get here, be sure to visit: the 11th century Kuseyir mausoleum, the Gyaur-Kala fortress, the Noah mausoleum, the caravanserai in Julfa and the Momine Khatun mausoleum. And, probably, the most incredible structure of the city is the Khudaferin bridges over the Araks River.
It is interesting to look at the monument to Bebek, the Azerbaijani-Iranian counterpart of Stepan Razin, who became famous for his unsuccessful uprising against the Iranian caliphate.
Ganja
It is the second largest city of Azerbaijan, formerly known as “Kirovobad”. Various national characteristics were embodied in the planning of the urban structure. Ethnic Germans, who left the city only in the 90s, played a significant role in the design and creation of houses and parks.
Naturally, the city also has buildings that have survived to this day from the Soviet era. This eclectic mix is very typical of Azerbaijan.
In Ganja, I was amazed by the plane trees - 500 slender green trees that decorate the city and are considered its symbol. The oldest tree named Dul-Dul is 1,500 years old.
Ganja as a museum under open air: if you just wander through its streets and districts, you will definitely come across something interesting. Quite by accident, I came across a strange building decorated with bottles, and the locals immediately told me that the building was called the “bottle house.”
The building was built by a man who lost his son in the war, and it was in memory of him that he decorated the building with portraits of the hero, as well as stones and 50,000 glass bottles brought from different parts of the USSR. Sad and Touching story.
Mingachevir
Vintage and interesting city on the banks of the Kura River. There is architectural monuments, historical evidence, parks, the ancient settlement of Sudagylan and the reservoir, which locals call the Mingachevir Sea. Of course: there’s even fish here! And the reservoir itself is used by artists for inspiration. 
Same for me nice place It became a cozy embankment with shady alleys and an almost sea panorama.
Top attractions
- Khinalig (Xınalıq)
A small village far in the mountains could be one of thousands of similar villages, but still it is special. A small nation lives here, the Khinalig people, who have preserved their unique language.
There are many amazing things in Khinalig, children have huge eyes, cows have long eyelashes, and life here has its own, measured... 
Children blow bubbles, women do laundry, men in identical suits slowly walk around the village. And it’s surprising that, despite such a remote location, there has been Internet here for 7 years. 
- "Qobustan" - Azerbaijani "space"
Gobustan National Park is located 30 kilometers from Baku. And it is three times surprising that, having covered such a short distance from cosmopolitan Baku, you find yourself in another world. On another planet. In a parallel universe.
The national park is a large desert area scattered with petroglyphs dating back about 5,000 years. To be honest, I’m not a big fan of petroglyphs, but the shades of the red-brown stones amazed me.
There are also famous mud volcanoes here. There are mountains around, stones of strange colors and cracked earth. In the distance, the sun is shining over the mountains and rocks, there are no people.
An unusual landscape, like in “The Secret of the Third Planet”. Volcanoes make strange sounds. So you sit on the ground, waiting for a splash, and all around you: gurgle, gurgle, gurgle. Curious. 
For an excursion from Baku, travel agencies charge about 150 USD for the whole day. I went on my own by public transport: buses No. 120, then No. 195 will take you to a place on the highway where taxi drivers stand and offer a ride around the park. The price for such a trip is 15–20 USD. - Maiden Tower in Baku (Qız Qalası)
Walking around Baku, it is impossible to miss this massive structure in the Old City. Scientists are still arguing about the purpose of the tower and its age, but this name interested me. A local resident, elderly Tural, told me a legend about how the tower appeared. And, frankly, legends are much more interesting than boring facts.
The word “maiden” is used here in the meaning of “impregnable, uncaptured”, because at one time the tower was part of the defensive structures of the Baku fortress. The legend says: the local Shah fell in love with his daughter and forced her to marry. She, naturally, resisted and, in order to somehow cool the ardor of her lustful father, asked him to build a tower, in the hope that during the construction of the tall structure her father would change his mind. But the Shah stood his ground, then the beauty climbed the tower and threw herself into the sea. 
I climbed the tower (for 1.5 USD) and enjoy the views of the Old Town, looking at authentic balconies and grieving over the fate of the unfortunate girl. - Palace of Sheki Khans (Şəki xan sarayı)
Sheki is a pleasant city in itself, but the Palace of the Khans is a real treasure. Having crossed the threshold of the ancient palace, it was as if I had entered a chest of jewels (entrance - 1.5 USD). Still, imagine stained glass windows made of 14,000 multi-colored pieces of Venetian glass.
The palace is more of a living quarters than a museum, and this is especially interesting. While walking among the interior items of the women's and men's rooms, the imagination involuntarily draws pictures from the past, where a richly dressed khan eats a handful of grapes on a sun-drenched terrace. 
Guests are greeted by two spreading plane trees, sycamore trees that provide good shelter from the midday heat. There are very interesting excursions in the palace ( 3 USD). - Square national flag in Baku (Dövlət Bayrağı Meydanı)
“Area” is a conditional name; in fact, the territory of the place is 60 hectares.
The height of the flag placed here is more than 160 meters, and the dimensions of the banner itself are 35 by 79 meters.
It is here, when the sea wind flutters a giant flag, that the respectful attitude of Azerbaijanis towards their country and its main symbol is very felt. It's worth learning. 
Nearby there is a Ferris wheel, several galleries, a beautiful embankment with sculptures, a cozy promenade, cafes, restaurants and even a small one where you can ride along the milk rivers in your own gondola. And from all these places you can see the flag! 
- Goygol lake (Göygöl)
Azerbaijan is associated more with oil than with beach holidays. But nevertheless, in addition to the coast of the Caspian Sea, you can also swim here in fresh water bodies. Lake Goygol is located 45 kilometers from Ganja, quite close to the border with the unrecognized Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh.
The lake has clear water that you can drink, and since you can drink it, the fish are comfortable here. The lake, surrounded by beautiful places, is home to trout.
You won’t be able to take a dip in the lake; approaching the water is prohibited; moreover, the water temperature in the hottest time does not rise above +17 °C. I wouldn’t call this a problem, because in good weather here, in the green forests, it’s great to walk around and breathe clean air. - Absheron National Park (Absheron Milli Parkı)
An excellent natural park just an hour's drive from Baku. 700 hectares of the reserve are located in picturesque place on the Absheron Peninsula. Here, if you're lucky, you can see many species of birds, animals and plants. And in the waters of the Caspian Sea, starting in September, you can meet a sea snake or even a Caspian fur seal.
