Who was the first to conquer Everest: history, interesting facts. Who was the first to conquer Everest: the story of Lee Everest's ascent

Everest is the highest mountain on the planet, strewn with the corpses of its conquerors, to which no one cares

Mount Everest is the highest point on the planet. Its height, according to various sources, ranges from 8844 to 8852 meters. Everest is located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and China. On the summit of Everest, located in China, strong winds blow at a speed of up to 200 km / h, and the air temperature at night drops to -60 ° C.

The history of conquering the highest point of the planet began in 1920, when the Dalai Lama first admitted British climbers here. According to statistics, since then about 1500 people have climbed the mountain ...

... and remained there forever, according to various estimates, from 120 to 200 people of different nationalities (including Russians). On Everest, both beginners and experienced climbers die. But not many people know that the dead remain where fate overtook them. Everest has long turned into a cemetery. The bodies lie on the slopes of Everest for years, and some for decades, and no one is in a hurry to lower them down for burial.

Anyone who plans to climb to the top should understand that he has a chance not to return. When lifting, not everything depends on you. Hurricane wind, a frozen valve on an oxygen cylinder, incorrect timing, an avalanche, exhaustion, and more - all this can lead to the death of a climber.

The first conqueror of Everest and its first victim was the British climber George Mallory. In 1924, he and his group went to the summit, but at an altitude of 8500 meters they lost sight of him, and for as much as 75 years. For many years, they wondered if Mallory had reached the highest point, and only in 1999, his remains were found very close to her. The body with a broken hip was lying towards the top, which means that until the last seconds of his life the Englishman tried to literally crawl up the mountain of his dreams.

Alas, he was not the hero of Everest: only in 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary, in conjunction with the Nepalese Sherpa, reached the peak of Everest. And after these two, daredevils from many countries of the world approached Everest from different sides. For some it became just a personal feat, others set historical records here.

But a person does not always triumph over harsh nature. Submitting to people, the mountain collects ransom with their lives. More than 200 people have died on Everest in 60 years. Until the 90s, the mortality rate here was a record 37%, in recent years it has decreased to 4%. Even on the neighboring Himalayan peaks, also above 8000 meters, this percentage is higher. But it is on Everest that death takes on the most dramatic connotation. Here people die not only from trauma and fatigue, but often because of the vain indifference of their neighbors.

A simple example: in 1996, a group of Japanese climbers while climbing came across three freezing Indian colleagues. The Japanese went on to the top, all the Indians were killed. In 1998, rock climber Sergei Arsentiev and his American wife Francis made an oxygen-free ascent to Mount Everest, but the mountain did not let them go. The couple missed each other in a snowstorm, Sergei, in search of his wife, disappeared without a trace, his body was found only a few years later. And Francis died on the descent for two days. Several groups passed by without providing any assistance. And only another British couple interrupted their expedition in an attempt to save the dying. They could no longer do anything, and themselves, almost dying from the cold, returned back. A year later, the Woodhalls nevertheless made their ascent and saw a dead woman in the place where they left her last time. For the next 8 years, they saved money to return to Everest in order to bury Francis. After all, climbing a mountain is not cheap. Just for access to the mountain, the Chinese side charges $ 5,500 for a group of 20 people, the Nepalese - about 70 thousand for a team of seven climbers.

Another tragedy of Everest shocked the whole world in 2006. 42 people passed by dying without oxygen, David Sharpe! One of them was the Discovery Channel TV crew, who asked Sharpe a couple of questions, gave him oxygen and left him alone. Another was the disabled Mark Inglis, who made an unprecedented climb with prostheses. He did not sacrifice his unique expedition for the dying man. As a result, Inglis reached the top, becoming a hero with a tarnished conscience. The first conqueror of Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary, indignantly declared then:

On our expedition it was unthinkable that we would leave someone in trouble to die. Human life was, is and will be much more important than the top of the mountain.

However, more than 120 bodies still remain unburied on the slopes of Everest, through which the next conquerors have to literally step over.

Factrum wants to tell you some stories about the conquest of Everest. Warning: the text is not for the impressionable!

1.40 passing by and one film crew of the Discovery channel

For the first time, the general public learned about the "terrible" morals prevailing on the approaches to Everest in May 2006, when the circumstances of the death of David Sharp, a British climber, who tried to conquer the summit alone, became known. He never made it to the top, dying from hypothermia and oxygen starvation, but it is noteworthy that a total of 40 people walked past the slowly freezing math teacher, and no one helped him. Among those who passed by was the film crew of the Discovery channel, whose journalists interviewed the dying Sharpe, left him oxygen and went on.

The general public was outraged by the "immoral" act of the "passed by", but the truth is that no one could help Sharpe at such a height, even with all the desire... It was simply not humanly possible.

2. "Green Shoes"

It is not known when the concept of "green shoes" entered the everyday life of the conquerors of Everest and became folklore. But it is known for certain that they belong to the Indian climber Tsewang Paljor, one of the victims of the "bloody May" of 1996 - that month a total of 15 people died on Everest. This is the largest number of victims in one season in the entire history of conquering the highest peak on the planet. For years, Paljor's green boots have been a landmark for those who climb the mountain.

In May 1996, several commercial expeditions climbed Everest at once - two American, one Japanese, one Indian and one Taiwanese. They still argue about who is to blame for the fact that most of their participants never returned. Several films were filmed on the events of that May; the surviving participants wrote several books. Someone blames the weather, someone the guides who started descending earlier than their clients, someone other expeditions that did not help those in distress or even hindered them.

