Freeride is one of the most interesting and dangerous types of skiing. It involves skiing on loose and deep snow outside of prepared ski slopes. The athlete requires good physical preparation, experience and decent equipment.
In the last article we already described the features, and now we will focus on skis of a more extreme type (freeride).
This is what it looks like live:
The main question is: what do you want from riding?
The main difference between freeride skis and all others is the width and total surface area.
Compared to other models, they are extremely wide and have huge noses that have a kind of bend (rocker). Thanks to this design, skiers do not sink in deep snow and at high speeds feel like surfers on a sea wave.
In addition to design differences, freeride skis have age and gender differences. They all differ in softness, sensitivity to snow cover, and geometry.
Let's get straight to the selection. First of all, you must understand where and how you will ride. And to do this, answer the following questions:
Do I want to ride fast or slow, but with maximum maneuvers?
Do I want to ride steep slopes or moderate slopes?
Always in deep or light snow, or in broken snow?
The athlete's weight is the most important characteristic of freeride skis
For virgin snow, the weight of the skier is important. The greater the weight and the softer the surface (snow), the greater the total surface area of the skis should be.
The exact numbers are determined with experience and individually, but some patterns can be derived.
Beginners should remember a simple formula: take your height and add 10 centimeters. With this approach, skis will be as predictable as possible at speed, maneuverable and controllable. Professionals with length “play” and often add only 5 centimeters to their height - this gives them the opportunity to control all movements and do tricks.
Width and surface area
The faster you want to go down the mountain, the smaller the ski surface area should be. In freeride the following proportion works:
- For slower skiing you need wider skis.
- For fast driving, they are correspondingly narrower.
The spread in width figures is quite large, the width varies from 80 to 140 millimeters.
If you are going to virgin lands where there is half a meter of snow, then take the widest models, but if you are going to compact slopes and want adrenaline from speed, then limit yourself to the universal width (on average - 100 mm).
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We would like to remind you that in winter, almost all air carriers allow. But it is better to check the acceptable standards for weight and size in advance.
Directional and omnidirectional skis
There is another important characteristic responsible for the direction of the design.
For “directional” ones, the design is directed clearly forward. They work mostly on longitudinal sliding. What is called carving or cutting on a slope.
Gives good stability at speed. They require speed because they float up on their own. Directional freeride skis are narrower, therefore they work along the straight line and their entire length. They tend to take long turns and need a lot of space.
Omnidirectional skis
The skis are wide enough. The ratio of length and width differs from directional ones.
Once we have decided on the type of design, we begin to select skis based on surface area, length and width. Using the rule that we wrote about above:
Longer and narrower means faster driving. Shorter and wider - slower and more maneuverable.
Side cutout
This indicator regulates the turning radius. If you are just learning to ride and choose a leisurely descent, then the radius should be no more than 14 centimeters, but if you already have some experience behind you, then feel free to increase it to 20 centimeters.
Adjusting for snow conditions
The harder the snow, the better to take longer and narrower freeride skis so that they show stability and do not “goat” on bumps.
The better the snow, the softer it is, then you can take it shorter and wider in order to plan better on it.
These are, in principle, all the main characteristics that are worth considering when choosing freeride skis. Then we dive “inside” the concept and begin to select the manufacturer, certain models, colors, and so on.
Ski design does not fade into the background. Remember that the equipment should suit you in all respects. It is not at all necessary to sacrifice the aesthetic component - there are hundreds of models on the sports market, the main thing is to find “your own”, which will suit your boots.
How much do they cost and which manufacturers' models should I buy?
Today, freeride skis are manufactured by dozens of global companies. Each manufacturer tries to surprise a potential buyer and provides a wide range (on average twenty models of the same type).
Russians most often give preference to European brands that have been known for a long time: Salomon, Atomic, Volkl.
There are two undoubted leaders in the premium segment: Fischer and Rossignol. Not everyone can afford them, because prices for pairs of them can reach up to 1500-2000 dollars. For those who are not ready to invest so much in a hobby, there are also budget options - $200-400.
Atomic Backland alpine skis with camber and Powder rocker. The radius of the side cutout is 117 cm. The cost is 42 thousand rubles.
As a rule, the cost depends not only on the brand, but also on the year of manufacture. The newest models are expensive, but over time they all lose their place in the top, and with it their value.