Entrance to the park costs approx. 1
USD, you can get there by taxi from Baku (about 40 USD).
Don't forget a cap and sunscreen, the sun can be very hot. In the park it is possible to hire a guide, but I preferred to walk on my own. The place is conducive to thinking about the eternal and the everyday. Tickets can be purchased. - Beshbarmaq
The name is surprisingly similar to the popular oriental dish beshbarmak, but in meaning it is very far from it. Beshbarmag is a mountain 40 kilometers from Baku.
In fact, the answer is simple: beshbarmak translated means “5 fingers” - a meat dish is eaten in this way, and the mountain resembles fingers in its shape.
The mountain is not just beautiful, it can fulfill the wishes, but only of those who spare no effort and climb it. There are known cases when climbing a mountain helped those suffering to recover from illnesses, and those dreaming of children to become parents. The views from the mountain are magnificent, and water drips from the source, healing any ailment.
According to legend, the immortal sage Khizr prayed here, dreaming of learning the secrets of existence. And to this day, people go and go to the mountain to feel their involvement with higher powers, to ask for a wish to be fulfilled or to part with their own sins. - Icheri Sheher (İçəri şəhər)
This is the Old City of Baku, bounded by fortress walls. You feel strange here, because being in a place with such a pronounced historical and cultural flavor, reminders of modernity constantly catch your eye.
Either a huge flag flutters in the distance, or skyscrapers divide the horizon into several parts. But in Icheri Sheher you need to concentrate on antiquity. 
There is no need to plan a route, you just need to wander through the narrow streets with balconies, look into the courtyards, greet people, idly admire ancient souvenirs, and playfully ask the price of carpets. 
Everything is interesting here, and I really liked the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, where I had to pay for the entrance 1
USD, and the market square, which is 6 meters below ground level. 
Until now, the Kasum-bek bathhouse, ancient mosques, and the Maiden Tower stir the soul and bring back memories of the amazing atmosphere of the Old City. - Crafts Village Lahıc
Lahij is a small but very interesting village near the city of Ismailly. If in the city of Ismailly the only entertainment for tourists is a cafe with delicious food and beautiful name“Dostluk” (friendship), then in Lahij, there is something to see.
This is probably one of the most famous eastern centers of crafts. Here you can watch how goods from copper and leather are made in numerous workshops, how carpets are woven, traditional oriental ornaments are applied, and even weapons are made by the hands of masters of their craft. 
The secrets of the craft were passed down from generation to generation and, judging by the works, they were perfectly preserved. As, indeed, is the city’s sewer system, which, according to the stories of a local old woman, is 1,000 years old! You can get to Lahij from Ismailly in 1 USD and 50 minutes. There are minibuses from Baku to Ismailly, you will have to pay for the 5 hour journey 3–4 USD.
Weather
Azerbaijan is interesting at any time, but, of course, the best time to visit is from spring to autumn.
Summer
This time of year is for those who love the heat and want to include a beach holiday in their travel program. During the day, the air temperature in Baku can reach +30 °C. And sea water warms up to +25–26 °C.
Heat and drought can be hard to bear, especially if you enjoy long walks and hikes. Therefore, summer is here for the persistent.
Spring
Great time for nature lovers. During this season it is not hot here, the flowering time is beginning, and your stay will be comfortable. The temperature in April-May reaches +20–25 °C, but we must remember that the higher you go in the mountains, the cooler it gets.
The swimming season begins in mid-June, until this time the sea can only be enjoyed visually.
Autumn
This period of the year is suitable for people like me, for those who like to combine a hundred in one. In autumn it is still warm, you can swim, and, depending on the month, you can catch the harvest of fruits and vegetables.
In Baku in autumn it is about +25 °C, the water in the Caspian Sea is about +22 °C, which is quite suitable for swimming.
Azerbaijan is a very sunny country, but in autumn and spring it can rain, they paint the natural landscapes and urban landscapes in completely different colors, and this is wonderful. But they can also make it difficult to visit attractions.
For example, in October it rained in Ismailly, and it was difficult to get to the artisan Lahij due to the erosion of the road, which the locals, in their own way, playfully called “mountain drainage.”
Winter
In winter it can snow in Baku and there are quite a few tourists at this time. This kind of weather makes a walk along the embankment and especially the Old Town incredibly atmospheric.
You don’t have to expect any particularly cold weather; in winter the thermometer rarely drops below -2 °C.
Nature has no bad weather, so choose a convenient time and go explore beautiful Azerbaijan!
Moving around the country
Traveling around Azerbaijan is quite easy, especially for us who speak Russian. You can take a plane, train, bus, minibus or even a taxi.
By taxi
Taxi service is developed in Baku. You can use the international Uber system, you can order a taxi through apps, then the price will be fixed, or you can catch private taxi drivers on the street, then the cost of the trip can be absolutely anything, and besides, the street bomber may simply not want to go where you need to go.
A couple of years ago, London cabs began operating in Baku and have taken root well in the city. People, however, often call them “eggplant” because of their characteristic color, but they drive strictly according to the meter.
Probably this is exactly what vehicle dedicated to a funny song about the Lada Sedan Eggplant.
Intercity taxi rides are possible, and their price directly depends on your ability to bargain.
By plane
An airplane is a convenient way to travel around the country and, I must say, quite affordable. Azerbaijan Lines Airlines operates regular flights to Ganja, Gabala and Nakhichevan:
- planes from Baku to Ganja fly on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays (1 hour on the way and 31 USD).
- planes to Gabala fly from Baku on Fridays and Sundays (an hour's journey and 28 USD).
- there are also flights to Nakhchivan, but they can only be purchased at the ticket office (40 minutes and 40 USD).
By bus
Historically, the most popular transport in the post-Soviet space is land transport. Many minibuses and buses travel to all corners of the country.
Here are the most popular routes that depart from the main bus station in Baku:
- Baku - Gabala (5.5 hours, 5 USD);
- Baku - Guba (3.5 hours, 3 USD);
- Baku - Ganja (7 hours, 4 USD);
- Baku - Ismayilli (5.5 hours, 3–4 USD);
- Baku - Lankaran (6.5 hours, 3 USD);
- Baku - Sheki (7 hours, 4 USD).