3. Spouses Arsentievs

In May 1998, the spouses Francis and Sergei Arsentievs attempted to conquer Everest without additional oxygen. A daring idea, but quite real - without additional equipment (at least 10-12 kg) you can go up and down faster, but the risk of complete exhaustion from lack of oxygen is very high. If during the ascent or descent something goes wrong and the climbers stay in the “death zone” longer than the physical capabilities of the body allow, they will inevitably die.

In the base camp at an altitude of 8200 meters, the couple spent five days, twice their attempts to climb ended in failure, time passed, and the strength left with it. Finally, on May 22, they went out for the third time and ... conquered the summit.

However, during the descent, the couple lost sight of each other and Sergei was forced to descend alone. Frances lost too much strength and simply fell, unable to continue. A few days later, an Uzbek group walked past the freezing Francis without helping her. But its participants told Sergei that they saw his wife and that, taking oxygen cylinders, went in search ... and died. His body was found much later.

The last people that Francis saw and who, accordingly, saw her alive, were British climbers Ian Woodall and Katie O'Dowd, who spent several hours with the dying woman. According to them, she kept repeating “do not leave me,” but the British could no longer help her and left, leaving her to die alone.

4. Perhaps the first true conquerors of Everest

No wonder those who strive to conquer Everest say that it is not enough to climb - until you descend, the summit cannot be considered conquered... If only because there will be no one to tell that you really were there. Such is the sad fate of climbers George Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who attempted to conquer Mount Everest in 1924. Whether they reached the top or not is unknown.

In 1933, at an altitude of 8460 m, the hatchet of one of the climbers was found. In 1991, at an altitude of 8480 m, an oxygen cylinder was found, produced in 1924 (and, accordingly, belonging to either Irwin or Mallory). And finally, in 1999, Mallory's body was found - at an altitude of 8,200 meters. Neither a camera nor a photograph of his wife was found with him. The latter fact makes the researchers believe that something Mallory, or both climbers still reached the top, as Mallory, before going to Everest, told his daughter that he would definitely leave a photo of his wife at the top.

5. Everest does not forgive "not like everyone else"

Everest severely punishes those who try to act "not like everyone else." It is not for nothing that most successful ascents are made either in May or in September-October - during the rest of the year the weather on the mountain is not conducive to ascents and descents. It is too cold (until May), the weather conditions change too quickly, the risk of avalanches is too high (in summer).

Bulgarian Hristo Prodanov decided to prove that climbing Mount Everest in April is quite possible - to do what no one had done before. He was a very experienced climber who climbed many iconic peaks.

In April 1984, Christo undertook the ascent of Everest - alone and without oxygen. He successfully conquered the summit, becoming at the same time the first Bulgarian to set foot on the highest mountain on the planet and the first person to do so in April. However, on the way back, he fell into a fierce storm and froze to death.

6. The creepiest corpse on Everest

Hannelore Schmatz became the first woman and the first German citizen to die while approaching the summit of Mount Everest. It happened in October 1979. However, she is known not only for this reason and not because she died of exhaustion on the descent, having successfully conquered Everest, but because for another good 20 years her body frightened those who tried to conquer Everest. She, blackened in the cold, froze in a sitting position towards the ascent to Mount Everest, with wide eyes and hair fluttering in the wind. They tried to lower her body from the top, but several expeditions failed, and the participants of one of them died.

In the end, the mountain took pity and during one particularly strong storm at the beginning of the 2000s, Hannelore's body was thrown into the abyss.

7. Leave anniversaries alive

Sherp Lobsang Shering, nephew of Tenzing Norgay, the first official conqueror of Everest, in May 1993 decided to climb in memory of what his uncle had done. Fortunately, the 40th anniversary of the conquest of the mountain was just approaching. However, Everest is not very fond of "heroes of the day" - Shering successfully climbed the highest mountain on the planet, but died during the descent, when he already believed that he was safe.

8. You can climb Everest as much as you like, but one day he will take you

Babu Chiri Sherpa is a legendary Sherpa, a guide who has visited Everest ten times. The person who spent 21 hours on the top of the mountain without oxygen, the person who climbed to the top in 16 hours 56 minutes, which is still a record. The 11th expedition ended tragically for him. At an altitude of 6,500 meters, the "nursery" for this guide, he photographed the mountains, accidentally miscalculated his movements, stumbled and fell into a crevice, in which he crashed to death.

9. He died, and someone survived

Brazilian Vitor Negrete died in May 2006 while descending after climbing Mount Everest. This was the second ascent of Negrete, and this time he planned to become the first Brazilian to conquer the mountain without oxygen. As he climbed, he made a cache in which he left food and oxygen, which he could use on the descent. However, on the way back, after a successfully completed mission, he found that his cache had been ravaged and all supplies had disappeared. Negreta did not have the strength to get to the base camp and he died very close to it. Who took the supplies and the life of the Brazilian remains unclear.

Before talking about money, let's remember that 2014 and 2015 were the worst years on Everest: they did their "dirty deed", and during this period only one small bunch of climbers climbed from the southern, Nepalese side to the top of the world:.

After such terrible events (when 40 people died on Everest in two years), it is safe to say that at the top of the world there is now no such thing as "the safest route of climbing" ...

However, 2016 brought the mountaineering industry back on track at the highest peak in the world, and that season was already the second most successful ascents: 641 people reached the summit.

But a new record was set by the 2019 season: this time 871 climbers climbed to the summit in the spring, of which 641 climbers climbed from the Nepal side and 230 climbers from the Tibetan side!
All ascents were carried out within 11 days (without interruption).