As you may have noticed earlier, almost all the nuances of choice are based on a correct assessment of your own abilities and capabilities. Riding will be safe and enjoyable if you take into account your level of training and listen to the advice of people who have been freeriding for a long time.
- Keep up with the times and monitor the market as often as possible. Technologies do not stand still, so every year new shapes and materials appear, skis are modified;
- The feeling of flight will be given by a reverse deflection - rocker. Skis with rocker do not sink in the snow, are easy to control and give owners an incomparable feeling of surfing on virgin snow.
- You can also ski in the spring if you prefer skis with a pronounced sidecut radius. They will not get stuck in wet snow and will pass over almost any surface.
We all often try to avoid intrusive consultants in stores, but when choosing sports equipment we should give preference to them over advice from the Internet.
Remember that skis on a mountain slope are your main tool, on which the comfort and safety of the descent will depend. Without a quality pair, you will not master freeride and will not begin to enjoy riding!
Freeride (from the English freeride - “free riding, skating”) is one of the styles of the most magnificent winter hobby, namely. It is believed that it is freeride skiing on off-piste mountain terrain and untouched snow that reveals the full potential of skiing. Of course, freeride is not the place for skiing beginners, as it is often accompanied by various dangers (from avalanches to the elementary loss of the route in space). When preparing to master the freerider style of riding, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to choosing the terrain, planning the route, and scouting the climate and weather conditions. The only thing left to do is to choose the right skis for freeride.
Before skiing, it is necessary not only to plan the route, but also to choose the right skis
In this article you will learn what criteria you should use to choose freeride skis among the rich modern assortment.
Types of freeride skiing
Before you begin, you need to figure out what exactly you have to deal with, or rather, what type of freeride you are going to do.
- Freeride light, or lightweight, is a type of skiing on loose snow (powder), outside of ready-made ski slopes. People are taken to the top of the mountain using lifts, then there is a free ride down the mountain along selected untouched terrain. It is worth noting that this type of entertainment is relatively budget-friendly.
- Catskiing is the process of transporting skiers to snowy mountain peaks using a special vehicle, famous for its absolute cross-country ability, called a “snowcat” (which immediately affects the cost of this type of skiing). After this, freeriders carry out an off-piste free descent from the mountain.
- Backcountry, or ski touring, is another type of freeride accessible on a budget. In this case, the ascent to the top of the mountain is carried out by a comfortable ascent by freeriders on skis to the selected end point of the route. This is followed by a free descent.
- Snowboarding is perhaps one of the most fun types of freeride. Here, alpine skiing becomes only an auxiliary element of skiing. The main part of the process is taken over by a mountain bike, ATV or snowmobile, to which they are attached using special freerider equipment. This is how snow skiing is achieved, reminiscent of water skiing.
The types of freeride skiing described above are only the basic and most common variations of skiing, which even a beginner or amateur can initially become familiar with after deciding to master this style.
Selection of ski equipment
So, if you have already decided on the route and type of freeride, then it’s time to choose freeride skis. Please note that your level of training and skiing skills are important here.
Alpine skiing is divided into several categories and types according to different criteria.
Ski categories
First of all, the selection of a category depends on the professionalism and personal physical data of the skier.
Here we can distinguish the following categories of skis:
- for beginners;
- for advanced amateur skiers;
- for professional sport skiing.
Without a doubt, a consultant at any sports store will help you make this initial choice. Next, you should take into account the age and constitution of the skier. The gender of the athlete is also important.
Age and gender differences in alpine skiing
There is an age limit for ski equipment. Based on this, shells are divided into the following types:
- adults;
- junior (teenage);
- children's.
In turn, adult and children's equipment from the category for beginners can also be divided by gender:
- men's;
- women's
They all differ in softness or hardness, sensitivity to the snow surface and the geometry of the ski structure, which will be able to ensure safe descent in difficult conditions (ice cover, avalanche). We'll talk more about this later.
Alpine skis for freeride style
The main feature of freeride devices lies in their design: they have a fairly wide middle part of the projectiles (up to 11 cm) and a short length relative to their owner.
Professional riders advise focusing on your height: ski boards placed vertically should be slightly (2–3 cm) higher than a person.
