TO THE 65TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE GREAT VICTORY

THEY STAND TO DEATH FOR THE PASSES OF THE GREAT CAUCASUS

The German fascist troops, having reached the main passes of the Greater Caucasus in the second half of August 1942, resumed active offensive operations, striving at any cost to seize the oil-bearing regions of Baku and Grozny, and also to reach the Black Sea towards their troops in the Tuapse and Novorossiysk directions. The closest pass to connect with these groups was Marukhsky.

On the way of the elite units of the Edelweiss mountain rifle division, the insurmountable obstacle was not the ridges of the Caucasian mountains, but the staunchness and massive heroism of the soldiers who defended the passes of the Caucasus.

General Rudolf Konrad and his alpine riflemen from the 49th Mountain Corps were confident of their easy victory.

The Marukh pass (height 2739 m) in the western part of the Greater Caucasus was covered by the 808th and 810th regiments of the 294th rifle division. Alpine shooters, formed in the mountain villages of Tyrol from the best climbers and skiers, had special mountain equipment and weapons, warm uniforms, pack transport - mules. They could move quickly in the mountains, climb glaciers and snow passes.

From August 27 to September 1, stubborn battles were fought on the approaches to the Marukh pass. On September 5, the enemy with the forces of the regiment went over to the offensive and, having a great superiority in forces and means, took possession of the pass. But his further advance to Abkhazia and Transcaucasia was stopped by the forces of the 810th regiment, stationed in the 2nd echelon.

Immediately beyond the pass was the front line of the defense. The border of 1.5-2 km passed from the Marukh-Bashi mountain to the north-west and closed the passage to the Marukh gorge. Our mountain rifle detachments dug in, erected dugouts and machine guns in the rocks. Another 3 battalions arrived to help the regiment. Throughout September and October, the troops fought with varying success for the possession of this line.

On October 25, the 810th regiment occupied the height of 1176 and the gates of the Marukh pass, firmly entrenched and defended itself among rocks, snow and ice until the end of 1942.

The flying detachments of climbers rendered great help to our troops. They could be found on mountain paths, on snowy plateaus, on steep passes. They tracked down the enemy, set up ambushes and blockages on roads and trails, made daring raids, and participated in ground and air reconnaissance. They stood against the elite Alpine units of the "Third Reich", which fought in Norway, Greece, Yugoslavia and gained a lot of experience.

Small groups of gamekeepers managed to penetrate through the Caucasian ridge to the area of ​​the Bzyb River. They were seen in the villages of Gvandra and Klidzhe, in the area of ​​Lake Ritsa, 40 km from Sukhum, but they could not go further - they were destroyed.

During the same period, civilians were being evacuated. In August 1942, the climbers received a task from the command - to take people living and working at the Tyrnyauz molybdenum plant located in the Baksan gorge through the passes of the Transcaucasus, and take out valuable equipment and raw materials. The escape route along the road was cut off by the Germans. German planes flew over the Baksan gorge, dropping bombs. Under fire, in difficult meteorological conditions, a chain of Tyrnyauz residents walked to the pass, led by climbers and their assistants - Komsomol members from the combine. With a lack of climbing equipment and special footwear, the climbers led women, the elderly, the disabled, children and transported valuable equipment on donkeys. Bypassing deep cracks covered with snow, organizing rope crossings, falling into snow charges and a thunderstorm, the climbers transferred 1,500 adults and 230 children during August.

Everyone who went from the Baksan gorge to Svaneti through the Becho pass knows that it is accessible only to trained, trained athletes. I was convinced of this, too, having passed the pass with a group of factory tourists in August 1960. There were also newcomers in our group, and if it had not been for the help of climbers who were passing at the same time, we would have had to experience great difficulties.

After the transition of Soviet troops to a general offensive in January 1943, the enemy withdrew to the north. The enemy's attempt to break through the Marukh pass to the rear on the Tuapse and Novorossiysk directions and reach the sea failed.

The history of the war, the highest in the world, is presented in the book by Vladimir Gneushev and Andrey Poputko "The Mystery of the Marukh Glacier", published by the Stavropol Book Publishing House in 1966.

In September 1962, the shepherd of the collective farm Muradin Kochkarov grazed a flock of sheep in the mountains of the Western Caucasus near the Khalega pass. Having missed several sheep, Muradin, leaving the flock to his partner, went in search. He went out to a small lake - there were no sheep there, he went even higher and soon climbed the ridge. Here he saw several combat cells, human bones, casings. Having walked along the ridge to the top of Kara-Kai, I saw traces of fierce battles. On the Marukh glacier, he came across the frozen remains of our soldiers. He reported what he saw to the chairman of the village council in the village of Khasaut.

The Stavropol regional executive committee created a commission of military specialists, doctors, experts and sent it to the Marukh glacier. They were accompanied by a platoon of sappers and a group of climbers led by an experienced instructor Khadzhi Magomedov. Going out along the valley of the Aksaut River to the crest of the ridge, they found and collected the remains of the soldiers, found a field hospital. At the highest point of the 3500 m ridge, on a tour made of stones, there was a note left by tourists who had recently passed. They wrote that they were shocked by what they saw and offered to name this nameless ridge "Defense".

On the descent from the ridge to the glacier moraine, more and more often traces of fierce battles came across. In many places on the glacier - scattered on the surface of the ice, half-frozen remains of our soldiers, weapons, shells. On Defensive Ridge, a team of sappers destroyed mines and shells.

People carried all the remains of the soldiers across the ridge to a clearing and on horses lowered the mournful load into the valley of the Aksaut River, then to the village of Krasny Karachay and from there by car to the village of Zelenchukskaya, the regional center.

Those who were buried in Zelenchukskaya on October 1, 1962, people will remember forever. There have never been so many people in Zelenchukskaya - from the very morning they walked here and drove on anything not only from their neighboring villages and villages, but also from Karachaevsk, Cherkessk, Stavropol. Neither the stadium, where the military guard with the orchestra was lined up, nor the park where the remains were buried, could accommodate all the arrivals, and therefore people stood, damming up the neighboring streets.

In the summer of 1959, the Moscow City Tourist School of Sergei Nikolaevich Boldyrev made the transition across the Western Caucasus. 162 participants were divided into 5 groups, 2 of which, passing north of Kara-Kai, reached the Northern Marukh glacier. We had to spend the night on the moraine of the glacier. In the morning, climbing to the Marukh pass, they began to meet bones, unexploded grenades, fragments of mines and shells, and shell casings. Even in Moscow, preparing for the campaign, they knew about the traces of fierce battles at the Marukh pass, but what they saw cannot be conveyed in words.

In 1960, a group of students from the Civil Engineering Institute. Kuibysheva from Moscow, making a mountain hike, found the remains of soldiers on the glacier. They buried the nameless soldiers as best they could, and the next year they lifted a prefabricated obelisk into the mountains in backpacks and erected it in the glacier area.

Many years later, a massive ascent was made to the Marukh pass. A monument was erected there and a rally was held in memory of our soldiers who stood to death against the elite units of the Edelweiss division.

In 1961, I took a group of tourists from our factory through the Klukhorsky Pass, and we found traces of battles. And even in 1974, when I was here with factory tourists, I found echoes of the battles of 1942.

