The biggest nonsense that a tourist who comes to Stockholm can make is not to visit its unique metro. I know it myself! During my first visit to the city, Katya and I walked everywhere, and then we took the car. As a result, they never looked into the subway. Only two weeks later, I accidentally saw somewhere in LJ photos of the grandiose stations of this underground system, which is called the longest art gallery in the world!
Don't repeat my mistake! Get ready to ride the Stockholm subway and just stare.
1
Stockholm's metro system opened in the 1950s. It consists of lines of three colors intersecting in the center of the city. True, each color branches out into several separate routes in the suburbs, so if you need to go outside the center, then follow the final directions. All routes (there are seven of them) are also well thought out - in this regard, the metro is similar to ours in New York, where each color also represents several routes.
The system works from five in the morning until one in the morning. You have to be careful with this in the summer, as the days here are very long. It seems that it just got dark, and the subway has already stopped running.
2 From the outside, the stations do not look very remarkable. The system symbol is the letter "T" in a circle (in Swedish, the metro is called Tunnelbana, or " Railway in the tunnel ".)
3 Today there are 100 stations in the system. Most of them look absolutely normal at the entrance, there is nothing special about them - turnstiles are like everywhere else. About half of the stations are underground (mostly in the center), and the other half are above ground.
4 Going down the escalator, you can see the transition from a regular station to an unusual one. See the tunnel ahead up there turning red and the ceiling uneven?
5 This is the beginning of the cave. They decided to hollow out a certain number of Stockholm stations in stone, but not to revet them in any way, leaving the rough stone walls and vaults, and only painting them.
6 These stops are the most beautiful and unique. Personally, I have never seen anything like it anywhere else.
7 Each of the stations has its own predominant color, and its own coloring system.
8 There are quite motley ones!
9 The easiest way to see such a "cave" is at the central stop, T-Centralen. The main thing is to go down to the lower level, where the blue line trains run.
10 Photographers love to shoot station escalators - their smooth metal harmonizes with the surrounding rough stone in an interesting way.
11 Beauty!
12 Central station again.
13 An entire ancient city was built on Kungsträdgården.
14 Brand new blue cars look great in this station. Yes, and the others are not bad either.
15 But the painted stone was not limited here. Many platforms have various art objects.
16 Antique statues ...
18 Ruins of nonexistent cities ...
19 Various miniatures.
20 There is even a miniature White House!
21 But someone left bronze shoes on the vault of the cave.
22 On T-Centralen, cave paintings depict workers building a subway.
23 Train on the Kungsträdgården platform.
24 There are stations that are simpler, although almost everywhere in the center they are trying to somehow decorate the platforms. That is why Swedes refer to their metro as the longest gallery in the world.
25 Multi-colored mosaics.
26 At the top level of the T-Centralen, things are simpler. That is why on my first visit I never saw any other cave station! (Don't be like Lev!)
27 You will most likely come here from the airport anyway (the local Aeroexpress arrives at the central station). To admire the beauty it is enough to go down to the lower level.
28 But in the Old City, the metro goes along the street, so there is no particular beauty at this stop (this is another reason why I initially did not see anything!)
29 There are quite simple platforms. Hanged with advertisements.
30 But even at such stations some kind of art is posted.
31 And they present strange exhibits.
32 A strangely shaped bench.
33 Ticket machines. It's cheaper than buying them at the box office.
34 And in the supermarket you can buy an unlimited ticket for three days. The Stockholm metro is not cheap, such a ticket costs about $ 30. But if you're going to be rolling around the city a lot, it might make sense. In the end, I never hit on its cost (we walked a lot).
35 Inside, the cars look like this:
36 The locals can be extremely cute.
37 Conductor!
Have you ever been on the Stockholm subway? How do you like it? Outwardly, I liked it more than the Moscow one. (And there is nothing to say about New York - we have it ugly,
1. Paveletskaya (Zamoskvoretskaya line)
Probably all Muscovites are familiar with the metro station "Paveletskaya"... Many people used it, for example, when they went to Domodedovo airport by Aeroexpress or went to the House of Music. And some even paid attention to the strange narrowing of the station closer to the exit, where a very spacious station turns into a narrow corridor between thick walls:
It’s hard to believe that these two photos were taken on the same platform. The answer to this design is simple. That "Paveletskaya" which we know is not at all the one that was built in the forties:
On the old "Paveletskaya" there was no central hall at all. Two long and narrow, pipe-like halls connected only at the exit from the station. Three side arches on each side of the narrow corridor have survived to this day. Once upon a time, trains could only be accessed through them.