Freeride skis should, of course, be comfortable for any maneuvering, taking into account the possibility of skiing both on loose snow (powder) and on hard icy surfaces.
It should be understood that professional sports ski equipment is characterized by the rigidity of the board when pressed, which means that only a person of a certain weight category can own such skis. The athlete will undoubtedly select this category of equipment based on the recommendations of his coach and the type of descent (ski cross, slalom, freestyle, etc.).
But there are also universal products.
Universal mountain equipment is more flexible to learn by both amateur skiers and beginners. They will allow you to ride both on a prepared track and on a steep, unbroken mountain slope.
Size and length of skis for amateur freeride
Typically, equipment for any freeride descent differs in its length and width, which consists of different parameters of the front, middle and rear parts of the projectile. Also, when choosing ski equipment, the radius of the side cutout of the projectile is taken into account. For example, wide alpine skis are suitable for soft powder slopes. For hard mountain slopes, you should choose narrower devices (with an average “waist”) that will allow the skier to easily ride even on a bumpy track.
The usual average width of all-mountain skis for amateur riders varies from 6 cm to 8 cm. Such equipment should not be long. They are often 5–10 cm shorter than their owner. This length provides a safe descent for beginners, as it is relatively easy to control and maneuver.
Alpine ski design
By design, ski equipment is divided into three main categories:
- sandwich;
- box
Sandwich is a ski design that consists of multi-layer filling of the device with various materials. Each layer of such filling is responsible for its function. As a rule, the top and bottom layers are responsible for ensuring the rigidity of the projectile.
A cap is a design option that also consists of several layers of different composition, but, unlike the first option, the “foundation” of the cap is the upper hard layer, to which all subsequent forming layers of the ski equipment are attached.
The box is a structure with a “core”, which is enveloped with the necessary material over its entire surface, which, in turn, provides torsional rigidity of the ski board for good grip on any route and smooth control.
To complete the picture, it would be useful to listen to freeride style professionals. Most often these are guides and rescuers who are trained and have the most sophisticated and dexterous professional ski skills.
- A ski width of 10 cm for freeride is more than enough at any level of skiing. Suitable for skiing on both hard surfaces and soft powdery snow.
- You should always keep up with the times and listen to new sports trends. In this case, we are talking about purchasing ski equipment with Rocker technology. These skis are much faster and lighter at lower speeds, allowing you to master powder skiing techniques without sacrificing skiing on hard surfaces. Thus, when skiing with a rocker, you can safely alternate skiing terrain, which is perfect for both beginners and more advanced freeride lovers. For daily free skiing, skis with double-sided rocker are suitable.
- It is worth noting that hard skis with a straight tail are suitable for ski touring. Ski touring fastenings often make skis heavier and reduce the sensitivity of their control; this should be remembered by skiers with a low weight category, and should also be taken into account when choosing equipment for women and children.
- When skiing on powder, it is advisable to purchase shells with reverse deflection. This will create a feeling of flight and “snow surfing”. Skis with such a camber do not sink in the snow and are easy to control.
- Spring skiing will be provided by lightly modeled skis with pronounced carving like a twin-tip. Such skis will not get stuck in dense wet snow and will provide good cross-country ability, taking into account spring weather conditions.
That's all the initial knowledge about the features of freeride skis that should be taken into account when purchasing ski equipment. All that remains is to choose the design and color scheme of your equipment, and go ahead to master the freeride style.
Before you look at specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.
How to choose alpine skis for the intended purpose
Carving or piste skis (Carving)
Dynastar carving skis. evo.comThese skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes; they allow you to easily take sharp turns and ride using a carving technique - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with the help of which turns are made).
Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and allow for poor technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.
What to buy
Skis for professional racing (Racing)
Salomon racing skis. evo.com These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.
What to buy
All-mountain skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)
Armada all-mountain skis. evo.com These skis are suitable for skiing on compacted slopes, and for freeride on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.
What to buy
Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)
Salomon freeride skis. evo.com These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep fluffy virgin soil, and also allows you to jump off cliffs without compromising your health.
What to buy
Park skis, freestyle (Park & Pipe, Freestyle)
Moment park skis. evo.com These are skis designed for acrobatics and ski jumping in special parks, and for passing mogul tracks.