In 1975, the country was preparing to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Great Victory. For a long time I had been hatching the idea of ​​organizing a hike to the area of ​​the Marukh pass and installing a plaque for its heroic defenders on the rocks of the Oboronny ridge from the tourist club of the plant. Alexander Kozlov, chairman of the plant's tourist club, supported me. So the expedition was organized as part of the mountain and water groups, which were supposed to meet after the hike on May 9 in the village of Zelenchukskaya and take part in a rally and laying a wreath at the monument to the defenders of the Marukh pass. Alexander Sapozhnikov and Viktor Khorunzhiy took up the production of the board, the factory artists prepared two ribbons for the wreath and the board. The trade union committee allocated money for travel and several days of vacation.

Mountain group: Nikolay Lychagin and Mark Shargorodsky - engineers, Tatiana Zueva - technologist, Vladimir Dmitriev - military representative of the plant, Victor Horunzhiy - electrician and I - Marishina Valentina - designer, leader of the campaign.

Water group (3 crews): Valery Gut - normalizer, head of the campaign, Viktor Slabov - technologist, Boris Evtikhov and Alexander Sapozhenkov - engineers, Alexander Ivanov - milling machine operator and Igor Zhashko (not a plant employee), whose father took part in the battles for the Marukh pass.

The watermen drove through Cherkessk to the Upper Arkhyz, from where they began rafting down the Bolshoi Zelenchuk River.

Our mountain group arrived in Karachaevsk, from there by bus and car to Krasny Karachay and along the valley of the Aksaut River moved to the upper reaches. After a two-day hike in the morning, light with ice axes and two backpacks, in which the board and fasteners are packed, we begin the ascent to the Khalega pass. Knee-deep in the snow we make a path. On the way up to the pass, we meet several tours made of stones, installed boards, obelisks. At the foot of these monuments there are traces of battles, remnants of weapons, rusty iron, and shell casings. Leaving the board in a secluded place on the pass, we returned to the tents. The next day, passing through the Khalega pass along the beaten path, picking up the board, we descended into the valley of the Marukha River, filled with snowfields. We stopped for the night in a wooden shelter not far from the glacier. The shelter was packed to overflowing with tourists - the entire geography of the country. In the morning we climbed the Oboronny ridge, found a ledge with a flat platform for the board, where the next day we installed and secured the board, using ropes for belaying and lifting a board with the text: “The heroic defenders of the ice fortress of the Marukh pass, Transcaucasia in August - December 1942. From the youth of the factory and the tourist club of the factory. Moscow city. May 1975 ". Pine branches with a ribbon and lilacs from the village of Krasny Karachay were fixed under the board.

We met the senior pioneer leader of the school, and she offered to make a wreath from the group at their school. We made a gorgeous wreath of spruce branches, added fresh flowers to it, attached a ribbon and on May 9 we carried it out of school. Pioneers and schoolchildren also brought out their wreath. A rally was held at the stadium. I have never seen the Victory Day celebrated in such a way. The stadium was full to overflowing. All with wreaths, flowers, baskets, flags - veterans, youth, pioneers, children, mothers with strollers.

Photo

After the meeting, organized in columns, everyone moved to the park to the monument to the defenders of the Marukh pass, where an eternal flame burns. There are many tourists in the columns who have descended from the mountains. Young children, schoolchildren, are on the guard of honor.

Photo

Wreaths, baskets, flowers were laid at the monument. On the dark stele of the monument there is a light plaque with the image of a machine gun and an ice ax.

We gave to the pioneer leader, who helped us with making a wreath, for the school museum a figurine of a warrior - defender of the Marukh pass, made by our factory craftsman.

On the bank of Zelenchuk, after all the celebrations, the groups gathered at a festive table. Local residents came to us, sat with us around the fire, sang war songs. The people are very friendly, there are many children.

Having passed many passes in the Caucasus, I saw dozens of obelisks, memorial plaques, pyramids with stars, raised on their shoulders by tourists from many cities of our Soviet country. On the Becho pass, the tourists of the Odessa tourist club "Romantic" set up a large silver board on the rock, on which are written the names of 6 climbers who performed the feat, transferring the inhabitants of the Baksan gorge through the pass to Svaneti. On the board is a warrior in a helmet with a star and a little girl who clasped his neck with her little hands.

The geography of the cities whose tourists raised these modest monuments to the mountains on their shoulders is great: Odessa, Donetsk, Moscow, Kharkov, Dnepropetrovsk, Leningrad, Rostov, Krasnodar, Stavropol ... I remember one obelisk with a star and a massive board with the inscription "Defenders of the North Caucasus" , established by the Komsomol of the city of Chapaevsk, Kuibyshev region (now Samara).

The passes of the Caucasus were defended by the warriors of many nationalities of our Great country - the USSR. In addition to the soldiers, the Marukh pass was defended by the sailors of the Black Sea Fleet. The memory of grateful descendants for the great feat of our fathers and grandfathers should be passed on to the generations who follow us.

Valentina Marishina,
Moscow city

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A closed glacier or a trap for the careless

Vasiliev Leonid Borisovich - Kharkov, doctor, MS of the USSR.
Photos of the editor - doctor, MS USSR

Trust in a friend ...

In the mountains, there are situations from which no one is immune. The most experienced fall into avalanches and under ice landslides, the most careful do not avoid crashes. Spontaneous rockfall can be unpredictable. But the cracks on the closed glacier are notscary if you constantly remember about them and adhere to the old rule- in the zone of possible cracks, move only in a bundle and only with certain precautions. The latter is extremely important – in itself binding tothe rope does not guarantee you from trouble.

I AM I heard about professional guides who, having passed a difficult wall in the Alps without insurance, contact before returning over the glacier. If the local mine rescuers the body of a person who is not properly equipped is removed from the crack, without all the devices provided for by the situation, no insurance company will pay his family the money put under the contract.

In fact, you must definitely visit the glacial crack so that there is no desire to fly there someday, but it is best to do this in training sessions on extracting the stuck. I will share another experience ...

Crack

Andrey Rozhkov's team, participating in the Moscow Winter Championship, descended from Ullu-tau. I ran ahead of the rest on our climbing trails on a canopy 20 degree slope. At some point, my leg softly fell into the void, and I slowly settled into the snow to the waist, held on the surface by a voluminous backpack. Legs did not feel support, but I, not yet "cut" into the situation, began to flounder, trying to get out of the hole. The rest is still imprinted in my memory as slow motion filming. The edges of the ice holding me sagged, and I plunged headlong into the snow, hanging on my backpack straps. The next second, the backpack followed me, and I fell into a dark void. Light support on something on the cat - and I was turned upside down. I fell flat, hitting some ledges. These seconds were endless - I remember that I was seized not by fear, but by amazement - how much can you fall? It's time to be in the center Earth! Finally I blurted out my back on the ice plug. Backpack fell through in sequel cracks, trying to drag myself there too. Somehow I propped my elbows against the edges of the crack, stopping the slide down. Freeing one shoulder from the strap, he rolled over onto his stomach. The backpack hung with a second strap at the bend of the elbow. I knelt down, pulled it out black void and looked around. It wasn't all that dark in the crack. Smooth ones went up shiny walls. The snow cover at the top let in daylight. Garlands of icicles peeled off the top edges of my trap. In general, it was beautiful. In tiny the hole, closing the sky, appeared the face of Sasha Sushko. "How are you there?" He asked, lowering the end of the rope. I untied the ice-fi strapped to the backpack, fastened to the rope, and climbed out of the crack myself. A hole in the snow barely allowed a head in a helmet - it is not clear how I slipped into it with a backpack. We measured by the marks on the rope the depth of my pit – 12 meters. All in all, I got off easy – trap for the carefreecan be much more insidious ...