Both halls of the "Paveletskaya" were decorated with war-themed bas-reliefs and elegant benches. They have not survived to this day. In the fifties, the station was completely rebuilt. A large central hall with columns was built, which united the entire station together with the former side halls in a single volume. "As a souvenir" from the former station, we were left with only a small section with wide pylons and a narrow corridor near one of the exits.
2. Lubyanka
A similar incident happened with the station "Lubyanka"(then it was called "Dzerzhinskaya"). When the station was opened in 1935, it appeared to passengers in a completely different guise than we know it now:
Its structure also consisted of two separate pipe halls with platforms. The exit from these halls was at the end of the platform, into a small hall directly at the escalator:
In this form, the station managed to "act" in a movie. In film "Friends and Years" 1965 The camera travels the entire length of the station: YouTube link.
At the beginning of the seventies, the central hall was finally completed at the station. This completely changed the face of the station:
From the initial project to the present day, only the facing of several pylons at the end of the station survived, which now differ sharply in appearance from the rest:
3. Clean ponds
The same story happened with the station "Chistye Prudy"(then - "Kirovskaya").
Having gone down the escalator, the passenger had to immediately turn left or right, since there was simply no central hall:
He appeared at the station in the seventies. A passage was made into it in every second niche of the side halls. True, unlike "Lubyanka" and "Paveletskaya", the design of the station remained practically unchanged:
So to the "disappeared" stations "Chistye Prudy" can be counted only with a reservation.
4. Sparrow Hills
Current station "Sparrow Hills" operating since 2002:
Prior to that, for almost 20 years, the train traveled across the bridge over the Moskva River without stopping. And even earlier, a completely different station was located here. It was called "Lenin's mountains" and it looked like this:
This station has now remained only in memories, in photographs and in films. In 1983, due to the dilapidation of the bridge, it was closed.
Interesting that escalator gallery operating near the station "Lenin's mountains", with the opening "Sparrow Hills" for some reason it was not restored:
5. Pervomaskaya
Station "Pervomaskaya", which opened in 1954, was one and a half kilometers from the current "May Day"... At the time of construction, it was final. And immediately behind the station were houses that did not allow the line to be extended further. When it was decided to lead the Arbatsko-Pokrovskaya line further to the east, the station was turned into a depot, and the trains were launched nearby, along the flyover over the former tracks. Trains still run along this overpass, and passengers can see the depot building from the train window:
That "May Day" there was one lobby for the exit of passengers:
This lobby has been preserved; anyone who walks through the courtyards on Pervomayskaya Street can see it:
And inside the depot, some elements of the station design have been preserved:
(photo by Alexander Popov)
In the future, possibly in the place of the former "May Day" a museum will be set up.
6. Kaluga
That "Kaluga", which worked in the Moscow metro from 1964 to 1974, is no longer there either. This station has also been turned into a depot. It was located on the surface, not far from the present "Kaluga":
The station was the final one and was used by many passengers changing buses here and traveling on. In 1974, the line was extended, and "Kaluzhskaya" moved to a new place, where she is to this day.
Unlike "May Day", the passenger platform has been preserved here:
(this and the next photo - Alexandra Popova)
Looking at the depot from above, you can guess where exactly the former station was located:
These are the six "lost" stations. Perhaps someday their ranks will be replenished with the currently living stations. Let's see.
On August 11, 1969, the Kashirskaya station was opened. Initially, only two tracks operated at the station (the second and the third), providing traffic along the Gorkovsko-Zamoskvoretskaya line from the "River Station" to "Kakhovskaya". After the opening in 1984 of the section "Kashirskaya" - "Orekhovo" (later - to "Krasnogvardeyskaya") with a fork, the first track was used. Thus, "Kashirskaya" is the first designed, but the last fully implemented cross-platform transfer in the Moscow metro. precisely the latter, since the Park Pobedy station cannot yet be called a fully completed project.