Often park skis are Twin-tip models with equally curved tip and tail. In such skis, a freestyler can land comfortably after a jump with both his back and face.
What to buy
Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can begin to select a specific pair. In this case, you need to take into account several parameters: length, rigidity and radius of the side cutout.
We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need recommendations. It’s better to focus on choosing equipment for beginners and advanced ones.
Alpine ski parameters
Length
The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.
- Carving, freestyle. To select the height of carving or park skis, subtract 5–10 cm from your height.
- Freeride. If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height. If wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
- Universal. If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If the waist is more than 85 mm, the appropriate length will be from -5 to +5 cm to your height.
Rigidity
Stiff skis allow you to develop high speeds without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard skis, you need good technique.
Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than all-mountain skis. Due to this, the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed is compensated. If there is a lack of rigidity, you will not be able to make a clear turn: the skis will slip sideways.
The more weight, the stiffer the skis are needed to support it.
For beginners and amateurs, it will be more convenient to ride soft skis, such as all-mountain skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing it is preferable to choose soft ones.
As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated in the product card or on the ski tag.
Side cut radius
The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc along which your skis will travel.
Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom courses have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows you to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with ratings of 17–25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to develop high speed.
There are also medium-radius skis with performance from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis have better control when turning and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather tight, crowded slopes.
The radius of all-purpose skis is from 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.
Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. Such models are best chosen by trained skiers.
Alpine ski designs
Now there are three main designs of alpine skis and many mixed options.
The core of such skis, as a rule, consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with a mesh of carbon or fiberglass.
The core is covered on the sides with plastic walls, on top with a decorative strip, and on the bottom with a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.
Unlike Sandwich, these skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is covered by one monolithic structure that extends to the edges.
Cap provides less weight and greater torsional rigidity of the ski, which, in turn, increases its handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.
Monocoque (monocoque)
This is a development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which the sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.
Skis made using Monocoque technology have high torsional rigidity and low weight, which ensures stability when turning and less sensitivity to uneven terrain.
In addition to these three designs, there are a large number of mixed options. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made using one technology, and the ends - using another.
Alpine ski materials
Alpine ski cores are made from lightweight wood, simple foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.
Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good ski control and uniform elasticity along the entire length.
In cheaper skis you can find foam cores. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide as much stability and elasticity as wood, but it weighs less.
Foam core. backcountry.com The next layer is a core braid made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski largely depends on it. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and fibers of other materials in combination with epoxy resin. To increase rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.
Combined materials are also used in the production of sliding surfaces. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite helps reduce electrostatic charge, which causes small ice crystals and dirt to stick to the sliding surface, and polyethylene provides better preservation of the ointment on the surface.
How to choose ski bindings
The choice of fasteners depends on several parameters.
1. Fastening standard. There are several fastening standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:
- Alpine Mounts. Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most piste boots.
- Frame mounts. In such mounts, the front and rear parts are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
- WTR (Walk to Ride). Developed by Salomon. Mounts for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a tread for comfortable walking.
- MNC (Multi Norm Compatible). These bindings will fit any sole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.
2. Elasticity of fastening. This is the maximum force at which the fastening will not come loose, but will return the boot to its place.
Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will come unfastened.
Freeride bindings are more flexible because they experience more stress when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. In order for the freeride binding to come off, the boot must move to the side by 2.5–3 cm.
3. Ski stop width. Ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski comes unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the fasteners.
The waist (the narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put the binding on your ski.
If the ski stop bracket is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.
4. Features of fastening to the ski. Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.
- With screws. This is the most reliable installation method. Cons: You won't be able to use multiple skis with one binding. In addition, the screws slightly disturb the structure of the skis, so if you want to change the bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
- On a platform with holes. Some ski models have a platform for bindings. In this case, it is better to buy fastenings from the same manufacturer: the holes in the platform will coincide with the fastenings and you will not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
- On a platform without holes. If a platform without holes is attached to the ski, any fastenings will fit to it, since you will make the holes yourself.
- On a platform with guides. For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the guides, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can easily be changed to fit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people ski on the same skis.
How to choose poles
1. Material. Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing aluminum models, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an alloy indication. The higher the number, the more rigid and durable the alloy.
Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a pole made of composite materials with a sharp ski edge, it will quickly break under load.