How to behave on a closed glacier without tempting fate? First of all, you must be properly equipped. In the "system", in a helmet, in cats. (Cats it is advisable to wear it even if it is tiresome to walk in them because of the snow slip.But if you find yourself in a crack – and cats can become the main tool in your self-rescue. Without them, you will not be free from possible jamming in a narrowing crack. The helmet will also not be superfluous, given that in the crack the backpack is almost will surely turn you upside down). Zhumar, 2-3 ice screws, the same number of carbines or braces should hang on the belt, in the pocket of the anorak - there is a grasping and at least 3 meter end of the cord.

The best outcome for someone who fell into a crack withsuch equipment - hanging on a rope. Using a zhumar and tying the Bachmann knot,climb yourself even thoughthe case when your partner is not capable of anything. If only he could fix rope! Ideally, the partner, having secured the rope coming to you on an ice ax or "storm", and having secured it by the grasping one, will crawl to the edge, throw off the second end of the rope, after carefully clearing the edge of the crack, placing an ice ax, jacket, or backpack under the rope (all insure!).

If you fall into a crack without a rope, or with a rope in your backpack, things get more complicated. Already upon your "landing" options are possible. At best, the crack is shallow, withflat bottom, or you are as lucky as me, and you will find yourself in a "traffic jam". Much worse if you will be stuck in the narrowing of the walls or you will be thrown into the water. There are holes, right through to the stone bed, piercing the body of a snowfield or glacier. Looking down, you can see the stream rushing under the ice arches. This is the worst option!

Fell through the crack

Not better and jamming, which can lead to serious injury. Also, in a narrow crackyou can be covered with a layer of snow and ice, parts of the snow that have collapsed behind you overlap. Either way, you'll be wet through and through in a couple of minutes. (Disturbing in This situation is one thing - after 15-20 minutes, the failed person stops responding to calls from above ...). Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to descend to the victim who has flown to the bottom as soon as possible, having with you a first-aid kit, warm clothes, a primus stove and the necessary technical equipment. But if you are able to act in this situation, fight for life. Throw off yourself and push the snow deeper into the crack, until it is frozen. Twisting the ice screw as high as possible and threading the rope into its carbine or a cord tied to your belt, tie a loop at the other end and try insert your leg into it. Pulling up on the hook and loading the simplest pulley block with your foot, likefree from jamming as soon as possible. If you succeed, it is a victory. Samein a way, alternately twisting the borax higher and higher, start climbing the wall. To release the re-cord you will have to hang on the lanyard every time. Business will go faster if you have a couple of cords. It's better to get rid of the backpack, leave it by tying it to a hook or to the end of a rope. The hardest part is to climb over the edge cracks if the rope has cut deeply into it. In this case, the front should go zhumar, and the grasping or Bachman's knot is behind it. The double rope and help from above will make the task easier. Remember - there are no hopeless situations for the prepared man!

As a rule, novice climbers consider themselves safe, already just tied to the rope. It is an illusion of belaying if your partner walks right behind you and holds rings in their hands. Snow does not create friction, and it is naive to think that this is how you can hold the dash of a wet rope. It’s also good if your partner doesn’t fly into the crack. following you. Make him walk the full rope. By the way, for a deuce it followsshorten to 12-15 meters, it is even better to go on a double rope. It is advisable to tie onrope in front of you the guide knot and insert the ice ax into it - then, falling during the jerk, it is easier to hold the rope, and, twisting the "drill", click the finished knot into it. Still, more than two people should move in a bundle on a single rope. (Attention! Avoid walking in the middle of the ligament on the "sliding"! To my friend it cost his life,but more on that below ...).

Hermann Huber in his book "Mountaineering Today" (note that this"Today" was 30 years ago) offers a rational way of tying a deuce toglacier: the rope is divided into three parts, and to the middle (it is slightly shorter than the two end ones)partners are attached. The free ends wound on each are designed todumping someone who has fallen into a crack. Each can be tied with a grasping knot on a rope a meter from the chest.

Other guides recommend preparing on foot "Stirrup" from the cord, and with its second end, passed under the chest harness, tie grasping on the main rope at chest level. But even after preparing in this way, falling into the crack is best avoided.

Careful observation of the glacier surface will tell you the nature and direction of the cracks - it is unacceptable for both to be over the crack parallel to the movement of the ligament. Sometimes, especially with oblique morning or evening light, closed cracks guessed by the change in the color of the snow that sagged slightly above them. In suspicious places, probe the path with each step. A ski pole will provide you with an invaluable service without a ring, an ice ax is less effective for this purpose. Remember also that the failure of the first is more dangerous on the descent - in this case, there is a great chance to break into a crack and a partner. Heavier or reckless, coming second on the rise, falling through, too runs the risk of pulling off a partner (see below!). Therefore, on the descent and ascent, one should not shorten the rope to the same extent as on a flat glacier.

But in any case, a person who foresees danger, or at least is ready for it, is capable ofconfront her. Here is an unenviable situation, from which my friend Anatoly Lebedev, now the director of the Ryukzachok company, came out with honor: 1982, two A. Samoded - A. Lebedev worked on an extreme route - a 400-meter flood "icicle" on the wall of Moskovskaya Pravda (Yu -3 Pamir). In the heat, they made an unforgivable mistake - they hung up all the ropes and returned to the tent unbound. Already in front of the tent, Tolya fell into a closed crack - an ice "glass" filled with water. It did not reach the bottom, smooth walls went up 6 meters. In this stalemate Anatoly did not give in to panic - floundering in the icy water and plunging headlong at every attempt to do something, he was able to pull the ice ax from behind his backpack, remove the ice hammer from his belt, and (fortunately, there were cats on his feet!) traps. It is difficult to calculate the speed with which Alik Samoded ran under the wall for the rope, but by the end of the record climbing he managed to throw the end of it to his partner. Of course, this feat would have been easier to avoid. But how unlike its outcome is the endings of the sad stories below ...

1. 08/03/1961. v. Wilpath, 5a.

A group of instructors of the a / l "Torpedo", returning from the ascent, passed the last section of the icefall before the "Volginskaya" overnight stay. When crossing the crack, a snow bridge collapsed under the group leader N. Pesikov, and he fell to a depth 20 m, with extensive injuries. There was no insurance.

2. 27.07.1968... Peak of Communism.

The group organized a bivouac on the Communism peak plateau (6200 m). The tent was set up in a safe place, about 10 meters from a narrow crack. At about 18.30 E. Karchevsky left the tent, where there were other participants. A few minutes later he was called out, but he did not answer. As the footprints in the snow showed Karchevsky fell into a crack. A rope was lowered into a hole in the snow (ondepth 30 m), for which they began to pull from below. But repeated attempts to approach the victim were unsuccessful. The crack in the upper part was 45 cm, and then narrowed to 20 cm. Falling 30 m, Karchevsky's body wedged and frozen in ice.

3. 01.08.1973 . Peak of Communism, Belyaev glacier.