The bus station is located at the metro station "January 20th" , from where you need to travel a couple of stops on a city bus.
By train
The train is a great alternative to the bus. In almost all countries of the former USSR, where there is such an option, I choose the railway. Firstly, the train is much safer than buses and minibuses with daring and impetuous drivers. Secondly, trains arrive on schedule, and thirdly, you can enjoy the view from the window in a comfortable horizontal position.
Azerbaijan Railways offer routes to most places that may interest a traveler. Ticket prices are quite low, and therefore they are sold out quite quickly.
- Mingachevir,
- Zagatala,
- Shirvan,
- Astara,
- Balaken.
- Hertz;
- Aznur (there is a counter at Baku airport);
- Nascar rent;
- Karavan;
- Cermington.
Rent price:
- mini car - 10–15 USD per day;
- car "standard" - approx. 15–35 USD per day, depending on the total number of days (on weekends the rate doubles);
- SUV - 40–60 USD.
Many companies require a security deposit of 180–200 USD for a passenger car and 250 USD for an SUV.
The requirements for the tenant are easily met: you must have more than 2 years of experience, international rights and credit card or cash for bail.
A liter of quality gasoline in Azerbaijan costs 0.7 USD.
Connection
In Azerbaijan, a foreigner can easily purchase a SIM card with the Internet; to do this, they must present international passport. The peculiarity of the region is that the cost of the SIM card and package often depends on the “beauty” of the number.
Some cards may cost 10 USD, if the number is easy to remember and consists of repeating numbers. If this point is not important for you, then for 2–4 USD you can easily connect to the mobile network.
There are three operators in Azerbaijan: Azercel, Baksel and Nar-Azerfon. Their prices for services are approximately the same, but local residents said that Azersel’s connection is a little better.
I used the tariff Genc Ol: 2 GB of traffic, 200 minutes of on-net calls and 200 SMS cost me 3 USD (5 AZN).
Common in hotels and restaurants WiFi, so you will always be in touch. Even in the remote village of Khinalig, people have known what the Internet is for many years and are actively using it.
Language and communication
The Azerbaijani language is spoken in Azerbaijan. Now the written language is based on the Latin alphabet, but we cannot read some letters even if we try. However, there is some good news. Almost all the capital's youth speak English and Russian, and people of the older generation speak Russian almost at our level.
There are also funny incidents, for example, in the distant village of Khinalig, where, as I already said, it has its own language, one stern man pointed at his wife with a question:
- How old do you think he is?
-To whom "him?
-To him, my wife.
Another nuance is the translator’s false friends; on the very first day I was confused by the “sexy” inscription found on many signs.
“Sexy ceramics”, “sexy motors”, “sexy halva”. Luckily, "sexy" is not what you and I thought, "sexy" means "shop"!
The phrase “1,001 little things” sounds a little differently here.
As elsewhere, if people want to understand each other, they will understand. The main thing is to be open and human, then it will be intuitively clear that “liquid lamb” is “soup with meat”, and that it is better to refuse the offer of hot young men to “be friends” in the evening, just in case.
- The most important word among eastern peoples is “friend” ( dost). Use it as often as possible, as well as its derivatives dostluk, which means "friendship".
- Salam- "Good afternoon", halalik- "Goodbye".
- Word " azadlig" - "freedom" is found very often: freedom avenue, freedom street, freedom radio and so on.
- Chokh sagol- "Thank you".
- Menim khoshuma galir...- "I like…".
- Pschik- “cat”.
- Bahadir- "very expensive".
- Lezat- “pleasure”, for example, cutlet lezet- “The cutlets are just a blast.”
- Menim adyn… - "My name is...".
- Duddles- "tasty".
Treat people well, try to say at least a few words in their language, and the result will surprise you, and the trip will be special and very personal!
Features of mentality
Azerbaijanis are very nice people. Personally, I remember most of all two of their features: incredible hospitality And respect for elders. As one respectable old man in Baku told me, his son, who turned 50 this year, still does not smoke in his presence.
Elderly people will always be helped; It is impossible to imagine an old father or mother who will be sent to a nursing home.
It is curious that in many Azerbaijani families, parents still recommend a partner for marriage to their daughter and son. And many people do follow this advice, but not always out of respect for their parents, and sometimes because they prefer to take the path of least resistance. Nevertheless, there is always a choice, especially in cosmopolitan Baku, and if a girl wants to make a career and not get married at 25, then she will do it, although not without pressure from the outside.
Relationships with girls are a sore subject for young Azerbaijanis: dating for a long time without marriage is not encouraged, civil marriage is very rare and is condemned. As a tourist I met from France told me, one day they went to a club to dance, thinking that like in any European club they could have fun and meet girls, and were very surprised that only men were dancing in the club. “Why do you come here?” - the guys asked in bewilderment. “Dance,” was the answer.
But do not forget that Azerbaijan is a Muslim country, and the men here are “hot”, so if you are a girl, then avoid very revealing clothes and inappropriate flirtatiousness.
In general, the attitude towards girls is respectful, but since the world is Eastern, even in restaurants we were offered a separate room, which is called an “office” here. Not because it’s dangerous, but to make it more comfortable.
I have the best memories from the people of Azerbaijan, and especially about their amazing tact, when, unlike annoying merchants, as often shown in movies, people respectfully and with an open heart strive to help, but if you show that everything is fine and help no need, no one will pester you, and you will be left in peace.
Food and drink
Azerbaijan is a country that combines historical, natural and gastronomic tourism. I haven’t seen such an abundance of delicious food for a long time: a variety of appetizers, pickles, meat and fish delicacies, soups, sweets and fruit and vegetable dishes.
Beverages
As in any oriental cuisine, drinks are popular here from fermented milk products.
By the way, the locals advise eating a lot of fried fat tail during heavy libations, since not only is it tasty, it also coats the stomach and you don’t feel intoxicated.
And, of course, without tea Not a single meal is left out.
Meal Tradition
You can have an equally tasty and satisfying lunch or dinner in expensive restaurants and small eateries.
I was amazed by the breakfast. Usually the morning meal involves something light and rather small, but here on the table at such an early hour there are feta cheese, fresh bread, thick jam, homemade cream, eggs and even cabbage rolls!
If you are lucky enough to be invited as a guest, the delicious dishes will be generously flavored with incredible Azerbaijani hospitality.