Undoubtedly, the main topic for us was the ascent to the top of five Ukrainian climbers, who climbed in three different expeditions:

- planned to climb Everest (from the northern, Tibetan side) along the standard route using oxygen tanks and the help of Sherpas.
Consisting of: Valentin Sipavin (Kharkov) - group leader, Pavel Sidorenko (Kharkov), Vitaly Kozubsky (Kiev), Ekaterina Klenova (Russia)

Now let's briefly talk about the state of the financial side of the issue:

Overall, prices for the upcoming 2020 season are up from 2019; The key element in the price change has become.

In other matters, the trend of an increase in the minimum and maximum prices still persists.
The average estimate was influenced by the rise in prices from China, where climbers will have to pay 58% more for a permit than it was last year.
Also, several highly paid travel companies have entered the market, providing their clients with a VIP service.

For example, the travel company Seven Summit Treks has announced its unique offer for VIP clients: “Platinum Everest Expedition 2020”. The cost of participation in the expedition under this program is 160,000 US dollars!
Note that up to this point the maximum prices are.
Himex, which has organized expeditions for many years at prices of $ 55,000 to $ 60,000, has now set a price tag of $ 70,000.
At the same time, Nepalese travel companies, which in past seasons asked for $ 32,000 for participation in the expedition, have now set a price tag of $ 38,000 for the 2020 season.
Thus, the minimum price offer has increased from 28,000 to 32,000 dollars, in other words, it is still cheaper to climb Everest with a Nepalese travel agency.

As for the question of which side is the best in terms of pricing, Tibet still wins over Nepal, although this gap is narrowing very quickly.

In terms of safety, people die on both sides of Everest, and most of the deaths are now associated primarily with the inexperience of the climbers themselves, and not because of which tour operator the climber chose.

However, despite such an increase in prices, as before, climbing from Tibet remains in the ranks of the cheapest offers, of course, with the exception of the most eminent Western travel companies.
Thus, the average price of a regular, low and medium-budget expedition to Mount Everest for one participant is US $ 42,500 if ascending from the side of Nepal, with a maximum price of US $ 67,000; and US $ 43,875 if you climb to the top from the Tibet side, with a maximum price of US $ 85,000.

In general, the price range for the expedition ranges from $ 32,000 to $ 130,000.

The most expensive expedition cost is fixed at around 160,000 US dollars, such a price offer for sophisticated gourmets can be offered by Seven Summit Treks.
Slightly cheaper, for $ 130,000 (), customers can go up the mountain at International Mountain Guides, Furtenbach, 7 Summit Club, RMI.

Ultimately, over the past five years, travel companies have increased the cost of Everest expeditions by 6% from Nepal and 12% from China.

Recently, many inexpensive Nepalese tour operators have entrenched themselves in this market, competing on price, but now they also realize that they are losing a lot of money and are starting to raise prices.
On the other side of the mountain, China also does not want to stay away from such a large cash flow, and is looking for new ones,

Everest commercial climbing works like any other competitive market, where the quantity and quality of the offer is determined by the demand and the capabilities of the clients.
From year to year, more and more climbers from India and China come to Everest, gradually displacing traditional climbers from Europe and the USA.

As a result, if we predict the development of this market for the next five years, then we can assume that, regardless of which side of Everest you choose for the expedition, the price of participation will increase more and more.

It is worth noting that now on the sidelines of the government of Nepal there are rumors about a possible increase from 2020 in the cost of permits to Everest from the current $ 11,000 to $ 15,000 for each climber. But for now, this remains only a rumor, and in this review we will not take into account this possible price.

So, for ascents from the North, Chinese side:

In 2020, the Chinese government raised the cost of climbing Everest permits for a team of four or more climbers from $ 9,950 to $ 15,800 per person on the team - a 58% increase.
At the same time, China essentially banned solo ascents to Everest and ascents in small groups ( Last year, the cost of a permit for a team of 1 to 3 people, from the Chinese side, was $ 19,500 for each person in the team! But this price included: transportation from the starting point to the base camp, hotels, a liaison officer, a garbage fee, five yaks for the hike to the base camp and four yaks for the pod from the base camp.).

In addition, there is also an additional charge of $ 200 per person per day for time spent in Lhasa.
Further, if you want to take a Nepalese Sherpa to the ascent from the Chinese side, then you will have to pay an additional $ 3300 for a "work permit" for each Sherpa, plus pay them at least $ 5000 for work.

And most of these climbers are climbing on commercial expeditions.
Only a very small part of climbers (literally a few) undertake solo ascents or ascents as independent, non-profit groups.

When climbing on their own, the following costs are borne by climbers:

buying air tickets to Kathmandu;
purchase of provisions for at least 6 weeks of the expedition
flight to Lukla or Lhasa
hiring porters and sherpas to transport cargo to the base camp
setting up and equipping your base camp
self-cooking
independent provision of weather forecasts
independent equipment of high-altitude camps
rent of existing, fixed railings (or self-hitching of your own)
self-transfer of the necessary equipment to high-altitude camps
purchase (rent) of oxygen cylinders and regulators
after the ascent, hiring porters to transport the goods back from the base camp

If in this generalized list (and he does not disclose smaller costs), the climber can see savings in comparison with commercial expeditions, then, in general, everything turns the other way around: the costs of night climbing increase from about $ 15,000 compared to commercial expeditions. It is also worth considering the incredibly increasing physical difficulty of such solo ascents.

In general, the cost of purchasing permits, visas, routing, delivery of goods, insurance, for example for a team of six people, will cost $ 13,000 for each team member at today's prices.
But, if it will be one person - the fee will increase for him to $ 35,000 and even more.

Equipment, food, tents and other public elements of the expedition for each of the participants will cost about $ 25,000 (this price includes oxygen tanks and sherpas).
This amount also corresponds to the solo ascent.