The expedition of the city of Kursk was aimed at climbing the peaks of Communism and Pravda. To observe the groups and maintain radio communication, 4 climbers of the second category were involved under the general supervision of P. Krylov. 08/01/1973 at 6 o'clock two groups of climbers left the camp "4700" up to an altitude of 5000 m, they were accompanied by observers G. Kotov and N. Bobrova. Everyone went up to an altitude of 5000 m without contacting. From here the observers returned to camp "4700", where they received a request to go up again and bring forgotten cats. Kotov and Krylov brought the cats up to 5200 m. On the descent, they walked without contacting. Kotov, who walked first, carried a rope on his backpack. Suddenly he failed. He did not respond to Krylov's cries. Only the next day, the body of G. Kotov was discovered at a depth of 35 m under a 1.5-meter layer of snow and ice debris.

4. 28.07.1974 ... Peak Communism - plateau of Peak Pravda.

Two ligaments of the expedition of the Ukrainian Council of DSO "Spartak" to remove the body of A. Kustovsky from South the walls of the peak of Communism worked on the plateau of the peak of Pravda. The first in the top five was B. Komarov. He walked quickly, not probing the path with an ice pick. The second in the bunch, Morchak, carried rope rings (2-3 meters). The distance between them was about 8 meters. Suddenly Komarov fell into a crack, but was detained by Morchak. Komarov hung at 3-3.5 meters from the surface. The crack was deep, with smooth edges, less thanmeters. When asked if he could help with stretching, he answered in the affirmative. The firstan attempt to pull Komarov ended unsuccessfully - the rope crashed into the firn edge. Komarov began to try to throw his leg over the edge of the crack. Komarov did not react to the demand to stop these attempts and, as a result, turned upside down, after which stopped answering questions. After processing the edge of the crack, Komarov was removed withoutsigns of life. According to the group, it took 8-12 minutes. The resuscitation attempt lasted 2.5-3 hours, but to no avail. The cause of Komarov's death was intracranial hemorrhage as a result of a head injury.

5. 11/04/1975. v. Kazbek.

Alpiniad of the Kharkiv Regional Council of the DSO "Zenith" was held with numerousorganizational violations. On November 3, the participants climbed to the weather station.When returning from the exit, the group walked tied with one rope. Degtyarev went first, closing Demanov, in the middle, Taran and Dorofeeva walked on sliding carbines. After a while, Degtyarev fell into a crack up to his chest, from which he got out on his own. Taran's reaction was slow - he began to insure Degtyarev only after shouting: “What are you standing for? Pull the rope! " Group moved on and in the same place as Degtyarev, Taran falls into the crack.Demanov managed to fix one end of the rope on the ice ax only after 15 minutes.(the snow lay on the ice in a thin layer). The battering ram hung on a rope and a cord ona depth of 3-4 m on a chest harness with the head thrown back. The face was covered with snow. Since the battering ram was hanging on the slide, it was not possible to pull it out by the free end of the rope.succeeded. They could not fix the second end either, so Taran was lowered to the bottom of the crack, and they went for help. However, neither Demanov nor Degtyarev, who was ininsane state could not explain where the victim is. To the crack they came up only at 23 o'clock, but they could not lift Taran (the participant carrying the ice hooks did not come up). I. Taran's body was removed from the crack only on November 5.

6. 10.07 76. peak of the World, For.

A group of dischargers of the 5th stage of the "Bezengi" a / l left at 5 o'clock from the bivouac on the l. Ullhouz on climbing. Moving on a closed glacier, not connected. At 6 o'clock going thirdT. Zaeva, when crossing the bergschrund, fell 15-18 m. Zverev went down to her, put warm clothes under Zayeva and began to wait for help to get her up, but Zayeva died without regaining consciousness.

7. 06.08. 76. v. Zaromag, 2b.

Two branches of badges under the guidance of instructors L. Batygina and Yu.Girshovich made an ascent to V. Zaromag. On the descent, bundles of squads wentalternately. The instructors were not connected. About 13 hours into a closed crackthe participant V. Feldman, who was walking in the first bunch, failed, next to him was G. Khmyrova from the second bunch, who came up to the screams, and then instructor Y. Girshovich, who came up unconnected (he lingered on the ice ledge 4 meters from the surface). Girshovich, by voice, contacted Khmyrova and Feldman, who turned out to beslightly off to the side. Khmyrova's leg was jammed, and she asked for an ice ax. Khmyrova could not use two additional ropes lowered into the crack. Then Girshovich attached himself to them and was lifted up by the participants. Frozen and demoralized, he did not take any further part in the rescue work. Feldman was brought up behind Girshovich, but Khmyrov could not. Lyubkin on the crampons got to Khmyrov, covered with snow 30-40 cm. By freeing her wedged leg, and pushing from below, he helped to lift Khmyrov (at about 14:55). She showed no signs of life. Rubbing and artificial respiration did not help and at 18 o'clock the participants began to transport the body Khmyrova down.

8. 12.08.1976 ... v. Gumachi, 1b.

Four branches of the badges of the a / l "Elbrus" made an ascent to v. Gumachi andstarted descending along the ascent path. Instructor Kalganenko, transferring the leadership of his branch to another instructor, put on skis and began to descend on them in parallel paths of descent of branches. At 11:30, Kalganenko was caught in a transverse crack. The skis got stuck across the crack, the bindings unbuttoned, and Kalganenko fell down 30 m. In 35 minutes. she was taken out of the crack, but without regaining consciousness, L. Kalganenko passed away.

9. 03.07.1982 ... Levinskaya glacier.

A group of dischargers under the guidance of an instructor of the 2nd category E. Tarabrin left the a / l "Alai" for snow and ice classes on the Levinskaya glacier. TOplace the bivouac arrived at 12 o'clock. Before going to class, participant V. Peasantnikov receivedinstructor's order to go to the bivouac of climbers from Ivano-Frankivsk, standing 500 meters away, to receive advice on the route of the training ascent. Then he had to catch up with the group on the trail along the end moraine to the place of training. When the Peasants did not come by 16 o'clock,the group stopped their studies and returned to the bivouac to organize a search. Just on the next day, the body of Krestyannikov was found at a depth of 15-17 m in a closed crack 2 kilometers away from the place of the training.

10. 25.07.1984 ... Caucasus, Kashka-Tash glacier .

The group of gathering of the Odessa OS "Avangard" made the ascent 5b complex. on in. Ullu-Kara and went down the Za to the plateau. Two I. Orobei (MSMK) - V. Rosenberg (1st time) moved ahead. They approached the open crack without contacting. Rosenberg offered to organize a belay, took off the rope and stuck an ice ax into the snow. At this time, Orobei decided to cross the crack using a ski pole, but slipped and fell into the crack. An hour later, the victim was raised. Attempts revive it were ineffectual.

11. 28.07.88 ... p. Free Spain .

Sports group V. Masaltsev and A. Pisarchik (both - CMS) at three o'clock in the morningthe ascent not along the route 5b to the peak of Free Spain (V wall), to which it was released, but along the Za. Motive route changes (rock hazard) untenable - this season the wallpassed repeatedly. About 6 hours Masaltsev passed a snow bridge and came to a snow slope with a steepness of 20-25 degrees. Pisarchik, following him, fell into a crack and pulled Masaltsev into it. Pisarchik jammed at a depth of 25 m, and Masaltsev at a distance of about 7 m in side and a little deeper. At first, the fallen talked, but after 15-20 minutes Masaltsev stopped responding. Clerkwas able to free itself from jamming and,without making an attempt to get to Masaltsev and help, unfastened from the rope, connecting them, took out a second rope and 3 ice screws from the backpack, with the help of whichclimbed out of the crack. At 15:50 the rescue squad reached the victim, notdiscovering signs of life in him. A clerk for breaking the rules - with An unauthorized change of route, for leaving a friend in distress, he was completely deprived of the instructor's title and sports categories.

