When to open roses after winter, every florist should know - only in this case, you can count on the abundant and lush flowering of the bushes, however, it is important to know how to open the roses correctly in spring, at what temperature it is optimal to do this, the differences in the procedure in different regions - in Siberia and in the Urals, in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region ...

When to open roses after winter - enemies of the flower in spring

Not knowing when to open roses after winter often leads to the death of even properly prepared plants for wintering. Those who have been breeding these plants for a long time know for sure that damping off and return spring frosts for a rose are much more dangerous than winter cold, so you need to treat the procedure for smoothly introducing the queen of flowers into the new flowering season with special diligence.

If you open roses after winter, when the soil has not warmed up deeply enough, and the weather still presents surprises in the form of snow and night frosts, with a probability of 99.9% they will freeze and will not be able to please the impatient owner with lush flowering. This happens because the buds of the plant wake up a little earlier than the roots - when they start growing, they will die at the first temperature drop to –7 ° С… –10 ° С.

No less destructive effect on rose bushes is a long wait for steady heat - the roots are still dormant, and the aerial part of the flower actively evaporates moisture, and water droplets, being in a confined space, cause excessive dampness of the rose shoots. Due to the lack of air and ultraviolet radiation, pathogenic fungi, including mold, begin to actively multiply under the shelter.

Experienced flower growers advise starting the awakening of the queen of the flower garden when the snow begins to actively melt even in the shade, but it is advisable to do this in stages, taking into account the local climate - it is important to remember that there is no single date when to open roses after winter.

How to open roses correctly so as not to ruin

It is recommended to start preparing roses for removing the shelter at the beginning of March, when the sun is just beginning to warm up - at this time there is a possibility of exposing the shelters. Boxes, like multilayer blankets made of non-woven materials, spruce branches and sawdust, begin to show the world their sides seized by frost, and in order to prevent the air from warming up inside flower hibernations, you need:

• Throw more snow on the shelters from above - if the snow is slipping too actively, you will have to pour a thick layer of sawdust on top or install shading screens made of plywood or cardboard;
• Trample the snow around the shelters - the denser it is, the longer it will melt. In this way, one more trouble can be avoided - the invasion of the rose garden of mice;
• Take care of the drainage of melt water from the area where the roses grow - for this, you can sprinkle the gaps between the bushes with ash so that the snow melts there earlier, then make deep grooves into which the melt water will drain.

airing roses after winter - pictured

The listed activities should be supported at least until the end of March, when most gardeners with experience advise to open roses after winter - during this period, the remnants of snow must be completely removed even from covered rose bushes. If the weather is clear during the day, and the temperature rises above 0 ° C, you can carefully start airing the winter home of the rose - for this, the shelter is printed from the ends and left for a couple of hours, then the ends are closed, leaving small holes through which the overwintered bushes will be ventilated.

Low-growing standard roses, climbing and ground cover varieties, highly huddled with soil, peat and spruce branches, also need ventilation - in the warmest time of the day, you need to open them and carefully loosen the soil that has compacted during the winter, then the shelter should be returned to its place. Small vents should be left at the ends, moisture will evaporate through them.

Adaptation of overwintered rose bushes

Immediately after the winter dormancy, the gas exchange and the exchange of liquid with the environment are not well established in rose bushes, therefore, the bushes need competent adaptation - without it, there is a possibility of drying out of individual shoots or death of the buds. Roses can be damaged by direct sunlight and wind - they dry out the ground part of the plant, and initially healthy shoots can later dry out.

To prevent fresh air and life-giving light from turning into a disaster for the rosary, you need:

• Take off the shelter gradually over a period of at least 3 days, each time opening it more than yesterday;
• Shade flower plantings with spruce branches - it will be enough to put conifers directly on top of the bushes, or stick them on the south side;
• Move the soil away from the stems with which they are spud so that the bush does not begin to rot.

Particular attention should be paid to sanitary pruning - at this stage you need to remove all rotten and dry stems. Leaving them in the hope that they will recover does not make sense - they represent a gateway for infections of roses and other garden perennials.

Protecting roses from diseases, pests and negative environmental conditions

In order to finally protect rose bushes from possible diseases, it is recommended to process them a maximum of a week after the optimal time when to open roses after winter - this will avoid the spread of fungal and other infections. It is recommended to use a 1% solution of copper sulfate or bright pink potassium permanganate.

Please note that you need to process the entire bush, including the grafting site, and if soil particles remain on the stems, they need to be removed with a cloth or an elastic brush, and then spray the bushes.
A day after treatment, it is recommended to inspect the bush for mold, frost cracks and infectious burns. The easiest way to get rid of mold - it is destroyed by stripping and spraying the bush with a copper-soap solution.

Frostbites and infectious burns require radical measures - if they are located at the base of the bush, the shoot will have to be cut out completely, but if they are located closer to the crown of the shoot and are small in size, you can try to cure it. To do this, the damaged tissue is cut off with a sterile knife (with a scalpel if the stem diameter is small), the surface of the wood is treated with gruel of garlic or plantain, and an insulating bandage consisting of a film and electrical tape is applied on top.

Now that the roses have finally woken up and put in order, you can start awakening the suction roots - the bushes are watered with warm water without fertilizers and dressings. After a few days, the procedure is repeated, but a half dose of nitrogen fertilizers is added to the water.