Thus, in a team ascent, the minimum total cost of climbing Everest for each of the team members will be from $ 38,000-40,000.

For a solo ascent, this minimum amount rises to $ 60,000.

Therefore, at present, many of the independent teams or solo climbers are joining with other similar non-profit groups to share in the expenses of expeditions, if, of course, their plans for the ascent coincide.
But in any case, the transfer of equipment to the base camp and payment of permits are included in the ascent plans of any group, and in this case it is much easier to unite with other participants.

Also, you can team up and hire one group of Sherpas and cooks for several simultaneous expeditions.

Thus, depending on the option of hiring sherpas and cooks (and at least 2 sherpas and one cook should participate in the expedition), the cost of climbing Mount Everest rises to:

$ 55,000 in case of team ascent
$ 85,000 in case of night climbing (with own hiring of sherpas and cooks)

This is only the main, but not the full part of the cost of climbing Mount Everest.
Personal and incidental expenses are not included here.

Below we provide a list of the required costs in the case of a non-commercial ascent of Mount Everest from Nepal in 2020 prices.

(But still, despite such a detailed list of costs, all items of expenses are not taken into account here, for example, there is no price for an insurance policy ...)

Personal expenses on the way to Nepal from $ 9,500 - $ 17,000, including:

Flights: from $ 1,500 to $ 7,000 depending on the class and route of the flight, as well as depending on the amount of excess baggage. According to statistics, climbers most often use the services of airlines in Thailand, Turkey, Qatar and East China.
Transportation from Kathmandu to Lukla: $ 350 round trip per person. Some climbers prefer trekking on foot, which takes about a week for experienced people (from Kathmandu to base camp). The cost of such a trip varies from 400 to 1000 $ (including overnight stays, meals and assistance from porters on the route).
Hotel and food in Kathmandu and Luklu: from $ 300 to $ 700 depending on living conditions
Nepalese Visa: $ 100
Medical vaccinations: $ 200
Personal inventory (gear, clothing, sleeping bags, etc.): up to $ 7000

Road to Base Camp: from $ 1250 to $ 1800, including:

Transportation of cargo by yaks and / from the Base Camp: $ 40 per yak for one day of crossing - price for 70 kg of cargo. The minimum hire for a team is 4 yaks for 4 days - or $ 640. Change 2017 (From China, the cost of a yak: $ 300 per yak per day)
Cargo transportation by Sherpas to / from the Base Camp: $ 20 per carrier / sherpa per day - price for 27 kilograms of cargo. Minimum hire for a team - 3 porters for 6 days - or $ 360 Change 2017
Tips and food during the transition to the Base Camp: from $ 20 to $ 100 per person per day. For 7 days of trekking - from $ 140 to $ 700
National Park entrance fee - $ 100 per team

Price for climbing Mount Everest: from $ 18,000 to $ 27,800, including

Liaison officer participation: $ 3000 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) Change 2017
Tour operator fee - $ 2500 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) Change 2017
Mandatory participation in the ascent of each climber, one mountain guide - Sherpas - $ 4000 from each climber - ()
Base Camp medical service fee: $ 100 per person
Permit for the ascent: $ 11,000 per person in the team, regardless of the number of team members (). From the side of China, the cost of a permit: $ 15,800 for each in a team of 4 people ().
Security deposit: $ 4000 from the team (returned after the team has taken out their expeditionary garbage from Everest (but not always returned ...). From China, garbage tax in the amount of $ 4000 from the team ()
Khumbu Icefall Sherpa Job (Icefall Doctors Team): $ 2500 per team or $ 600 per person Change 2016
Sherpas' work laying the railing above the Khumbu Icefall: $ 200 per person Change 2018
Weather forecast: from $ 0 to $ 1000
Sacred Pooja Ceremony (Prayer for Successful Ascent): $ 300

High-altitude camps: from $ 3800 to $ 8800 including:

Arrangement of tents for high-altitude camps (bed, kitchen, toilet, warehouse): 4 high-altitude camps for 3 people: $ 3000
Chefs and Assistant Cooks Work for 6 Weeks Expedition Time: $ 5000
Burner food and fuel for 6 weeks expedition time: $ 800 per person

Climbing: from $ 2,200 to $ 14,000, including:

Oxygen system: from $ 50 to $ 550 for one cylinder (at least 5 cylinders are required for the ascent = from $ 250 to $ 2700) - the price does not include bringing oxygen cylinders to high-altitude camps by the Sherpas.
Oxygen mask: $ 450
Oxygen Regulator: $ 450
High Altitude Sherpa Job as Personal Companion: $ 5000
Delivery of oxygen points by sherpas along the ascent route: $ 2000
Payment for Sherpas in case of their ascent to the summit of Everest from $ 250 (small training on the route), up to $ 2000 (per person when climbing the summit)
First aid kit for the ascent: $ 500 - 2000

Other expenses: from $ 8,500 to $ 33,000, including

- the price is determined depending on the height of the evacuation and the place of landing Change 2016
Evacuation without helicopter: $ 70 to $ 500 Change 2017
Medical insurance: $ 500 Change 2016
Insurance in case of cancellation of the expedition (for any reason: from medical to force majeure) - $ 3000
Satellite phone (personal) from $ 1000 to $ 3000 depending on the model
Payment for communication services: $ 1000
Sherpa Equipment Payment: $ 0 - $ 2000 Change 2016
Insurance of Sherpas participating in the expedition: from $ 1000 ()

TOTAL: for independent climbing Everest You will need costs in the amount of: $ 70,000 (for experienced climbers who have already climbed Everest) and from about $ 45,000 - $ 60,000 for climbers participating in a group ascent

Recall that in the case of participation in a commercial expedition, the average cost is approximately $ 43,000 (when organizing the ascent by Nepalese agencies). The maximum reaches $ 130,000 (when organizing the ascent by foreign agencies).