12. 02.02.1990 .Tien Shan, Marble Wall glacier .

A group of observers of the ascent to V. The marble wall came out onto the glacier. Atmoving on an open (!) glacier in a bundle, walking second S. Pryanikov fellcrack. The crack width did not exceed 1 m, but at a depth of 4-5 m it narrowed to 30 cm and then expanded again. Pryanikov's legs went through a narrow gap, and his body jammed, squeezing the chest tightly. The partner did not feel jerk, because there was a supply of rope. The three of them pulled out Pryanikov without signs life, resuscitation was carried out for two hours, but to no avail.

13. 24.02.1998 .Kavkaz, Kashka-Tash glacier .

Three climbers, having made a winter ascent to V. Free Spain (5b), returned to the tent on the plateau. We walked on our trampled tracks, not related. Oleg Bershov walking ahead, hearing a quiet "hooting" behind him turned around, but did not see his comrades following him. Returning back, I found in snow hole with a diameter of a meter and a half. The ropes remained in the backpacks that followed. Only the next day, rescuers found the bodies of Sergei Ovchinnikov and Sergei Frost in a crack under a meter-long layer of snow ...

I was familiar with the sociable Seryoga Pryanikov, my colleague doctor, I knewKharkiv residents Igor Taran and Sergei Moroz, together with Igor Orobei1st category. It's hard to get rid of the thought that, just remember they are insidious trapped on a closed glacier, things could have turned out differently ... I invite the reader to figure out the mistakes to learn from, and try to find the optimal solution, both in the described real situations and in situational tasks compiled by the author.

1. When moving along the glacier in a bunch of three, the two in front come out onto a closed crack and fall through. The first is wedged in the narrowing of the crackat 10 m, does not answer questions. The second hangs in the middle. The third fell into the snow andholds the rope on the ice ax. What are the options for everyone?

2. When the deuce was moving along a closed glacier, the first one bypassed an open crack,the second moves along it. At this moment, the first one falls into a closed a crack and a jerk of the rope throws the second into the open. Both hang on his rope without reaching the bottom. What are your actions in this situation?

3. In a bunch of three, moving on a rope shortened to 15 m - fortythe middle one, walking on the sliding one, falls into the crack. The companions, torn off by a jerk of the rope, lie in the snow, holding it. What equipment would you like to have in place of each of the three, and what are your actions?

4. Extreme situation: you need to move on a closed glacier in alone. What equipment, what tricks do you use, what to do to prevent falling into a crack?

We have already discussed how great it is to read the description (the publication on route classifications) before setting off on the route. But this, it turns out, is not enough.

These mischievous climbers in their descriptions use such words that you can't figure it out without a dictionary and a bottle of beer ... Well, they joked and they will. But seriously, I recommend everyone who is interested in mountains to familiarize themselves with these definitions. Perhaps you can learn something interesting for yourself.

Vertex- the highest point of a mountain or massif. Usually the goal of an ascent is to reach the summit (and descend from it). They have different names depending on their shape:

Peak- pointed top;

Three peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic (Mongolian People's Republic), 3870 m

Dome- top with round shapes;

Elbrus (5642 m) - summit-"dome"

Table mountain- a top with a horizontal or slightly inclined upper part.

Tirke (1283 m) - mountain table

Route- the way to the top and descent. I want to note that descent in this matter is no less important component.

Tour- an artificial pile of stones for marking the route (can be folded at the top, pass, fork, indicate the place of descent, etc.)

Tour on the pass of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. Very long awaited (pass height 3693m)

In the descriptions, control tours are often indicated, in which, too (as well as at the top), you need to change the note. This additionally confirms the passage of the declared route.

Bivouac- Overnight stay on the route or during the conquest of the summit. On obviously long routes, descriptions may indicate convenient bivouac spots.

Ridge- a part of the mountain range connecting several peaks.

Pass- the lowest point in the ridge.

Elbrus region. Jailik peak (4533 m) shines proudly in the sun

Backstage- a depression in the rock (inner corner), which arose under the influence of flowing and falling water. They can be up to several tens of meters wide and, depending on the season, can be filled with snow, firn and ice. The bottom, usually cut by a gutter, is the most dangerous place in the couloir.

Open book- an acute internal angle that allows lifting with feet and hands on rock surfaces.

Trough- a shallow wide inner corner (the concept of "inner corner" can be found in a geometry textbook, presumably for the sixth grade).

Valley- a wide depression between two ridges. Typically very inhabited area.

Baksan valley

Gorge- a deep, narrow valley with steep, often rocky slopes.

Gorge- a particularly narrow part of the gorge with almost steep slopes.

Hollow- a depression steeply descending in one direction between two lateral ridges (ribs).

Descent along the gorge

Crest- a face formed by two adjacent slopes, reaching the top.

The path along the ridge to the top of Dzhantugan (3991 m)

Snow cornice- snow drift hanging under the influence of winds over one of the slopes of the ridge. It requires a very careful attitude towards itself - the structure is fragile, if possible, you should bypass it along the opposite slope, below the level of the ridge.

Hitsan- a rocky island, separated from the ridge as a result of erosion.

Adyr-Su gorge. View of the Mestia hut

Nunatak- a rocky peak completely surrounded by ice, a mountain ridge or hill protruding above the surface of an ice sheet or mountain glacier.

Saddle(in everyday life "saddle") - a depression between two peaks, from which hollows descend in directions transverse to the ridge in both directions.

View from Babugan Yayla

Slope- the surface of the mountain between adjacent ridges (as an option - the lateral surface of the ridge). By the nature of the soil or cover, the slopes are grassy, ​​stony (talus), rocky, ice and snow.

Debris("Looseness") - a pile of stones or fragments of rocks lying on the surface of the slope. Depending on the size of the stones, talus can be large and small.

Training sessions on a grassy slope

Descent from the glacier along the "loose"

Wall- a slope or part of a slope with a steepness of more than 60 °.

It is worth noting that ascents “on the wall” are usually categorized higher than on the ridge - this can help in finding descriptions of the desired level of difficulty for a particular peak.

Overhang- a section of a wall with a negative slope

Cornice- overhang at an angle of 90 ° to the slope.

Ceiling- extensive horizontal overhang of rock.

When serious "overhangs", "cornices" or "ceilings" appear in the description, it will not be superfluous to have ladders and hooks with a hammer (AID category may not be listed) - if you are not completely sure that you will free climb.

North-eastern Mongolia near

Terrace- a horizontal section of the slope forming a long step.

In everyday life, small "terraces" are often called " shelves". Usually it is convenient to equip them with belay stations.

Plate- a smooth and flat rock section with a steepness of up to 60 °.

Buttress- an outer corner adjacent to a wall or slope.

Edge- buttress adjacent to the ridge.

Gendarme- elevation on the ridge. Studying the description, it is worth paying attention to which side this or that "gendarme" is bypassed.

Famous gendarme "Devil's finger" on Mount Sokol in Crimea

Crack- a gap in the rock, which is so wide that fingers of a hand can be placed in it or a hook can be hammered.