5 dishes worth trying
Shopping
Azerbaijan is a very original country, which means that in pursuit of souvenirs you can stumble upon very interesting things here. Of course, Baku has modern shopping centers and giant malls, but, as elsewhere in the East, the real treasures lurk in the shadows of narrow streets: in workshops, shops and small markets.
What you need to know about shopping in this country
As in any eastern country, buying a product is a game, and without bargaining the game is not interesting to either the buyer or the seller. A foreigner may be quoted a deliberately high price, but if you have learned a few words from my list and are familiar with the culture of the East, then bargaining will help you reduce the price, and sometimes even several times.
In local small shops, guests are offered tea and sweets absolutely free of charge, and during the selection process you can hear interesting stories from seasoned sellers of ancient treasures.
The range of souvenirs that are worth bringing from Azerbaijan is very wide: from loose aromatic spices to national slippers, from tea bowls to carpets, from ceramics and leather goods to real black caviar. More about them below.
Best cities for shopping
The best cities for shopping are Baku, Sheki and Lahij.
I tend to buy few souvenirs and usually choose inexpensive and memorable crafts that do not take up much space, can be used in everyday life and, of course, the choice falls only on those things that are filled with memories of this country. But there are also travelers for whom shopping is boutiques.
The infrastructure of Baku will also pleasantly please parents:
- It’s a pleasure to walk along the long embankment with a stroller,
- V shopping centers there are children's entertainment centers,
- and on the city streets there are playgrounds for the little ones.
As always, if you're traveling with children, be sure to bring what you're used to, especially medications.
You can easily find diapers and baby food in stores in Azerbaijan.
Safety
Azerbaijan in general and Baku in particular are quite safe. The capital is well patrolled and well lit. The crime rate in the country is very low. Of course, you shouldn’t lose your head and forget about all the existing precautions. Behave with restraint and respect, do not be afraid of the locals, and almost 100% that nothing will happen to you.
Girls can also easily travel around Azerbaijan, but sometimes they may feel slight discomfort because, in principle, this is not accepted in this part of the world and therefore causes surprise.
Remember that what is normal behavior for us can be perceived as coquetry in the conservative East. I have only encountered respectful behavior, and although sometimes you can receive a cryptic offer, it all depends on you: if you behave with dignity, then the Azerbaijanis will never take violent actions.
Money
The national currency of Azerbaijan is manat (AZN).
For 1 AZN they give about 0.6 USD.
The largest bill is 100 AZN, which is equal to approximately 60 USD or 50 EUR.
Cash euros, dollars and rubles can be exchanged at numerous currency exchange offices. Of course, as elsewhere, we must remember that the most unfavorable exchange rate is found at airports, train stations and tourist places.
Exchange offices offer a higher rate for dollars and euros; the direct exchange rate for the ruble is slightly lower.
How to get there, what to see, where to stay, take a walk and have an inexpensive but satisfying meal - these are the main questions that arise in your head when you are planning a train trip to this or that corner of the world, and Baku is no exception. Having visited the capital of Azerbaijan, I have prepared a short guide for those wishing to visit Baku, the largest city in the Caucasus, for a short 2-3 day visit.
Visa issue and registration
A visa to Azerbaijan is not required for Russian citizens for a stay of up to 90 days. To cross the border, you only need to have a foreign passport valid during your stay in Azerbaijan. Mandatory insurance to enter the country is also not needed, but out of habit I took it through the Cherehapa service, God protects the safe.
The question often arises on the Internet about the mandatory registration of foreigners in Azerbaijan and the possible extortion of funds by border guards at way back, in its absence. According to State Migration Service of the Republic of Azerbaijan– foreign citizens or stateless persons, if they plan to stay on the territory of Azerbaijan for more than 10 days, must be registered at their place of stay during this time; registration is not required for those staying for less than 10 days. Registration is free, no state fee is charged.
In order to protect myself from possible problems when leaving Azerbaijan, I took a couple of screenshots from the official website of the State Migration Service, but they were not useful, the border guards did not have any questions.
How to get to Baku?
By plane. The easiest and fastest way to get to Baku. Aeroflot (from Sheremetyevo), S7 (from Domodedovo), Utair (from Vnukovo) and Azerbaijan Airlines - AZAL (Azerbaijan Airlines; from Domodedovo, Vnukovo) operate flights from Moscow to the capital of Azerbaijan. The flight duration is about 2.5 hours. An Azerbaijani carrier flies from St. Petersburg, Mineralnye Vody and Kazan.
Minimum cost of air tickets Moscow ↔ Baku and St. Petersburg ↔ Baku
Moscow - Baku - MoscowSt. Petersburg - Baku - St. Petersburg
By train. Every Saturday, train 055Ч Moscow - Baku departs from Kursky Station in Moscow to Baku; travel time is 2 days and 5 hours. You can get from Rostov-on-Don by direct train Rostov-on-Don - Baku 392C or passing Kharkov - Baku 390O. Travel time is 1 day 9 hours and 1 day 8 hours respectively.
By bus. There are no direct official bus routes between Moscow and Baku. But you can get there with a transfer in Stavropol (Moscow - Stavropol, Stavropol - Baku).
Baku Airport. How to get to the city center?
Baku International Airport named after Heydar Aliyev is located 25 km east of Baku and is connected to the city by a modern highway. All international flights arrive at the new modern terminal, opened in 2013. The airport does not serve many flights, so customs procedures upon arrival will not take much time. Free Wi-Fi is available at the airport. Smoking rooms were in the departure area, but disappeared in 2017.
Upon arrival, at the Baku airport after leaving the clear zone, there is an exchanger where you can buy manats, but the rate, not surprisingly, is not very good. Here you will also find at least 2 ATMs. On my last trip in April 2017, one did not work, and the second took a commission - 1 manat; in 2016 there was none.
There are two ways to get from Baku airport to the city center: by taxi and by bus.
By taxi. When leaving the arrivals area, they will immediately come up to you and offer you a taxi into the city; these are the most cunning taxi drivers, since according to the rules they are prohibited from entering the terminal. If you refuse, you go out into the street, and there are already many more of them here, and everyone considers it their duty to come up and offer their services. Reviews about taxis from Baku airport to the city, and in general about taxi drivers in Baku, are not very good and boil down to the fact that each of them is trying to scam tourists out of as much money as possible. Therefore, if you are planning to take a taxi from the airport, then go to the KiwiTaxi.ru website and check out the prices for the official transfer, and upon arrival you can already bargain with taxi drivers based on a certain amount. Or more simply, book a taxi in advance online, and the driver will meet you at the exit from the arrivals area with a nameplate and take you to the place indicated on your voucher.