Over the past decades, such large Western tour operators as Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents (AAI), Jagged Globe, Himalayan Experience (Himex), International Mountain Guides (IMG) and others, have lifted hundreds of climbers to the summit of Everest at prices ranging from 40,000 to 65,000 US dollars for the "All Inclusive" package.

But times are changing. In the past few years, there has been intense competition from Nepalese travel companies, in which Sherpas take part, who account for dozens of successful ascents to the top of the world. They are much more modest in terms of requests compared to premium western mountain guides, which can range from $ 10,000 to $ 25,000.
And given the lower salaries and base camp assistants and sherpas on the route, Nepalese tour operators can afford to cut from half to a third of the price offered by Western companies.

So, in 2014, the Nepalese company Seven Summites Treks offered a place in the expedition to Everest for only $ 18,000. In 2019, they already offer US $ 38,000 for a place in the team when climbing from Nepal, although the real price of services is apparently no higher than US $ 30,000.

Many Nepalese sherpas - climbers now have the UIAGM international mountain guide certificate and have climbed more Himalayan peaks in their careers than Western climbers.

Another famous Nepalese company, Dreamers Destination, has increased the price for its services from 36,000 to 50,000 US dollars.
At the same time, one of the cheapest way to climb Mount Everest is the Makaluextreme service: only $ 35,000 for ascents from the south side.

The latest example on this list is TAGnepal, run by Tendi Shepa. He is an IFMGA / UIAGM certified mountain guide with 11 successful ascents of Everest and other peaks in the Himalayas, Alps, Andes and China.
In addition, Tendy is a highly qualified specialist in mountain rescue, who took training courses in Switzerland in 2011.
For the 2019 season, his company is offering a seat on the Everest expedition for $ 52,000 from Tibet and $ 55,000 from Nepal.

Well, if you have a lot of money and you are used to full personal service, then for your services such companies as Alpenglow and Fuenbach can offer prices from 85,000 US dollars to 110,000 dollars per climber, which is two to three times higher than the average price for north side.
In addition, if you wish to have your own western mountain guide who will only accompany you to the summit and back, the cost of the expedition increases to 130,000 US dollars.

For example, we will give the current prices for climbing Mount Everest in various travel agencies (these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to and from Kathmandu, personal expenses and expenses for unforeseen situations):

In general, the total cost of the Everest expedition ranges from $ 30,500 to $ 85,000, depending on the tour operator and the services provided.
But even $ 85,000 is not the maximum amount for the expedition. If you wish to climb the summit with a personal western guide (certified professional mountain guide not from Nepal or China), then, for example, the tour operator Seven Summit Treks
will bid $ 160,000 and tour operators International Mountain Guides and tour operator RMI will bid $ 130,000!

Prices in 2019 and ascents carried out in 2013, 2016 and 2017

(these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to / from Kathmandu, personal expenses and expenses for unforeseen situations)