And on January 3, 1971, one and a half cross-platform interchange stations were opened in the Moscow metro. Why one and a half? On that day, two Kitay-Gorod stations and one Tretyakovskaya station, the southern hall, were opened.
Since then the development of the hub at Kitay-Gorod was expected in the very near future, it was decided to build two stations. But due to the fact that the corresponding radii were not introduced immediately, this station was fully operational only in December 1975.
But the construction of the second "Tretyakovskaya" was supposed to be in the distant future. Therefore, one station and 4 groups of exit cameras were built to switch traffic. The diagram shows how the traffic was organized before the launch of the second Tretyakovskaya.
The development of "Tretyakovskaya" was supposed only in the distant future, and only on January 11, 1986 the northern hall of the station was opened.
1. I devoted most of the shooting to the northern hall. In the south, there is simply nothing to watch.
2. Although earlier I was sure that this particular station had opened earlier.
3. Both stations are pylon, but the northern one is the so-called "new pylon" with a pylon width of two rings.
4. The station complex has two exits to the city (one for each station), but in the evening one slope is turned off.
5. The diameter of the side tunnels is 8.5 m, the central tunnel is 9.5 m.
6. The North Hall was built at a time when the decoration of the metro stations was more influential than the construction of the South Hall. The location of the station in the historical and cultural zone of Moscow, near the Tretyakov Gallery, is reflected in the architectural appearance of the northern hall. The theme of the design is "Great Russian Artists - the Glory of Russian Art".
7. Inclined course of the southern station.
8. Already in the 90s, an additional passage to the Novokuznetskaya station was built from the old (southern) station. It is said that there is such a passage from the northern hall as well. At least there are ladders on the platform. But due to the beginning of the collapse in the economy, there was not enough money to move the step-down substation, which is located at that end of Novokuznetskaya. Unfortunately, it was not possible to check then whether this is so or not.
9. Existing transfer to Novokuznetskaya station.
10. In my opinion, a very successful project of the station for the 80s.
11. Narrow, richly ornamented stucco rolls stretch across the vault from pylon to pylon. The pylons are covered with light marble. The track walls are faced with pink Slyudyanka marble with black labradorite at the base and decorated with bronze paired portraits of Russian sculptors, artists and icon painters
12. Only INFOSOS, alas .. :(
13. Separate respect for the font in the name of the station.
14. And this is a completely miserable transition and a hermetic gate in it.
15. The southern hall is completely uninteresting.
16. Just faceless white marble.
17. Exit to the city.
18. The white arches of the track tunnels of the southern hall rest on massive pylons in the form of expanding upward parallelepipeds, which are faced with light Ural marble "koelga". The luminaires are located at the top of the pylons. The passages between the pylons are vaulted. The track walls are faced with light Koelga marble. The basement of the walls is decorated with pink with green stripes granular calcifer from the Slyudyanka deposit. Technological doors are decorated with decorative lattices with floral ornaments. The floor is paved with gray granite.
19. Transfer to the station "Novokuznetskaya".
20. The last trains are passing ...
21. And already the nighttime arrangement. Let me remind you that at the beginning of the second, the last train with passengers departs from each terminal in the Moscow metro, which passes the entire line. And if on other lines it is possible even at half-past one to go to your home, then with Kalininskaya such a trick will not work.
22. And once again a couple of views of both rooms. It is beautiful.
23. It's not pretty. :) Although tastes are different.
24. Panorama of the northern hall.
. :: clickable ::.
25. And a small panoramic selfie. :)
. :: clickable ::.
In the next post we will go to tunnels and dead ends. Believe me, it's very interesting there! ;)
Many thanks to the press service of the Moscow Metro for organizing the photography.
Until recently, Sparrow Hills was associated with me only with a giant springboard and observation deck... And here are the results archaeological site testify to the existence of Sparrow Hills ancient settlement in the 1st millennium BC. The first known mention is dated 1453, then at the top of the slope there was a "priest's village Vorobyovo".
In the photo: an abandoned escalator gallery on the slope of Vorobyovy Gory
Later in these scenic spots the Andreevsky Monastery, the royal residence, estates of wealthy citizens, the famous Krynkin restaurant, dachas of the Soviet nomenklatura, a metro bridge with a unique station over the Moskva River, were built, ski resort with a cable car. During the revolutionary events of October 1917, Vorobyovy Gory had strategic importance... Red detachments drove the White Guards out of the hill and fired at the Kremlin with heavy artillery.