2. Shape. Poles for normal skating are straight. For high-speed descents, such as giant slalom, they are curved. This shape allows athletes to move the pole rings behind their backs during descent, increasing aerodynamics.
the-raceplace.com 3. Ring size and shape. The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to prevent the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large guides to ensure the pole has a good grip on soft, fluffy snow. The poles for piste skating are equipped with small rings that will not interfere or cling to your boots while skating.
Some manufacturers make poles with interchangeable rings for different riding conditions.
4. Stick length. This is the most important indicator.
To find the ideal length, turn the stick over and grab it under the ring. If in this position a right angle is formed between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is suitable for you. Some experts advise adding 5–7 cm to this length to take into account the stick’s immersion in the snow.
Before choosing your poles, put on your ski boots: they will add a few centimeters to your height.
As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not recommended to wear it. When you fall, the ski bindings will automatically release your boots, but you're unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you may well choose poles without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.
What to buy
Ski boot parameters
To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will look at how to choose boots depending on your skiing style.
Rigidity
This characteristic indicates how much effort needs to be applied to change the angle of the boot shaft. The stiffer the boot, the better the forces of your muscles are transferred to the skis.
Soft boots absorb stress due to the bending of the shaft. As a result, ski control decreases.
The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to control your skis.
However, hard boots have a drawback: while skiing, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy boots that are too hard.
Sole type
ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sports) have soles of this standard.
ISO 5355 outsole. ebay.com Touring (ISO 9523). The standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with conventional bindings.
Touring standard sole. gearinstitute.com WTR (Walk to Ride)- This is a standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some models of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.
WTR standard sole. lugaresdenieve.com Pad width
Last width is the distance between the walls of the boot at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the shoe, and you can measure your foot directly in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.
There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.
Remember: if you wear boots that are too wide, you will not be able to secure your feet well, so it will be difficult for you to control your skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on the numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.
Thermoforming
This is the boot's ability to mold to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.
Inner boot made of thermoformable material. backcountry.com In some boots, only the problem areas can be molded; in others, the entire surface of the boot is molded.
If your boots are marked Auto Fit, they are thermoformed as they are worn by the heat of your feet. A few days of riding is enough for boots with auto-forming to adapt to your characteristics.
Before buying boots, walk around the store in them for 10 minutes. This way you will understand whether your boots are tight or not, whether they need thermoforming or whether you should try on others.
Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot molded using a special hairdryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the boot fits, but is a little tight in some place.
First, the boot is heated with a hairdryer for about 10–15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.
Insulation
Ski boots are insulated using down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as 3M Thinsulate hydrophobic insulation.
Unlike natural materials, synthetic ones have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't be riding in sweat-soaked socks. At the same time, they should also be made of synthetic material: cotton and wool are better left for other purposes.
How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose
evo.com These boots are suitable for you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for fun. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and go beyond the boundaries of the track to ride on untouched snow.
Boots for carving come in different stiffnesses. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.
When choosing boots, do not look for softness and comfort: you will be comfortable in the store, but on the track, when the skis handle poorly, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.
The sole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.
We continue to talk about equipment and the second interviewee is Albert Baidaev (professional freerider, multiple winner of freeride competitions, guide, rescuer).
BM: How do you choose freeride skis? And first answer as if this were your only couple, and then how you would like it to be ideally.
AB: In general, I only have 2 pairs of skis. One is the main one, which I ride most of the time, and the other is for ski touring, which I use less actively. Therefore, willy-nilly, I choose a universal ski so that it is comfortable to ride on both virgin and hard snow. Therefore, it should not be a soft ski that will wobble on all uneven surfaces, but also not too hard, because to push a hard ski you need a lot of weight or high speed, which you cannot develop in places where you need to go in small turns. For example, in narrow couloirs (unless, of course, you drive them in a straight line). Or in the forest...
I don’t really like long skis; with a height of 172 and a weight of 70 kg, I prefer to take a ski from 181 to 185 cm. On such a ski you can accelerate well and maneuver comfortably.
As for the width, I’ll say that 100 mm is enough to ski on both powder and tin; a universal ski should not be too wide, because on a hard slope you will have to put more effort into turning. And yet, I think you need to keep up with the times and buy a ski with a rocker, as it provides good floatation of the skis from deep snow. True, on hard skis, due to the shorter contact length, skis with rocker hold the arc worse, but you quickly adapt to this (if the ski is good, of course;)).