Upon arrival at Baku airport, you can also order a taxi via the Internet (Wi-Fi available) Uber. To use this service, you need to download the Uber application to your smartphone (if it is not installed, of course) on Google Play for Android or in iTunes for Apple devices, install and register by linking a bank card to your account. Currently, the cost of an Uber ride from Baku airport to the 28 May metro station (express route, which is discussed below) is 15 manats, according to calculations on the official website.
By bus. The bus from Baku Airport to the city center (route H1) departs every 30 minutes during the daytime, and every hour at night from the stop opposite the exit from the international terminal (on the left, before reaching the parking lot) and follows with one stop at the Koroglu metro station (Azerbaijan). Koroğlu) to the metro station 28 May (Azerbaijani: 28 May), which is located near the Baku railway station. Starting from 2017, the bus from the 28 May station towards the airport does not have a clear schedule - it arrives, drops off, picks up and goes back.
BakiKART machine and bus schedule from Baku airport to the city
How to pay for travel. To travel by bus, you should purchase a BakiKART from a specialized machine (plastic card, price: 2.00 manat) or BakiKART for temporary use (paper card, price: 0.20 manat) and immediately top it up with the cost of the shuttle fare - 1.30 manat. Vending machines are located to the right and left of the airport exit. The maximum bill they accept when purchasing 1 temporary card with a trip from the airport to the city worth 1.5 manats is 5 manats, change is given in coins. You can top up your temporary card for 2 trips at once (round trip), thereby saving 20 qepiks.
Where to stay in Baku?
Today we received an email from Booking.com with a personal referral link. When you book using it, both you and I will receive a bonus of 1000₽. The promotion itself is only valid for 10 bookings, so hurry up and take advantage. Well, here's the link itself: https://www.booking.com/s/35_6/d5f6d311. If reservations are still available, you will see at the bottom of the screen:
The best option for a tourist is, of course, an inexpensive hotel in the center of Baku near the seaside boulevard, one might say this is a dream, because budget options with this arrangement there are quite a few and they are quickly snapped up. I was lucky, I got it on Booking.com three star The hotel Empire Hotel, located almost immediately behind the local parliament building, and offering a significant discount on accommodation. Before booking, I checked the cost of staying at this hotel through the price comparison service RoomGuru.ru and made sure that Booking.com offers the best option. 4 nights of accommodation cost 140 manats. The Empire Hotel is not a wow hotel, despite its name, and three rubles is below average, but the location is good.
Another thing I want to say about choosing a hotel in Baku, if there are 2 approximately identical hotels in quality and cost and one is located near or inside Icheri Sheher (Old, Inner City), and the second is in the parliament area, choose the first one.
The further the hotel is located from the boulevard, the price-quality ratio is noticeably higher, if you do not take the distance into account. And, if there is a bus stop near such a hotel that goes to the center, or a metro station, then you can safely book a room there.
Not found suitable hotel? Look at apartments on the Airbnb service, there are quite a lot of interesting offers in Baku. And if you don’t have an Airbnb account yet, then register using the link www.airbnb.ru/c/226361. This will bring both you and me 1500₽.
Transport in the city
Public transport in Baku:
- The metro is very similar to the Moscow one. To pay, use BakiKART, the fare is 0.20 manat;
- BakuBus buses, new and modern, ply around the city. To pay, use BakiKART, the fare is 0.20 manat. Route maps and detailed information are available at official website;
- old buses that connect the capital with the suburbs. We are ready to pick up a voting passenger on any part of the route, payment in cash to a specially trained person. detailed information according to routes on the website (site is currently unavailable);
- Taxi. They are everywhere, you won’t go missing, but they really like to make money from tourists. I recommend using Uber wherever possible.
Uber tariffs in Baku
Where to eat tasty and inexpensive in Baku
I can admit right away that I haven’t visited many places and haven’t been looking for local flavor. The task was to find a cafe in the center where the waiters speak Russian, there is a Russian menu, and, of course, it’s tasty and not very expensive.
The first place I was advised to go to was Cafe Eriste(Gazanfar Alizadeh Street, 6/8) was located in the basement near the old city and Fountain Square. It’s immediately obvious that the cafe is for locals, the food is tasty and inexpensive, the waiter speaks Russian, but the small room and the lack of a menu in Russian predetermined my choice not in his favor, although it may have been influenced by fatigue or something else.
The next day after a walk around the city I went to cafe Araz, which was recommended on the Vinsky forum. This establishment is located on Fountain Square. If you are facing KFC, then to the right is the City Fountain cafe, and even further to the right is Araz. Most of the waiters speak Russian, the menu is in Azerbaijani, Russian and English, a large selection of dishes for every taste, in good weather they set up tables outside, there is Wi-Fi, the hall is divided into smoking and non-smoking, they work around the clock, payment by card is possible. I chose this cafe.
If you compare the prices in these two establishments, the difference is minimal; in Araz it is about 1 manat more expensive, plus they charge 60 qepiks (kopecks) for bread, which you can immediately refuse and it will not be brought or included in the bill. As for the food, it’s delicious both there and there. In terms of atmosphere and surroundings, Araz noticeably wins, since the room itself is not a basement and is larger in area, plus most of the visitors at the neighboring tables speak our language, you can pay by card.
If you want to eat and at the same time enjoy an amazing bird's eye view of the “city of lights”, visit Telequlle restaurant, located in the television tower premises. The very platform on which this establishment is located rotates, so during the meal the entire city will float in front of you. The minimum check amount per person is 30 manats. Unfortunately, I was not here myself, as I learned about it after my trip. I would be very glad to hear feedback from those who visited this restaurant.
Where to drink beer in Baku?
The local most popular beer, Xirdalan (Khirdalan), is brewed at the Baltika - Baku plant near the capital. You can try it in all cafes, it costs 1.5 - 3 manats.
Several Irish pubs line the side streets near Fountain Square. Imported beer is poured here: Efes, Krombacher, Blanche de Bruxelles and others at 7 - 8 manats per half-liter mug, and bottled Magners is also available (0.33). Unfortunately, after the devaluation of the manat, Guinness and Kilkenny disappeared from taps.