In 1924, with the light hand of the People's Commissar of Education Lunacharsky (according to another version, at the initiative of diplomat Leonid Krasin), Vorobyovy Gory began to be called Lenin, and officially this name existed from 1935 to 1999.
The easiest way to get here is by metro, the Leninskie Gory station opened on January 12, 1959 as part of the Sportivnaya-Universitet Sokolnicheskaya line. To save money (so as not to lay a deep tunnel under the bed of the Moskva River), a unusual project with the location of the metro station on the lower tier of the bridge over the river. And on the upper tier of the bridge, built in 1958, cars and pedestrians moved. The length of the metro bridge is 1179 meters, and the total length is 2030 meters.
Construction of a metro bridge. 1957-1958: http://oldmos.ru/old/photo/view/40998
Modern view from this point
On the platform. 1959: http://oldmos.ru/old/photo/view/21333
Alas, either the rush during construction, or the extremely economical project caused serious problems in the operation of the facility. Due to insufficient waterproofing, the station was flooded already in the year of opening, and soon part of the cornice collapsed. The bridge structures experienced serious dynamic loads during the acceleration and deceleration of trains; corrosion eaten away the reinforcement. Constructive and technological errors led to the appearance of cracks in the floors and in 1983 the metro bridge was closed for lengthy reconstruction.
In order not to paralyze traffic on the Sokolnicheskaya branch, the builders erected additional supports with bypass routes, trains followed them without stopping at the station. The renovation work dragged on for 19 years and the townspeople already began to doubt that Leninskiye Hills would one day open up again. On December 14, 2002, the practically newly created station was reopened under the current name "Vorobyovy Gory". The main design feature of this project is a competent distribution of loads, the platform remained on the old supports, and the movement of trains is carried out on new beams that stand on their own supports.
2007 year. The temporary supports have not yet been dismantled.
Since 2010, the station has also been an exhibition site. Cups and other sports trophies of Soviet athletes from the collection of the Museum of Sports were exhibited here.
Since April 2014, the personal belongings of passengers and subway employees have been displayed in glass windows. Each exhibit has its own story. For example, Kondraty Selivanovich Ermakov bought a new foreign suit on credit in 1954 and proudly nursed it while on duty in a voluntary people's squad at the Sokolniki metro station, where he met his future wife.
The most unusual use of the subway. On the night of September 22, 2013, at the Vorobyovy Gory station, a completely legal competition for skateboarders took place, the interiors and participants were not damaged.
In 1959, a 90-meter escalator gallery was built on the slope of the Lenin Hills, which connected the embankment with Kosygina Street. The structure with three escalators, although it was serviced by employees of the capital's subway and was initially decorated with a capital M, was free for both metro passengers and all other townspeople who wanted to go up and down the slope.
Lower lobby of the escalator. 1960: http://oldmos.ru/old/photo/view/28787
Escalator stairs. 1969: http://oldmos.ru/old/photo/view/39770
In fact, there were not so many people as in the staged frame from the movie "Sunflowers" (in the frame, somewhere in the crowd of people, Sophia Loren herself descends).
Like the station itself, the escalator pavilion was haunted by an evil fate. At first, the escalators were launched later than planned, but over time it turned out that the location was not chosen well, landslides threaten the safety of the gallery's structures. Servicing of the townspeople stopped shortly after the Leninskie Gory metro station was closed for repairs, the building was declared emergency, the mechanisms were eventually dismantled and now only concrete walls and foundations remain.
The lack of a lift brings a lot of inconvenience to the townspeople who want to get from the embankment to Kosygin Street. People have to wind around the extra hundreds of meters, and only tourists-rock climbers can climb the shortest path to the Palace of Pioneers under the overpass of the metro bridge. Although the Moscow Government periodically plans to restore the escalator (including already in Sobyanin times), the ruin on Vorobyovy Gory continues to remain a ruin.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, the "office" of the Moscow Society of Mountain-Skiing and water sports(M.O.G.-L. and V.S.). The three-story dacha of Grachev, as an example of a rich dacha development, has been preserved at the intersection of the current Kosygin Street and Vernadsky Avenue, but not skiers-athletes are accommodated in it, but the traffic police department of the GUVD.