A few words about fastening. Nowadays, many who like to ski not only with the help of a lift, but also to hike in wilder places, for greater versatility, put ski touring mounts, such as the Salomon Guardian, on their only pair of skis.
Still, for ski touring, I preferred to assemble a separate lightweight kit for myself, because such ski touring fasteners make the ski very heavy and I don’t like the platform because you stand higher from the ski and therefore feel it worse.
I attach fasteners to my everyday skis Vist v614 with adjustment range 6-14 (58-130kg).
And now I’ll dream that I have as many pairs as my heart desires and, since I ski for the Icelantic ski brand, I’ll tell you about the skis I ski and about those models in the line that I’m missing.)))
For daily riding:
For powder:
I would take the Icelantic Gypsy 180 cm, with reverse deflection. If you could describe the feeling of skiing in one word, it would be “power.” On the pauper you feel like a surfer. You don’t have to be afraid to crush one leg and “drown” because of this, you just stand there and do whatever you want. She's super bouncy, like a spring. When you jump from an upward-facing relief, you feel as if someone gave you a kick to take off))). Some people may think the 180 size is a little short, but no, the Gypsy has such a geometry of 152x125x148 that you don’t sink in the snow and the ski is well controlled.
Note: Since 2016, the Gypsy model has become known as the Nomad RKR 125.
For ski touring:
I’m a guide and therefore I walk a lot uphill, so that I can then have a great time going down the wild slopes). If the terrain allows, then you go on skis, but if it’s too steep or hard, then you carry the skis on your back - for a ski tourer the weight of the equipment is very important.
Therefore, I use the Icelantic VANGUARD 107 model, size 178 cm. This is a lightweight ski model, created specifically for those who like to wander around the mountains. A pair of skis weighs only 3,200! Moreover, this is a normal, strong ski with a real wooden core. No foam, which is what big factories like to stuff into skis. Manufacturers are so confident in the quality of their products that they give them a three-year guarantee.
The ski is quite rigid, the geometry is more classic than that of the Nomads. Those are a normal classic deflection and a flat tail. Front rocker. 
Due to the fact that lightweight ski touring boots are still softer than usual ones, the skier often sits on the fifth point, but since the Icelantic Vanguard skis have a flat tail, this effect is somewhat compensated for. In addition, the ski does not jump out from under you.
Camber (camber) is classic, rigidity is above average, which allows the ski to firmly cling to the slope and maintain an arc even on the ice fields of Elbrus (this often happens in the spring, especially when descending from the peak).
But there is still rocker at the front, which allows the ski to float in the snow.
The weight of the ski is, of course, very important for me, but the priority is still the descent, and therefore, of the two Icelantic ski touring models, I took the wider one, with a 107 waist, and have never regretted it!
For spring:
For spring skiing, I would take the Icelantic Pilgrim 179cm with a 90mm waist. This is a lightweight ski with pronounced carving properties. In spring the snow is heavy, wet and dense. It sticks to a wide ski and it becomes difficult to ski, you get tired, so you need a lighter model. And sometimes you want to rush along the slope and feel the control that a carving ski gives. In addition, Piligrim is a twin type, so you can spin on it.
Now let's summarize...
VM: Favorite length?
AB: My favorite length is 181 cm with a width of 105 mm, but as advice to everyone, when choosing a ski for freeride, you need to take into account height and weight, on average, a universal ski is height + 7 +10, if the weight is heavy, then you can take a longer and stiffer ski.
VM: Favorite width?
AB: 100-110mm.
VM: Rigidity?
AB: Above average
VM: Geometry?
AB: If for everyday use, then with a double-sided rocker; for ski touring, with a front rocker and a flat tail.
VM: Is design important to you?
AB: Yes, it is desirable that it is not stressful. I don’t like skulls, if I suddenly get a ski like this I always try to cover them up. I don't like any evil mystical creatures. But I like it when nature is depicted. Mountains, animals. Just like Icelantic.
How to help a “beginner” freerider (regardless of his prior ski training) choose his first set of equipment?