Company	Number of climbers in the expedition	South wall. guides - Nepalese Sherpas *	South wall. guides - foreign climbers *	North wall	Ascents completed in 2013 and 2016(2014 and 2015 on Everest were practically no ascents)
Average price of Western companies		$44 000	$67 000	$55 000
Average price of Nepalese companies		$40 000	N / A	$35 000
Adventure Consultants	8-12	N / A	$65,000	N / A	283 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides). has been working since 1990 2013: 7 out of 10 clients, 5 guides, 21 Sherpas 2016: 5 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 16 Sherpas 2017: 8 out of 15 clients, 3 guides, 19 sherpas 2018: 6 clients, 2 guides, 13 sherpas
Adventure peaks	10-12	48,400	N / A	$38 250	2013: 4 out of 8 clients 2016: 6 out of 6 clients 2017: 3 out of 4 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
Adventure Global	6-10	39,500	N / A	43,000	2016: 3 clients, 4 sherpas 2017: 0 clients out of 2, 0 sherpas
Altitude junkies	8-12	N / A	N / A	$42 500	2013 (North): 3 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 7 Sherpas 2016 (South): 5 out of 7 clients, 1 guide, 11 Sherpas. In 2017 - 2018 does not conduct expeditions to Everest
AlpenGlow	4-8	N / A	N / A	$85,000	2013: 1 in 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 2 guides, 3 sherpas 2017: 1 client, 2 guides, 4 sherpas 2018: 5 out of 9 clients, 2 guides, 5 Sherpas
Alpine Ascents International	8-16	N / A	$70,000	N / A	281 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1992. 78% successful ascents since 2004 2013: 13 out of 16 clients, 3 guides, 21 Sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas 2017: 5 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 3 guides, 8 sherpas
Arnold coster	4-8	$44 500	N / A	36,500	2017: 2 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas
Benegas Brothers / Mountain Madness	9-12	N / A	$75 000	N / A	2018: 1 client, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
Climbing The Seven Summits	9-12	44,000	$62 000	N / A	2018: 7 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas
Furtenbach Adventures	6-10	N / A	$64 000	$64 000	2016 - the first season for the company on Everest 2016 (South): 5 clients, 6 Sherpas 2017: 7 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas 2018: 5 clients, 6 sherpas
Himalayan Experience (Himex)	20-30	N / A	$70,000	N / A	380 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) in operation since 1994, 0 - 96% of successful ascents 2013: 12 out of 12 clients, 2 out of 2 guides, 12 Sherpas 2016: 5 out of 6 clients, 1 out of 1 guides, 6 Sherpas 2017: 4 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2018: 2 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
High Adventure Expeditions	4-8	$46,000	N / A	N / A	no information
International mountain guides	12-20	$46,000	$59,000	N / A	482 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1991. 85% successful ascents since 2006 2013: 16 out of 31 clients, 4 guides, 24 Sherpas 2016: 18 out of? client, 2 guides, 26 sherpas 2017: 20 out of 29 clients, 3 guides, 32 Sherpas 2018: 12 clients, 3 guides, 14 sherpas
Jagged globe	8-12	N / A	$57,000	N / A	2013: 10 out of 10 clients, 3 guides, 11 Sherpas 2016: 4 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas 2017: 13 out of 20 clients, 13 Sherpas 2018: 4 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
Kobler & Partner	8-12	N / A	$57,500	$62,500	2017: 9 out of 11 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas
Madison mountaineering	8-12	N / A	$65,000	N / A	2016: 7 out of 9 clients, 5 guides, 15 Sherpas 2017: 8 out of 12 clients, 4 guides, 14 Sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 sherpas
Mountain trip	4-8	N / A	$67,000	N / A	2013: 1 in 4 clients, 0 guides, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2017: 4 out of 6 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas
Mountain Professionals	4-8	N / A	$65,000	N / A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
Benegas brothers	4-8	N / A	$67,000	N / A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 2 guides, 5 sherpas
RMI	4-10	N / A	$74,000	N / A	2013: 0 out of 3 clients, 2 guides, 3 Sherpas
Peak freaks	8-15	$49,500	N / A	N / A	2013: 4 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 Sherpas No expeditions to Mount Everest in 2017
7 Summits Club	20	N / A	$65,000	$70,000	2013: 9 out of 13 clients, 1 guide, 9 sherpas 2016: 15 out of 22 clients, 4 guides, 12 sherpas 2017: 11 out of 12 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas 2018: 20 out of 22 clients, 6 guides, 33 Sherpas
Summit climb	5-20	$38,500	N / A	$32,000	227 total ascents (both north and south, including clients, guides and sherpas) 2013: 12 out of 12 on the South Side and 11 out of 14 on the North Side 2016: 4 out of 8 clients (south), 10 out of 11 clients (north) 2017: 3 out of 16 clients from the South and 6 out of 10 from the North 2018: 4 out of 8 clients from the South and 10 out of 11 from the North
Vertical Tour	5-20	N / A	N / A	$46,000	no information
Nepalese travel agencies
Adventure ascent	40,000	N / A	N / A	N / A
Arnold coster	N / A	N / A	38,500A	N / A
Ascent himalaya	45,000	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017 (South): 8 out of 9 clients, 9 Sherpas
Asian trekking	20	$36,000	N / A	$32,000	2013 (South): 14 out of 26 customers, 21 Sherpas, 2013 (North): 5 out of 5 customers, 4 Sherpas, 2017: 10 out of 26 clients, 15 Sherpas 330 general ascents (clients, Sherpas) since 2003
Arun Treks (India Transcend Adventures)	N / A	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017 (South): 16 out of 25 clients, 21 Sherpas
Dreamers Destinations	8-12	$42 000	N / A	$40 000	2017: 4 out of 5 clients, 4 sherpas
Seven Summits Treks	30-50	$38,000	N / A	$30,000	2017: 10 out of 23 clients, 5 Sherpas
Satori	N / A	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017: 7 out of 10 clients, 6 Sherpas
Shangri-La Nepal Trek	30-50	45,000	N / A	N / A
TAGnepal	N / A	N / A	$55,000	$52,000	2: 1 ratio of clients to certified guides; 1: 1 ratio of clients to non-certified guides
Expedition Himalaya	5-10	35,000	N / A	35,000	2017: 1 out of 6 clients, 1 sherpa
Highland Expedition	40,000	N / A	N / A	N / A
Himalayan ascent	5-10	42,500	N / A	N / A	2013: 4 clients, 6 Sherpas, 2017: 4 clients, 6 Sherpas
Makaluextreme	1-30	35,000	N / A	N / A	2017: 5 clients out of 6 and 5 Sherpas out of 6 2018: 4 clients out of 5, 5 guides, 1 sherpas

In Nepal lives a man who has conquered the "top of the world" 21 times, and at the very top, which was once the seabed, there are amazing spiders. The mountain is still growing, it has not even two, but four official names and, by the way, is not the highest in the world.

(10 photos total)

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1. Himalayan spiders

Even high in the mountains, where there is barely enough oxygen to breathe, we cannot hide from the spiders. Euophrys omnisuperstes, better known as the Himalayan jumping spider, hides in the nooks and crannies of Mount Everest, making it one of the tallest living creatures on Earth. Climbers found them at an altitude of 6,700 meters. These spiders are capable of feeding on almost anything that can fly so high. With the exception of some species of birds, these are the only living creatures that constantly live at such a height. True, in 1924, during the British expedition to Everest, a previously unknown species of grasshoppers was found here - now they are on display in the British Museum of Natural History.

2. The record of climbing Mount Everest - 21 times

Appa Tenzing, also known as Appa Sherpa, was able to conquer the top of the world 21 times. His first ascent took place in May 1990, after three earlier failed attempts. Apparently, having learned all the secrets of climbing, Appa continued to conquer Everest every year - from 1990 to 2011. He has repeatedly emphasized that the consequences of global warming are clearly visible in the mountains. Appa is worried about melting snow and ice, making climbing the mountain more difficult, as well as the safety of his people after a melted glacier flooded his home village. Appa made the last four ascents of Everest as part of ecological expeditions.