Cleft- the gap in the rock is so wide that an arm or a leg can fit in it.

Cleft on the rocks of Dovbush

Fireplace- a vertical gap in the rock, so large that a person can fit in it.

The technique of overcoming "fireplaces" differs from the usual climbing on a stand or natural relief (there are no hooks and you need to go into the space), so it should be practiced separately.

An oversized cleft is too narrow to fit in with the body and too wide to wedge an arm or foot. Usually difficult to climb.

Chimney- a rock formation resembling a pipe. On the Forossko-Mellskaya wall in Crimea there is a route of the same name 2B class. on the "Tower" array. The chimney section does not present any particular technical difficulty, but it leaves an unforgettable impression.

"Chimney" on the route of the same name

Lamb foreheads- rocky outcrops on a talus or snow-ice slope. They represent a convex section of rock, smoothed by streams of water, stones or a glacier.

They usually try to get around these outcrops - smooth stones do not encourage free climbing. Especially in mountain boots.

Typical Caucasian landscape

Glacier- ice masses sliding in the form of icy rivers from firn fields down into the valleys.

Kashkatash glacier in the Adyl-Su gorge

Glacier tongue- its lower end part.

Moraine- the accumulation of rock debris (at the bottom, along the edges, in the middle or at the end of the glacier), formed as a result of the destruction of the neighboring slopes by the glacier or its bed. Accordingly, lateral, median and terminal moraines are distinguished.

View from the parking lot "Green Hotel"

Icefall(not to be confused with an ice collapse) - a disorderly pile-up of ice blocks, as well as a system of cracks and faults in places where the glacier bed folds.

Serac- separately protruding ice block of the icefall; poses a potential hazard as it can break off.

Icefall in the upper part of the Kashkatash glacier

Rankloft- a foothill crack, formed at the place where the glacier adjoins the rocky slope (the reason is the melting of ice from the rocks heated by the sun).

Bergschrund- a transverse crack in the tongue of the glacier, formed due to the movement of the ice mass down the slope.

The bunch overcomes the bergschrund

The main difference between these two words of German origin is that rancluft denotes a crack between ice and rocks, and bergschrund (in everyday life - “ berg") - in the glacier itself. In addition, there may be a bunch of other cracks on the glacier, which are not specifically named.

Of course, the list is far from complete, the descriptions can be expanded and deepened. Therefore, I recommend going to the mountains for details - everything is much more interesting there!

When compiling the dictionary, personal mountain experience was used, notes by Alexander Guzhviy, the dictionary of Garth Hatting ("Mountaineering. Climbing technique." - Moscow, 2006) and the vastness of the Internet (special thanks to the tourist club "ZEST" for a good selection). Photos: Olga and Denis Volokhovsky, Vitaly Nesterchuk, Irina Churachenko, Yaroslav Ivanov and others.

To be continued…

Movement technique in the mountains, on certain sections of the path depends on the nature and characteristics of the mountainous relief.

Wooded and herbaceous slopes are crossed by shepherd and animal paths usually going along warm southern and western slopes, places with sparse vegetation and a thick layer of soil. They move along paths or flat surfaces at an even pace, slowed down at the beginning and end of each transition. The soles of the feet are almost parallel, the foot is placed on the heel with "rolling" to the toe at the beginning of the next step. The center of gravity of the body with a backpack should shift vertically as little as possible - small hills and holes should be bypassed, stones and tree trunks should be stepped over. Alpenstock or ice ax is carried in hand in the stowed position; in areas where a loss of balance is possible - in two hands in the lanyard position or as additional support.

When driving on grassy slopes, you should use protruding, firmly lying stones, bumps and other uneven terrain for support, on steep slopes avoid areas of dense grass and small bushes, beware of rock falls over located rocky areas. For steep slopes, shoes with corrugated soles "vibram" are required, in the case of slippery, for example, wet or heavily snow-covered surfaces, as a rule, "crampons" and rope belay are used. To climb, tourists either move in steep short zigzags, or make long, gentle traverses bypassing rocky sections. When lifting "in the forehead", the legs are placed with the entire sole, the feet (depending on the steepness) - parallel, with a half-tree or a herringbone; when lifting obliquely or in a serpentine - on the entire foot with a half-tree (the upper leg - horizontally, loading more the outer welt of the shoe, the lower one - slightly turning the toe down the slope, with a greater load on the inner welt). When descending straight down a not very steep slope, the feet are placed parallel to the entire sole or with the predominant load on the heel, move with their backs to the slope with quick, short springy steps, slightly bending the knees (but not running). Down a steep slope they go down sideways, obliquely or in a serpentine, their legs are placed with a half-tree, as in the ascent. An ice ax or alpenstock on steep slopes is held with both hands in the position of readiness for self-retention during the ascent and descent; in case of a breakdown, if necessary, it is used as a second fulcrum. In dangerous places, rope belay is organized through tree trunks, rock ledges, as well as over the shoulder or lower back.

The talus slopes are passed in a group with minimum intervals between the participants. When driving along them, one must remember that steep talus areas are especially dangerous due to rockfalls. Along small talus, they rise "head-on" or serpentine, the feet are placed parallel, compacting the step by gradual pressing until the talus stops sliding. You should lean on the entire foot, keep the body upright (as far as the backpack allows). An ice ax (alpenstock) is used if necessary, leaning on it from the front to the side. They descend in small steps, placing their feet in parallel with the emphasis on the heel, if possible, sliding down with a mass of small stones and not letting their feet bind deeper than the top of the boot; the ice ax is ready for self-retention. They move along cemented or frozen talus in the same way as along grassy slopes.

It is recommended to move obliquely or on a steep serpentine along the middle scree, and at the turning points the guide should gather the whole group so that tourists, for safety reasons, are not above each other. Unstable, steep, so-called live taluses are especially dangerous. Sharp movements should be avoided; legs should be placed on the entire foot carefully, gently, choosing parts of the stones facing the slope for support. The ice ax is held in hand, not leaning against the slope.

On coarse debris they can easily move in any direction. The movement is carried out, stepping from one stone to another, changing the pace in order to maximize the inertia of the body with a backpack and avoiding large jumps. When descending and ascending, you must put your feet on the edges of the stones, closer to the slope. Stones and slabs with a significant slope should not be used.

Tourists pass rocky slopes, edges, couloirs and ridges with a preliminary assessment of the difficulty and safety of individual sections. The main indicators of the difficult passability of the rocky relief are its average steepness and its constancy throughout the entire length of the site. When assessing the steepness, it is taken into account that from below from under the slope it seems shorter and flatter, especially its upper part. The view from above and "in the forehead" seems to increase the steepness, and the presence of steep drops conceals the distance (the height and steepness of the slope helps to determine the dropping of small stones). The correct idea of ​​the steepness of a slope or edge is given by observing it from the side (in profile) or directly accessing it. The safest for movement are the ribs and buttresses; the most simple, but dangerous with possible rockfalls are couloirs. It is allowed to use the lower part of the wide couloirs to bypass the steepest lower part of the ribs and buttresses, the upper part of the couloirs when entering the ridge ridge in dry weather in the early morning hours. It is unacceptable to move along the sidelines during snowfall, rain or immediately after precipitation. Climbing the ridges is safe at any time of the day, except in cases of bad weather and strong winds. The "gendarmes" meeting on the ridges go around the slopes or climb over them.