From these establishments I chose the oldest pub in Baku - Finnegan's Pub(Abdulkerim Alizade, 8). The main role in choosing this pub for spending time in the evening was played by the waiter Orkhan, who was excellent at maintaining a conversation, but the bartenders did not lag behind - there was never a dull moment. If you prefer to drink a foamy drink at the counter, then here it is comfortable, wide and long - there is room. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Finnegan’s Pub hosts live music concerts, and on Thursdays until 22.00, I’ll tell you a little secret, all drinks are 4 manats.
Another place that cannot be ignored when discussing beer in Baku is Brewery Restaurant(Istiglaliyet street, 27). Finding it is quite simple, exit the Icheri Sheher metro station, cross the street along the underground passage, go left and a little down the street. You will see it in 20-30 meters. The Brewery constantly has 3 types of beer on tap, which are brewed here, these are Light - Light (Helles), Red - Medium (Marzen) and Dark - Dark (Bavarian G`Mischt), sometimes they also brew a seasonal variety, but... Due to poor pouring (absence from the menu), this beer stagnates and turns sour, so they plan to abandon this idea. I liked the first two varieties, especially Light, it goes great after a long walk, the offered dark one is not my thing. The cost of a glass of beer is 4 manats. But, if you come on Sunday from 17.00 to 20.00, then every second mug will be free. The staff of the establishment - the waiters, the bartender, the cook - are very friendly - they will treat you, tell you, show you, as they say. Food in a restaurant is much more expensive than in the cafes mentioned above.
What to see in Baku and the surrounding area
Sights of Baku
There is enough information on the Internet about the sights of the capital of Azerbaijan, so I will briefly outline the route and list the main ones.
Baku seaside boulevard- an embankment with a length of about 6 km, if you count from the White House to the Aquatics Palace, although Wikipedia talks about some mythical 16 - 25 km.
Primorsky Boulevard in Baku. View from observation deck.
Arriving along Primorsky Boulevard to Carpet Museum, you can cross Neftyanikov Avenue and take the funicular (travel is free) or walk up the stairs to the hill - Nagorny Park, where there is an excellent observation deck, Alley of Shahids and Flame Towers. By the way, you can book a room in five-star Fairmont Baku hotel, located in one of the three Flame Towers. The observation deck offers a wonderful view of the whole of Baku, including Old city, seaside boulevard and Area of the national flag(speaking of the square, you cannot go up to the flag itself; there is a guard on duty on each of the stairs).
Alley of Martyrs or the Alley of Honorary Burials - most of those who died during the tragic events of “Black January” of 1990 are buried here, when on the night of January 19-20 the Soviet army was brought into the city to suppress protests by the political opposition.
Let's go down to Icheri Sheher(Old, inner city), we go inside and see a small square where a monument to the poet Vahid is erected. We move to the right along the fortress wall and find ourselves right next to the house, where was The Diamond Arm filmed in Baku, or rather the famous episode “damn it” (Kichik-Gala str., 8/1, Icheri-Sheher).
The place where an episode of the film “The Diamond Arm” was filmed in Baku.
We continue our walk along the wall and at the moment when the route should close we go to the palace of the Shirvanshahs. Ticket price is 4 manats for adults and 20 qepiks for children.
After visiting the palace complex, it's time to go inside the old city and wander through its narrow streets.
Icheri Sheher - Old City of Baku
If you move up to the right from the Icheri-Sheher metro station, you will come to Fountain areas.
Another one of the main attractions of Baku is Heydar Aliyev Cultural Center, designed by the famous architect Zaha Hadid. You can see this unusual structure on the very first day of your stay in Baku, if you travel from the airport to the city center by bus.
Ateshgah temple of fire worshipers
The Ateshgah temple complex is located in the village of Surakhani, which is only 10 km from the Baku metro station Korogly. The temple was originally built on this site because it was here that fire burst out of the ground, which was associated with the natural release of natural gas. At the moment, Ateshgah is an architectural complex in the shape of a hexagon with a jagged outer wall and an entrance portal. In the center of the courtyard stands a quadrangular altar, which was a place of pilgrimage for fire worshipers. Here and now, fire bursts out of the ground, but thanks to specially supplied gas. The word “Ateshgah” means “House of Fire”, “Place of Fire”. The Temple of Fire Worshipers in the village of Surakhany is a State Historical and Architectural Reserve.
Quadrangular high altar and place of sacrifice from the 18th century
On me this place did not make any impression, perhaps due to the large number of tourists and museum workers who constantly follow you. The complex has been completely restored and therefore looks like a new building. In the cells located in the wall, mannequins are placed (as in the museum in Gobustan), depicting various actions from the life of the local inhabitants, from which one can understand what this or that room was intended for.
How to get to the temple of fire worshipers Ateshgah from Baku. On the Internet it is recommended to go to Surakhani from the Nariman Narimanov metro station by bus 184. A website containing information about bus routes in Baku,(unfortunately, does not work now) confirms this information. But I was unlucky, maybe there were some repair work that day or some other reasons, but this bus did not go from the indicated metro station. The employee in charge of public transport sent me to look for this route to the Udluz station. But I decided to go straight to the metro station Koroğlu (Koroğlu) and I was right. Bus number 184 stops under the first bridge towards the airport. In 2017 with bus stops Order has finally been restored in the Korogly metro area. Now the boarding point for each bus is known not only to locals, but also to tourists, thanks to information stands and markings on the asphalt. The bus we need, 184, leaves from platform No. 2.
Travel time to the temple of fire worshipers Ateshgah is about 25 minutes, the fare is 20 qepik. From the bus terminus you need to cross the railway and turn left. So, if you need to get to the Ateshgah Temple, I recommend taking bus 184 from the Korogly metro station.
Rock paintings and mud volcanoes in Gobustan
Gobustan is a village and reserve of the same name 60 km south of Baku. Here, 13 km from each other, there are 2 attractions: the petroglyph museum, consisting of two objects: the museum building and the rocks themselves, on which you can see the drawings of ancient people, and mud volcanoes. He described these places in detail, and also told how to get to Gobustan from the capital, in a separate article - Gobustan Nature Reserve in Azerbaijan.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I would like to say that Baku is a great city, with nice people and interesting places, in which it is worth spending at least a few days. You will not regret it! I hope my personal experience of visiting the capital of Azerbaijan, described here, will help you in preparing your trip.