Conquering Everest is not as romantic as it might seem at first glance. Thanks to the significant development of the tourism industry, there has been a significant increase in the number of ascents to the highest mountain in the world. So, in 1983, only 8 people made it to the top, and in 2012 only 234 people got there in one day. It is not surprising that when conquering Everest, traffic jams and even fights occur. So, in 2013, climbers Uli Stack, Simon Moreau and Jonathan Griffith got into a fight with the Sherpas after the latter asked to stop the ascent. The Sherpas have accused the climbers of causing an avalanche. A dispute began, which, on emotions, escalated into a fierce fight with the use of stones. It came to death threats, but the climbers returned to base camp, where the rest of the "colleagues" took their side. Even the Nepal army had to intervene in the incident - then both sides of the conflict signed an agreement on its peaceful settlement.

4.450 million years of history

Although the Himalayan Mountains were formed about 60 million years ago, their history begins much earlier. 450 million years ago, limestone and rocks were part of the sedimentary layers below sea level. Over time, the rocks at the bottom of the ocean came together and began to move up 11 centimeters per year. Fossils of sea creatures can now be found on the summit of Mount Everest. They were first discovered in 1924 by the conductor Noel Odell - thus it was proved that the summit of Everest was once under water. The first rock samples from the world's summit were brought back by Swiss climbers in 1956 and a team from America in 1963.

5. Disputes about height

What is the exact height of Mount Everest? It depends on which country side you are on. China said it was 8,844 meters, while Nepal said it was 8,848 meters. This dispute happened due to the fact that China believes that the height should be equal only to the height of the rock, excluding meters of frozen snow from the total. Whether it is true or not, it remains a double-edged sword, but the international community still includes snow at the height of the mountain. China and Nepal came to an agreement in 2010, finally establishing an official altitude of 8,848 meters.

6. Everest is still growing

According to recent measurements, both China and Nepal may be in error in terms of height. In 1994, a research team found that Everest continues to grow 4 millimeters a year. The Indian subcontinent was originally an independent piece of land that collided with Asia to form the Himalayas. But the continental plates are still moving and the mountains are rising in height. American researchers in 1999 installed special equipment that allows you to monitor its change. Their more accurate measurements could lead to the fact that the official height of the mountain will be changed to 8,850 meters. In the meantime, other tectonic activity leads to a decrease in Everest, but the results together still ensure its growth.

7. Everest has several names

Most of us know the mountain under the names Everest and Chomolungma. The last name came from Tibet, which means "Divine (qomo) mother (ma) of life (lung)". But these are not the only names by which the mountain is known. So, in Nepal it is called Sagarmatha ("Forehead in the sky"), and she herself is part of the Nepalese National Park "Sagarmatha". The mountain owes its name to Everest to the British surveyor Andrew Waugh, who did not manage to find a single common name even after careful study of all maps of the surrounding area and communication with its inhabitants. Andrew decided to name the mountain after the geographer who worked in India, George Everest, the leader of the British team that first explored the Himalayas. Everest itself refused such an honor, but still the British representatives changed the name of the mountain in 1865. Previously, it was simply called the 15th peak.

8. Traffic jams from people

Climbing Mount Everest will cost those who wish several thousand dollars, but the number of those eager to conquer the summit is steadily growing. In 2012, German climber Ralf Dujmowitz snapped a photograph of hundreds of people queuing up to climb. By the way, because of bad weather and a long line, Ralph had to turn back at one of the passes called the South Col. And on May 19, 2012, those wishing to climb the top of the mountain were forced to queue for about two hours - in one day, 234 people climbed Everest. However, on the same day, during the ascent, four people died, which raised some concerns about the safety of conquering the summit, and experts from Nepal installed a railing that allows you to fight congestion. Now the question of installing the stairs at the top is being discussed.

There are many photographs showing the beauty of Everest from all possible angles, but there is also a downside to the coin: photographs of the huge amount of debris left by climbers. According to some estimates, Everest contains about 50 tons of waste of various origins, and their amount increases in proportion to the number of visits. On the slopes of the mountain, you can see used oxygen tanks, climbing equipment and other climbers' waste. In addition, the mountain is "adorned" by the bodies of the dead climbers - because of the difficulties with their transportation, the victims of an unfortunate coincidence of circumstances remain lying on the slopes. Some of them serve as reference points for other climbers. For example, Tsewanga Palzhora, who died in 1996, “marks” the height of 8500 meters and even received the nickname “Green Shoes” - for the noticeable bright green shoes. Since 2008, a special ecological expedition (Eco Everest Expidition) has been climbing the mountain every year, the purpose of which is to fight the pollution of Everest. At the moment, thanks to this expedition, more than 13 tons of waste have been collected. In 2014, the government of Nepal introduced a new rule that every climber must bring at least 8 kilograms of waste when descending the mountain, otherwise the $ 4,000 deposit will be lost. There is also the creative project "Everest 8848": its artists turned 8 tons of waste into 75 pieces of art, using even the remains of broken tents and beer cans. Thus, they are trying to draw attention to the pollution of the mountain.

10. Everest is not the tallest mountain on Earth

Despite the assigned title, in fact, Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. Mauna Kea, an inactive volcano in Hawaii, rises above sea level "only" by 4205 meters, but its base is hidden under water for another 6,000 meters. When measured from the ocean floor, its height is 10 203 meters, which is almost one and a half kilometers more than Everest.