The basis of climbing rocks is choosing the right route, using or creating supports and the correct position of the center of gravity in relation to the support. Distinguish free climbing using natural points of support, ledges, cracks and the so-called artificial climbing, when the points of support are created using rock and bolt hooks, pins, ropes, loops, ladders. Free climbing can be external - along the wall and internal - in crevices and fireplaces. According to the difficulty of movement, rocks (rock routes) in tourism are divided into 3 groups:

1. Lungs, overcome without the help of hands (hands occasionally lean with hands, maintaining balance).
2. Medium, requiring a limited arsenal of climbing techniques and periodic belaying.
3. Difficult ones, which may require any methods of free and artificial climbing, you need continuous belay of the walking and self-belay of the belayer.

Hands and feet can be used for gripping, resting, and stretching. When gripping hands, Ch. arr. to maintain balance by loading the supports from above, from the side and from below. The main weight is on the legs. For stops, uneven rocks are used that are located below shoulder level and are unsuitable for gripping. The force is directed mainly from top to bottom and is transmitted through the palm or part of it and the soles of the feet. Spacers are used where there are no protrusions for grips and stops on the rock surface, and the location of the rocks allows this technique to be used.

On rocky routes, the following basic rules are followed:

• before starting the movement, determine the route, resting places, insurance and difficult sections;
• the climb is performed, if possible, along the shortest direction - the vertical, choosing the simplest path.

Displacement to the side (transition from one vertical to another), if necessary, is performed on the most gentle and lightest part of the slope. Before loading a rock support, check its reliability (inspection, hand pressing, blow of a rock hammer), after which they tend to use it first as a grip or palm rest, and then as a leg support. For a stable body position, three points of support are maintained, either two legs and an arm, or two arms and a leg. The main load, as a rule, is carried by the legs, the arms maintain balance. In order to save forces, friction is used as much as possible (stops and spacing). They move along the rocks and load the supports smoothly. In areas where there are good supports for the hands and poor for the legs, the body is kept further from the rock, if there are good supports for the legs, closer to the rock. Before a difficult area, you should rest, determine the points of support and grips in advance and overcome it without delay so that your hands do not get tired. If it is impossible to continue moving, you need to go down to a convenient place and look for a new way to climb. Hands get tired less if the holds are not higher than the head; when pulling up, they help by extending the legs. For greater stability, the arms and legs are kept slightly apart, they try not to lean on their knees. The design of modern hiking shoes allows the use of the slightest unevenness of the relief to create support. To increase the adhesion of the boot to the rock, the pressure of the foot must be perpendicular to the support surface. For small ledge surfaces, the foot is placed on the inner welt of the boot or on the toe.

Climbing rocks requires utmost attention, caution, confidence. In case of a breakdown, you should keep your hands in front of you so as not to hit the rock and, if possible, catch on to it. Descent on simple rocks is performed with the face from the slope, leaning on the palms of the hands, bending the knees and body, but not sitting down. On rocks of medium difficulty, they descend sideways or face the slope, the arms maintain balance, the body is almost vertical. On difficult rocks in short sections, they descend facing the slope, but more often they use a rope descent: sports, by the Dyulfer method or with the help of braking devices. Before organizing the descent, make sure that the rope reaches the site, from where you can continue to move or organize the next stage of the descent. The main rope for the descent is fixed on the rock ledge directly or with the help of a rope loop, as well as on rocky hooks with a carabiner or a loop made of a rope. The strength of the protrusion is carefully checked, sharp edges that can damage the rope at kinks are blunt with a hammer. Old hooks and loops must be tested for strength, at the slightest doubt they are replaced with new ones. The cord loop should be double or triple. All members of the group, except for the last one, descend with the top belay with the second rope. The last participant descends on a double rope with a self-belay. Before the last participant descends from below, they check how the rope slides; when it gets jammed, its fastening is corrected. The second rope, also used for pulling, is passed through the last descending carabiner. The descent along the rope is carried out calmly, evenly, as if walking along the rocks, avoiding jerks. The body is held vertically, slightly turned sideways to the slope, legs slightly bent and placing them wide on the rock.

Snow and firn fields and slopes, as well as closed glaciers, overcome, if possible, during the cold time of the day. Special attention is paid to the possible avalanche danger, taking into account the steepness of the slope, the time of the last snowfall, the orientation of the slope, the time and duration of its illumination by the sun, and the state of the snow. When moving on snow and firn, they follow the principle of maintaining "two points of support" (leg - leg, leg - ice ax or alpenstock). The main efforts are spent on trampling tracks and knocking out steps.

For safety reasons, tourists adhere to the following basic rules:

• on a soft snowy slope, the foot support is pressed gradually, using the property of snow to freeze when compressed, avoiding a strong kick in the snow;
• with a fragile crust, it is punched with a foot and the support under it is pressed;
• on a steep crust slope, the sole of the boot rests on the edge of the step punched in the crust, and the lower leg - on the crust;
• the body is held vertically, the steps (supports) are loaded smoothly at the same time with the entire sole;
• the leader's stride length corresponds to the stride length of the smallest member of the group;
• all members of the group follow the trail, without violating, and, if necessary, correcting the steps; with a strong crust and dense firn, the steps are stuffed with a boot welt, cut down with an ice pick, or use "crampons";
• in the event of a breakdown, warning the ligament partner by shouting "hold", the breaker must immediately start self-retention, and the belayer must stop sliding at the very initial stage.

On a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35 °, they go straight up. With a sufficient depth of soft loose snow, the feet are placed parallel, tamping the snow with them until a snow cushion is formed. With a small layer of soft snow on a firn or ice base, with a light blow, the foot is immersed in the snow until it stops with the toe on the hard base. Then, without lifting the toe off the base, the step is pressed with vertical pressure. If the steps slide out under load, double pressing of steps is used: first, with a kick of the foot perpendicularly to the slope, the first portion of snow is pressed, forming the base for the future step, freezing to the underlying firn or ice, and then, using snow from the sides of the pit, a step is formed on the resulting base. On a very thin layer of soft snow, lying on ice and dense firn, you should use "crampons". With an increase in the steepness of the slope and the hardness of the snow, they switch to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the "water flow line", knocking out the steps with the welt of the boot with oblique sliding blows, with the obligatory observance of the "two points of support" rule. On slopes with firn soggy to a considerable depth or covered with dry snow, as well as on slopes with a steepness of 45 ° or more, an ascent straight up in three steps is used. With a traverse in a three-beat way, they step over with an attached step. Fresh soft snow, softened by the sun, sticks in a lump on the soles of the boots. He must be immediately knocked down by hitting the welt with an ice ax almost at every step.

Deep frost and frosty sandy recrystallized snow sometimes formed under the infusion do not lend themselves to pressing. In the first case, only a layer of crust is used for lifting, in the second, they punch a trench to a solid base, organizing a belay at its bottom through an ice hook or ice ax and knocking out the steps.