If you notice any inaccuracies or just want to supplement the material, welcome to the comments!
Have fun with your travels and unforgettable experiences!
From the article you will learn about prices in Baku in rubles and dollars for groceries, food in restaurants, taxis, public transport, hotels in Baku and renting an apartment, as well as how much our vacation in Baku cost and how much money to take with us to Azerbaijan for 1 week.
As part of a study tour to Azerbaijan, we spent one week in Baku. We rented an apartment for 7 nights, looked around everything, went at 4 different places out of city.
Previously, Azerbaijan was considered a very expensive country for travel, but after the manat exchange rate in relation to $ and € dropped significantly, prices in Baku are no longer shocking. Now is the time to go to Azerbaijan.
Azerbaijan currency - Azerbaijani manat AZN
AZN rate
1 AZN = 34 rubles
1 AZN – 15 hryvnia
1$ = 1.7 AZN
1€ = 2.03 AZN
How much did our holiday in Baku cost?
In 7 days and 7 nights in Azerbaijan it was spent 450$ for two excluding airfare, including
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In a series of materials "Paper" is exploring a new trend: traveling through neighboring countries that were once part of the USSR. Local residents, tourists and St. Petersburg residents who moved to post-Soviet countries talk about ways to save money, the most convenient routes and dishes that you can’t try anywhere else.
What souvenir should you bring from Azerbaijan, how is it customary to cross the road to Baku, what can you see in the Caucasus mountains and what complaints do the guides of the city of Sheki have about the Hermitage? Three points of view on traveling around Azerbaijan - in a detailed guide "Papers".
A local's perspective: what you need to know before you go
Gunay Alizadeh
Born in Baku
The most important thing that every tourist planning a trip to the Republic of Azerbaijan should take into account is the amount of money. It’s no secret that Azerbaijan is not a budget country, so tourists will need to think about and allocate their funds for the duration of their vacation in advance.
Azerbaijan is an incredibly beautiful and diverse country, and that is why I do not advise tourists to stay long in the capital Baku, but to go travel to different cities (or regions, as we say) of the country. For example, I advise you to visit the Palace of the Sheki Khans - the former residence of the Sheki Khans, located in the city of Sheki, which was built in the 13th century.
In general, the city of Sheki has many interesting attractions, plus this city fascinates with its nature and incredibly delicious local cuisine, so I am convinced that when you visit Sheki, you will fall in love with our country. I can also recommend visiting cities such as Gabala (with a cable car), Lerik (with the most beautiful waterfalls), Gobustan (with the oldest archaeological reserve).
Despite the fact that Azerbaijan seeks to position itself as a European state, we should not forget that for many centuries the country lived according to strict Muslim canons and traditions. Part of our population, especially people outside Baku, from other cities and regions, still live on them. When traveling around Azerbaijan, you should definitely take into account the national mentality of the people.
How to move around the country more comfortably
Personally, I advise tourists to get to the bus station, which is located almost in the center of the capital, and then decide how to go: by bus or taxi, they leave daily in all directions of the country.
From 2 thousand rubles per day
From Baku to Ganja -
from 7,000 rubles
From Baku to Ganja -
about 400 rubles
From Baku to Ganja -
about 1800 rubles
What dish cannot be found in St. Petersburg
What souvenirs to bring from the country
In St. Petersburg, you will hardly find the national Azerbaijani dish - sweet Sheki pilaf with beans (if you are in Sheki, be sure to try it).
As a souvenir, I advise you to buy national carpets in miniature, a set of crystal glasses - armudas (it's nice to drink tea from them).
The view of a St. Petersburg resident: what surprises about the country and people
Anastasia Blokhina
Moved to Baku from St. Petersburg
The first shock for me was the climate. When I first moved, following the St. Petersburg habit, I carried a jacket, scarf and umbrella with me. Around the third week, my colleagues asked me why I was carrying all this, and when I answered: “Suddenly the weather will change,” they grinned and said: “Until September, it’s unlikely.” Only by the middle of my second summer in Baku (and it is here from April to October) did I finally get used to the fact that you can leave the house in a sundress and sandals and calmly walk like that until the evening.
The second surprise was a completely different perception of time. There is not as much fuss and haste here as in Moscow and St. Petersburg, many processes are often very slow, and people are relaxed, everyone is constantly late and rarely plans anything in advance. But the coolest fact that still amazes me is that you can leave work and be on the beach in half an hour.
In principle, I didn’t have any special stereotypes about Azerbaijan: I knew a lot about Baku and didn’t go into complete uncertainty. But I didn’t expect that there would be so many modern buildings, and most importantly, the speed with which they are being built.
How to plan your trip around the country
You need to spend three or four days in Baku, explore the city, and then get out to the sea and the mountains. There are nine climatic zones in Azerbaijan, so there is a completely different nature. My favorite place- Shahdag, a ski resort in the Greater Caucasus mountains, there is crystal clear air and impenetrable silence, coupled with beautiful views.
You definitely need to go to Sheki - this is an ancient city in which the Palace of the Sheki Khans is located - an incredibly beautiful building with stained glass windows, completely hand-painted, which was also built without a single nail. And, of course, spend at least a day on the Caspian beaches.
What places can become a discovery on a trip?
I’ve never heard of the Gobustan Nature Reserve, which is a forty-minute drive from Baku. This is a very interesting place: there are stone paintings from the Stone Age, open for viewing. And there you can observe an amazing phenomenon - mud volcanoes that form an absolutely Martian landscape.
I also never knew that this is the territory of Caucasian Albania and, it turns out, the ancestors of the Vikings lived on these lands before moving north. Thor Heyerdahl did a lot of research on this topic and often visited Azerbaijan.
The main discovery was how lamb can be cooked in different ways. Favorite dishes of Azerbaijani cuisine: dushbara soup (lamb broth with tiny dumplings), local white cheese made from sheep's milk, fresh bread from the tandoor and mangal salad, which is made from grilled vegetables. And besides sturgeon, there is excellent local fish - berge, kutum, which is prepared differently in each region.