Everest is also not the most "convex" point on the planet. The extinct volcano Chimborazo in Ecuador reaches an altitude of 6267 meters above sea level, but is located just one degree from the equator. Since our planet is slightly thickened in the center, the sea level in Ecuador is located farther from the center of the Earth than in Nepal, and it turns out that Chimborazo is the highest point of the Earth in terms of stereometry.

As you know, Everest or Chomolungma is the highest mountain on our planet, and every year the number of climbers and tourists who dream of getting to its top only increases.

Theoretically, everyone can try their hand at conquering the highest point, but in practice, many inexperienced tourists are faced with the fact that they cannot overcome the distance to the Everest base camp, which is located at an altitude of 5,200 meters, with an altitude of Everest - 8,845 meters above sea level.

Nowadays, if there is money and there are no acute health problems, then everyone can rise to the top, even without the most basic preparation. The question is, is the game worth the candle? There is already a choice for everyone.

People want to climb the summit of Mount Everest for various reasons, for some, the climbing process itself is important, and for others, putting a tick in the list of things to do in life. In any case, this adventure is neither cheap nor short.

In order to reach the summit of Everest, you need at least $ 15,000 and at least 2 months. Everyone who wants to conquer Everest signs a paper in which he indicates that he does it of his own free will, and no one is responsible for the possible consequences.

Today, you can reach the top of Everest in 3 ways:

Solo or solo ascent;

Climbing on your own as part of a group;

Climbing as part of a commercial expedition.

The cheapest and most comfortable way is to climb Mount Everest as part of a commercial expedition. To do this, first, you need to get to the base camp. Climbing Mount Everest takes place from March to May and from August to October. At this time, the most favorable conditions for the ascent.

In the case of a team ascent, the cost of the ascent reaches $ 55,000, and in the case of a solo ascent of about $ 85,000. Consider how much it costs to climb Everest.

First of all, the flight. First you need to get to Kathmandu. The cost of a one-way flight per person from Kiev will cost $ 724, the cost of a flight from Moscow to Kathmandu will cost $ 573. A visa to Nepal will cost $ 75.

After, from Kathmandu you need to get to Lukla. The cost of the flight starts at $ 250. The next expensive item is accommodation in Kathmandu. Accommodation in a hostel per day, in a separate double room will cost about $ 17, breakfast costs separately - $ 4 per person. On a budget, you can live in Kathmandu for 5 days for $ 150 per person.

As for the cargo, you will have a lot of it, including equipment, food, water, personal items. The cargo can be transported by car directly to the base camp, it will cost from $ 2000. Going to the base camp and carrying the cargo with the help of porters will cost from $ 150 per day, depending on the weight.

Also, porters and guides need tips, on average, for 7 days of going to the base camp, the cost will be from $ 150 to $ 700, depending on how many people you hire.

Upon arrival, you need to register and pay a fee - $ 400. Most of the costs will be spent on equipment and equipment, for a team of 4 people the cost will be about $ 20,000 - 40,000.

Another important point is the group's mobile communication with the camp and along the route as a whole, for this you will need to hire a special person - a liaison, the cost of his services is about $ 3000.

Of course, there is medical care in the base camp, it doesn't matter if you use it or not, you still have to pay a fee of $ 100.

Be sure to pay for the ascent of Everest itself (permit) - $ 10,000 per person.

Due to the fact that more and more tourists climb Everest or try to climb every year, then, accordingly, there is more than enough garbage. In certain circles, Everest began to be called the highest mountain dump in the world.

But, the locals do not want to tolerate such an attitude towards the sacred mountains, and therefore each group is charged a garbage collection fee of $ 12,000.

Here are just the most basic costs that cannot be avoided. And this is just the beginning, for average comfort and safety you will need to spend more money. For example, to lay a route through the icefalls - for a group it will cost $ 2500, in addition, you can lay railings along the route, it will cost $ 100 per person.

You also need to pay extra for a weather forecast - up to $ 3000. Along the route, you need to set up camps for spending the night, at least 5, at least it will cost $ 9000 for three.

Of course, the group needs something to eat and someone has to cook food for everyone, for this they often hire a separate chef and an assistant chef, the cost of their services for 6 weeks is $ 5,000.

There is also a range of services for the ascent, which includes the very minimum, its cost is $ 8000, this is only the ascent, which includes:

Rent of oxygen cylinders;

Rent of oxygen masks;

Oxygen regulator rental;

The work of assistants.

Climbing without oxygen tanks is also possible, but it is quite difficult and not every organism can withstand it. Due to the lack of oxygen, many people experience hallucinations. Climbing Mount Everest is not only a physical test, most likely, first of all, it is a moral test.

Before setting off, ask yourself a few questions: are you ready to live for 2-3 months in tents, practically in Spartan conditions, are you ready to endure the temperature change per day from + 45 degrees to -45 degrees, are you ready for constant movement forward and upward and to many difficulties and unforeseen situations on the way?

In the case of the ascent of assistants, porters (sherpas) to the summit of Everest, they will also have to pay from $ 250 to $ 2000. You should also take care of the additional possible costs:

a) personal expenses - about $ 15,000;

b) tip - about $ 2000;

c) calling rescuers to the slopes - up to $ 7000;

d) communication services - about $ 1000.

Of course, after reading all this and calculating the cost, desire may pass into the background, but, according to those who have already visited the summit of Everest, this is a very small price to pay for what you will feel while being there.

Moreover, this is an extraordinary life experience that cannot be bought for any money in the world. A good incentive can be the fact that during the conquest of Everest, a person's body weight decreases from 10 to 15 kilograms.

Summing up, we can say with confidence that everyone can conquer the highest point of the planet, for this you need desire and money, and both of them should be in large quantities.

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