On a snow slope of low and medium steepness, they descend with their backs to the slope, straight down or slightly obliquely. In loose and soggy snow, they walk almost without bending their knees at a narrow pace. On the descent on harder snow, the footprints are pierced with a blow of the heel (to maintain balance, you should lean on the bayonet of the ice ax). If the snow slope is avalanche-safe, then you can go down in a line - each participant makes his own tracks; otherwise, you need to follow the trail. On a crust, firn or icy snow slope of great steepness, they descend, as a rule, facing the slope for three steps, using and maintaining the steps laid by the leader, or along the railing fixed on ice axes, an avalanche shovel, an ice hook or a snow anchor. On non-steep snow slopes, viewed to the bottom, sliding descent (planing) is allowed - on your feet, sitting, on your back or on your legs and a backpack. The slope must end with a safe slope, free of open ice areas, rocky outcrops, large stones and pieces of ice; snow - free from medium and small stones. Planing while sitting and on the back is used to overcome narrow cracks and bergschrunds with an overhanging top edge with mandatory belaying with a rope. The descent must retain the ability to extinguish speed and stop at any moment.

Self-belay on snow and firn slopes is similar to self-belay on grassy slopes. When driving for three cycles, self-belay is carried out by an ice ax driven into the snow. Self-retention on loose and softened snow is carried out by thrusting an ice ax into the slope above the head with a bayonet and cutting through the snow with a shaft, when falling off on dense snow, firn, crust or on a thin layer of snow covering the ice, with the beak of an ice ax.

Along the snow ridges and along them they move with simultaneous or alternate belay. Exit to the ridge from the sub-cornice side is extremely dangerous, it can be carried out in the exception of cases with the utmost care with ascent along the "line of water fall" in the cold time of the day and cutting a cross-hole through the cornice, with a partner's belay from a sufficiently distant point. The traverse under the eaves is not allowed. Descent from the cornice is carried out with undercutting or cutting with a rope an extended section of the cornice with careful insurance.

The technique of moving on ice is mainly determined by the steepness of the ice slope, the state of its surface, as well as the type and properties of ice. When walking on ice, they usually use "cats", less often triconi. On steeper slopes, if necessary, artificial support points are used, and in particular: cutting steps and hand grips, driving in or screwing in ice hooks. Movement in “rejected” boots or “vibram” boots is possible on relatively gentle ice slopes, while the technique of movement is the same as when walking on grassy slopes. Moving on "cats", the legs are set slightly wider than during normal walking. The "cat" is placed on the ice with a light blow at the same time with all teeth, except for the front ones. The body should be vertical, its weight should be distributed evenly, if possible, on all the teeth of the "cat". At the next step, all the teeth of the "cat" should be lifted from the ice at the same time. The ice ax is held in the lanyard position in both hands - with the bayonet to the slope and the beak of the head down.

On gentle ice slopes (steepness up to 25-30 °) they rise straight "head-on". Legs are placed in a Christmas tree, turning the toes of the feet depending on the steepness of the slope. The ice ax is used as an additional fulcrum.

On steeper slopes (up to 40 °), they switch to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the "water fall line". The soles of the feet are semi-herringbone: the one closest to the slope is horizontal, the far one is turned toe down, along the slope. When driving on slopes with a steepness of more than 40 ° without a backpack or with a light backpack, you can climb "head-on" on the four front (toe) teeth of the "crampons", simultaneously driven into the ice with weak fixed blows. The feet are parallel, the heels are lowered, the body is upright. The ice ax is held in a self-holding position in both hands in front of oneself, leaning on the slope with its beak directed perpendicular to the slope, the shaft is lowered with a bayonet. Movement in three steps, observing "two points of support" (the beak of an ice ax - a leg or two legs). Descent on gentle slopes is carried out straight down with a "goose step", driving all the teeth of the "crampons" into the ice at the same time. When the slope is steeper, they go down the rope. When driving with a load on steep sections, they resort to cutting down steps, while rising in a serpentine. The step should be spacious enough, without ice hanging over it, with a horizontal or slightly inclined surface. On a slope with a steepness of less than 50 °, steps are cut in the so-called open rack with two hands, with a greater steepness - in a closed rack with one hand. To descend, cut down double steps and move with an additional step, leaning with the bayonet of the ice ax in the lanyard position. The steps are located one under the other at approximately an angle of 15 ° to the "line of water fall". When moving along an ice ridge, steps, as a rule, are cut on its flatter side, or the ridge is also partially used.

Safety on the ice slope is ensured by self-belaying with an ice ax, hook belay, self-belaying belayer or with the help of fixed rope rails. The hooks are driven or screwed into pre-cut steps. The railing rope for ascent and descent is fixed on double hooks, an ice column (usually 50-60 cm in diameter) or an eyelet drilled with an ice screw.

Glaciers pass, as far as possible, along ice-free bands of ice, longitudinal ridges of surface moraines, along randclefts or troughs between coastal moraines and the slopes of the valley, along (or along) the ridges of coastal moraines. Access to the glacier is possible from the lower part of the valley through the end of its tongue or along the terminal moraine, bypassing the end of the tongue along the ridges of coastal moraines or randklyuft, with an ascent to the valley slopes and traverse them to a part of the glacier convenient for movement. Overcoming icefalls is carried out along a pre-planned route with a preview or reconnaissance of the entire forthcoming path: bypassing along the slopes of the valley, coastal moraines or randklyuft, directly along the ice along the coast or in the middle (with a trough-shaped surface or thick snow cover). The possibility of a through passage may be evidenced by the median surface moraine stretching from the upper reaches to the bottom of the icefall. Of the two parallel branches of the glacier, the less difficult is the longer one. Icefalls of southern and southwestern exposure with the same steepness of fall or difference in heights are easier to pass than those with northern or northeastern ones. Cracks are overcome by bypassing (tacking), jumping, including without backpacks, with the subsequent transfer of their hands, or using descent to the bottom and ascent to the opposite side, and sometimes with the guidance of an air crossing, similar to crossing rivers. Bergschrunds are crossed over snow bridges. If they are absent on the rise, the upper edge (wall) is overcome with the help of ice axes stuck into it or a "slanting hole" is made - a hole. Descent - by jumping or on a rope ("sitting" or "in a sports way"). On closed glaciers, which are especially dangerous, you should move in teams of 2-4 people. with an interval between the participants of at least 10-12 m, bypassing the zones of cracks arising on the convex parts of the glacier and the outer. the edges of its turns. When crossing unreliable snow bridges over cracks, alternate belay or belay with handrails is required.

What do we know about glacial cracks? Just what glacial(ice)crack- This is a break in the glacier, formed as a result of its movement. Cracks most often have vertical walls. The depth and length of the cracks depends on the physical parameters of the glacier itself. There are cracks up to 70 m deep and tens of meters long. Cracks are: closed and open type... Open cracks are clearly visible on the surface of the glacier and therefore pose less danger to movement on the glacier. Theory is good, but without a visual image, a theory remains just a text.

Depending on the season, weather, and other factors, cracks in the glacier can be blocked by snow. In this case, the cracks are not visible and when moving along the glacier there is a danger of falling into the crack along with the snow bridge covering the crack. To ensure safety when moving on a glacier, especially a closed one, it is necessary to move in bundles.

There is a special type of cracks - bergschrund typical for kars (circus, or a natural bowl-shaped depression in the pre-summit part of the slopes) feeding valley glaciers from the firn basin. Bergschrund is a large crack that occurs when the glacier leaves the firn basin.

Details about the types of glacial cracks and their structure can be found in the article.

Now let's move on to directly viewing illustrative examples of cracks of various types and sizes:

Glacial crack on a "dirty" glacier

Dangerous ice cracks on the "closed" glacier

Rankloft is a crack, a gully between a glacier and rocks. Usually, rancluft is formed at the lateral boundaries of the glacier-rocks contact. Reaches from 1m wide and up to 8 meters deep