A tourist's view: where to stay, what to eat, what to save on
Maria Rzaeva
Traveled around the country in May 2014
IN last years the city has changed significantly: they say that oil money has begun to pour into Baku. The houses in the center were built into carved stone boxes made in an oriental eclectic style. The business life of Baku is concentrated in the Flame Towers, a complex of three skyscrapers. Their outlines resemble tongues of flame. In the evening, with the onset of darkness, a light installation begins to work on the walls of skyscrapers: flames, the Azerbaijani flag and silhouettes of people waving the flag. The city is very reminiscent of Dubai: in the center you can find an old mosque standing near the walls of a sparkling high-rise building. When we went to Azerbaijan, we expected to see a post-Soviet poor country of Khrushchev.
It’s interesting to walk around the Old City: there used to be a fortress there, the walls of which were washed away by the Caspian Sea. The Old City, or Icheri Sheher, is a completely pedestrian and carefully restored area where there are small museums, foreign embassies, and a couple of galleries. But all this is in the center of an ancient fortress. If you move along the narrow street towards the “outskirts”, you can find laundry hanging on lines, children’s toys - ordinary Baku residents live in the buildings of the Old City.
What really looks wild are the portraits of Heydar Aliyev, the former president of Azerbaijan. Huge billboards with a smiling dead man (sometimes in a tuxedo) stand every 50 meters. Heydar Aliyev's birthday is celebrated throughout the country on May 10. On this day, a fantastically expensive flower festival is held in Baku. Plants are brought from all European countries to decorate at least the entire Heydar Aliyev Park with flower figures, and at most the entire center of Baku. Victory Day, against the backdrop of Aliyev’s birthday, passes unnoticed.
Almost all Azerbaijanis over 35 speak Russian well. Young people who understand Russian can only be found in service industry establishments. If you're not ready to spend a hot summer day in jeans, get ready to be the only person in Azerbaijan wearing shorts. In provincial cities like Ganja and Sheki, people will turn their heads at you. Azerbaijani men wear black tight pants in any weather. Girls - trousers or skirt below the knee.
Those who are afraid of fast driving or cars should take courage. There are very few pedestrian crossings in Baku. Azerbaijanis don’t really need them: townspeople cross a six-lane road with their hand outstretched in front of them in a “stop” gesture. For example, before our eyes, a 60-year-old woman did this, shouting: “We are Baku residents, we all do this, let’s go!”
There is chaos on the road to Baku. The only pattern that always works: if one person starts honking somewhere in the distance, for inexplicable reasons everyone around him starts honking, and so on until the wave fades away.
Real London cabs drive through Baku. According to legend, the Azerbaijani president really liked this taxi, and he ordered the cars to be brought to Baku. Only here they are not black, but purple. People call this taxi “eggplant”.
A hostel, and even more so a hotel, in Baku will cost you quite a lot. There are quite a few luxury hotels in the city center; All of them, of course, are designed for guests of equally luxurious skyscrapers. You should focus on rented housing. The most pleasant (and satisfying) option is to become guests in the home of an Azerbaijani family.
The main thing you should be prepared for when visiting an Azerbaijani family is food. Lots of food, more than you can imagine. Caucasian hospitality will leave the most vivid impressions of your trip. Most likely, before your arrival, they will slaughter a sheep, call all the women of the large family to cook, buy a couple of additional beds and change the chandelier to a more elegant one.
If you are planning to spend the evening in a restaurant, you can head to the café on the Caspian embankment - there are many of them there. The menu includes traditional Azerbaijani and Turkish dishes: dolma, dener, kutab (thin flatbread with a small amount of filling, such as potatoes, meat or herbs). In general, in Azerbaijan it is difficult to find a good eatery with affordable prices if you are not a fan of dener, this is the main local fast food.
There are not many restaurants on the streets, but it is easy to find a teahouse. The teahouse will offer you hookah, tea or a combination of these two items at a better price. Sweets and nuts are served with a hot kettle. Sometimes treats are simply added to your plate after the previous guest.
There is a real cult of tea in Azerbaijan; people drink it at any free moment. In all establishments, regardless of price category, the drink is served in traditional glass cups called armudas, which are generally believed to retain heat better. Armuds are always placed on a beautiful painted saucer.
Main attractions
Mountains
The main thing to see in Azerbaijan is the mountains. The best vacation for any Caucasian is to go there for a walk and eat “in a restaurant.” The “restaurant” in the mountains is a ten-meter-high lodge with a barbecue, a canopy under which there is a large table, long benches and several chairs (for older people).
Azerbaijanis go to such a “restaurant” with their whole family, bringing food and sometimes even dishes with them: for the first hour and a half, the women prepare salads from vegetables and herbs, set the table, and the men do the barbecue. At this time, guests can take a walk and look at the mountains of incredible beauty.
Maiden's Tower
The main symbol of Baku is the Maiden Tower. This is part of the fortress wall of the Old City. From the outside there is nothing special, the tower is just a tower, but inside a very modern multimedia museum is made literally out of nothing. The exhibition is based on several versions of the purpose of the tower: starting with the legend of the unfortunate bride of the Shah, ending with an ancient observatory.
In St. Petersburg, you can probably only buy ordinary baklava on a shelf with oriental sweets (multi-layer diamonds with a nut in the middle). Sheki baklava looks and tastes different. The layers of dough in it are dense candied “nets”. Between them lie various nuts, and the whole thing is soaked in syrup, honey and rose water. Sheki baklava is prepared in flat pans with a diameter of about a meter. The cook at the Sheki pastry shop will cut off pieces and transfer the baklava from a round baking tray to a special box.
Dovga is a soup made from kefir, eggs, herbs and sometimes rice, which must be simmered over a fire for about two hours. Dovgu eat from plates or drink from glasses, usually after meals. This saves a little from the heaviness after a mountain of barbecue. Dovga is essentially similar to ayran.
Dolma is available in all Caucasian restaurants - these are “dumplings” made from grape leaves and minced meat. Azerbaijani housewives use small young leaves to make dolma, approximately the size of a two-ruble coin. Interestingly, cabbage rolls are called “cabbage dolma”, and they are also small, about five centimeters in length.
Rose petal jam
A special variety of roses is used to make jam. The petals are torn off the flowers, and then they are cooked like regular berry jam. The jam smells, of course, like roses. If you put it in tea, you will see translucent petals opening at the bottom.
Azerbaijani pilaf
In Azerbaijan pilaf prepared with lamb and a lot of dried fruits, most importantly grapes. Sometimes pomegranate is added. The portion always includes a special “rice cake”.