If you look at skiing Internet resources, this is perhaps one of the most discussed issues there, in terms of the number of clicks comparable only to “teach kataze correctly” and “90-60-90 is looking for a travel companion for a trip to Courche Avel.” Often these three topics are started simultaneously by one user according to the principle “I want everything now.”
I’ll say right away, having seen such a question at the beginning of the topic, I don’t read further, because almost everyone who answers will certainly talk about themselves and their “favorite” (i.e., equipment), and the criterion of objectivity is by no means the most important thing in such discussions. Therefore, I don’t know whether my advice will be any kind of revelation for those interested, but in any case I will try to make it useful.
In fact, it is quite difficult for a person with extensive experience to advise anything to a beginner; one way or another, “experience” will dominate, and personal feelings from a particular model of skis will not coincide with the feelings of not only a beginner, but even a friend with experience. There is one win-win recommendation: try it yourself first, and then buy what suits you best. In theory, this article can be ended at this point. But I’ll also mention a couple of common truths on a couple of pages.
Riding experience since 1980. Worked as a ski guide and instructor.
On the issue of waist width
I’ll try to remember myself, looking for my first skis for deep snow... Like many, I diligently studied the test results of various ski magazines and forum gurus, and as a result I liked the skis, which at that time did not cause general delight. To be precise, these were my second virgin ones - Salomon Pocket Rocket. And I chose the first ones simply based on geometry: a combination of maximum width with a minimum own turning radius. They were Kneissl (a now defunct brand) with an 80mm waist, the widest not only in the brand's collection that year, but also on the European market. We’re not talking about the North American market, where there were already models from Atomic and Volkl for heli-skiing with a width of more than 100 mm, produced, oddly enough, since the “pre-carving” times.
Everything changed quite dramatically at the beginning of the 2000s, which began among ski equipment manufacturers under the slogan “Carving for the masses, freeride for the youth!” It is interesting that, one way or another, we still live in this paradigm. The first, as always, was our “American friends” in the mass segment - the K2 company. In addition to them, at that time there were already many garage brands in the States and Canada that produced wide skis for freeride and telemark. However, it would be unfair not to mention that there was something in Europe too. So, K2 ventured into a model with a waist of about 90 mm (AK Enemy, and then Seth Pistols), since then this width has become the standard for freeride station wagons.
Skiers with good technique who love piste skiing prefer just such models - with a waist of 90-100 mm, in terms of their performance characteristics they are closer to an extended giant slalom (classic setting of bindings, a combination of camber with a front rocker, the rear one may be absent, it may have titanal in construction, with good torsional rigidity) than to virgin twin-tips with mid-mount mountings. This waist is combined with its own radius from 18 to 24 m (a larger radius requires more powerful, high-speed skating, and, accordingly, greater skill and strength). These all-rounders behave excellently on a prepared track, but due to their width they already float up in the virgin snow, it all depends on its density and the skill of the skier himself, and this is required.
Soft vs hard
But it’s unlikely that experts read such articles—they make recommendations themselves. Therefore, we will continue for those who are not yet strong in technology (but maybe don’t think of themselves that way), but are no longer averse to freeriding.
I would immediately like to warn against the common misconception that the stiffer the ski, the “sportier” it is, meaning longitudinal rigidity. In fact, “sportiness” - grip on ice is associated with high torsional rigidity, which is easier to achieve in longitudinally rigid skis, but not necessary (modern technologies help with this). Choosing a model based on rigidity is a very individual and multifactorial matter. To summarize, we highlight the following design features that are characteristic of both narrow and wide skis:
- The hard middle in models with camber provides better grip on ice: the longer this part, the higher the speed you can stably (without edge breaks) make carved turns.
- The soft front part (let's call it the tip of the ski, although the tip itself is much shorter than what we mean by this name - the front third or quarter of the ski) makes it easier to enter the turn, but is demanding on “longitudinal” work - pendulum transfer of the skier’s weight along the length of the ski in the turn. Loading your socks too quickly can cause the ski to kick up and send you flying over your head.
- A hard heel (again: not the heel itself, but, on average, the last quarter of the length), provides protection on landings, but is demanding on technique: if you “stay too long” in a turn, you’re already rushing straight down. In such a situation, a soft heel can simply take you across the slope, but if you make an error in landing, it can put you on your back. And how can we objectively judge what is soft and what is hard? Sometimes you can hear directly opposite opinions about the same model, although meticulous American guys conduct stiffness tests by loading the ski with a standard weight and measuring the change in deflection.
Rostovka
Perhaps only one indicator is not controversial - the area of the sliding surface of the ski. Absolute objectivity, neither add nor subtract, unless broken. It is clear that skis with a larger surface float up easier, i.e. at a lower speed. And then the brain of the novice freerider begins to smoke from tension. Logic advises taking wider skis, but the timid subconscious calls for caution: “You won’t be able to cope with skis that are 40 or even more millimeters wider than your usual ones!” I'll tell you a story. A man who didn’t know how to ski at all went heli-skiing with his friends. Well, he became bored, and maybe it was a shame to sit alone in a helicopter, waiting for others. I decided to try... And I went. Technically, it may be incorrect, but here we go. Because wide skis in virgin snow travel almost the same as narrow skis on a snow groomer. What you should be afraid of is, rather, not the width, but the excessive length, especially when forum gurus talk about “...wet and straighten and short skis sucks!”
Yes, the length gives advantages on moves, speed stability, but what to do if the technology is not yet enough and “turning with your feet” is an unfamiliar phrase, and in front of you is not glacial fields of an average slope, but a forest or a narrow couloir, the snow is wet, or even broken . There is only one answer: take skis at height or a little higher. Over the years, I and many of my good skating friends (interestingly, of different heights and weights) came to a decision: no longer than 186 cm! This length optimally combines stability and agility. Although the fashion for two-meter sleepers has not bypassed us.
Ski turning radius
Let's talk about the ski's own turning radius (SRP). For those who don't know what this means, I'll explain. If you extend the cut line of the ski (along the edge), then sooner or later it will close into a circle, the radius of which is indicated on each ski. Such a geometric action is only possible if the cutout has one radius (mono-radius) - this is what most ride skis have (we all have them), it ensures calculated arc control.
Multiradius
But there is also a multi-radius, for example, double, like models with V-shape (we don’t have such skis this season). V-shaped, the toe is wider than the heel, a smaller radius on the toe makes it easier to enter the arc, and a larger radius on the heel makes it easy to complete it; in addition, this shape ensures that the toe “automatically” floats up (and the narrow heel sinks). Scott in some of its models (for example, Scrapper) uses a different radius distribution: very large in the middle third and smaller at the ends (the ability to shorten the turn with active longitudinal work).
Skis with a radius of up to 20 m
The intended purpose of short-radius (up to 20 m PSA) models is backcountry-freestyle. Most popular among novice riders due to ease of use in virgin snow, they cut clearly on hard snow with a short central part, and fairly long ends with a rocker are included in work in deep snow, stable at speeds from low to medium.
Skis with a radius of more than 20 m
And the third group of skis, which I briefly mentioned at the beginning of the article, is with a PSA of more than 20 m. Quite rigid longitudinally, the rear rocker is absent or not pronounced, with a waist from 100 to 115 mm. Will be of interest to powerful riders in a wide variety of conditions. By the way, it is precisely these models that are duplicated by manufacturers in a lightweight version for fans of freeride/ski touring.
A couple of notes on the combination of ski shape with camber and rocker. The most characteristic thing is that the weight deflection (camber) in the middle part coincides with the cutout (the part of the ski from the section with the maximum width in the front part to the similar one in the rear; behind these sections the rockers begin - the rises of the toe and heel). To reduce the inertia of the tips (many people don’t like the way they “dangle” in a flat ski when the skis are slightly edged), manufacturers use various technological innovations designed to reduce the weight and area of these parts of the ski. Some brands produce full-rocker (camber on the contrary) models for pure virgin skiing. Their advantages in deep snow are obvious, but on hard snow they are more demanding on the skier’s technique (longitudinal balance).
Thus, having assessed your physical and technical capabilities (or their shortcomings), you can approximately understand what shape, size and stiffness your first skis should be; it is important, of course, to understand in what conditions you will be skiing. Many people are mistaken in thinking that they can find a universal one for all occasions in the mountains, and beginners also want to do it the first time. Blessed is he who believes.
Our top 10 skis for beginners in freeride
A selection of skis this season. Some are already in stores and online, others are on the way and will be available soon.
